l75eya Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 So I've got my oil pump, and I've got some time, I think I'm going to tackle this T.O.D. once and for all (hopefully) From what I understand, a quick rundown of the steps -Remove fans/radiator (which I intend to flush out with new coolant while I'm at it) -Get everything out of my way (A/c, alt, belts, etc) -Remove crank pulley -Timing belt covers -timing belts coming off -swap out oil pumps -reverse process. Just bracing myself mentally here folks haha The one question I had; my oil pump came with three seals The mickey mouse seal and the oil pump shaft seal pictured here: and here But I also have this small black hard rubber or plastic thing which I'm not quite sure what it's for.... Can anybody shed some light on where this thing goes? I mean if it's necessary I'm sure I'd come across it while doing the job, but for peace of mind, I'd like to know in advance, and are these all the necessary seals? Just those three? Thanks guys and wish me luck lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maozebong Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 that seal should be the radial shaft seal for the oil pump. you have to remove the pulley to see it. when resealing the pump you replace the shaft seal, the mickey mouse gasket, and the o-ring right below the gerotor gear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted December 20, 2011 Author Share Posted December 20, 2011 Thanks! Just checked that out and I was confused because when the pump was shipped to me it was shipped with no seals of anykind, after I contacted the seller about that, he sent me seals seperately, which are the three I mentioned. Turns out that the pump itself has the pulley installed already with that shaft seal in place. I could see it through the little hole in the pulley, so good to know I have everything I need. Now to get a breaker bar and then start tearing into the car. Thanks for the insight! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted December 22, 2011 Author Share Posted December 22, 2011 *Update* Seem to be going smooth so far, got the radiator and a/c condensor out so I have some room, haven't gotten the fan off yet, I think the last guy that worked on the car (timing belts) used loc-tite or something on the threads, those bolts are hard enough to get to, and they're not budging. Not to mention the flat spot on the shaft of the fan to grab onto seems to be not very flat. Was a lot easier getting this part done on my GL. Next step it seems is to get the a/c compressor up and out of the way. One thing I'm concerned about a bit, is the crank pulley...would you guys say that the hardest part is getting the bolt off, or is it really necessary to have a gear puller to get the pulley off even after taking the bolt out? Or is it a hit or miss kinda thing, sometimes it comes off, sometimes it doesn't'? Never done that before so it's got me a little concerned. And the key thing, dunno what's up with that but I figure i'll just figure it out when I see it. Either way, back to it tomorrow, hopefully I can make some good progress (and get that damn fan off!) Cheers:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zukiru Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 With the fan... Get out a second 10 mm wrench and hold the fan still with one of the other bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maozebong Posted December 23, 2011 Share Posted December 23, 2011 *Update* Seem to be going smooth so far, got the radiator and a/c condensor out so I have some room, haven't gotten the fan off yet, I think the last guy that worked on the car (timing belts) used loc-tite or something on the threads, those bolts are hard enough to get to, and they're not budging. Not to mention the flat spot on the shaft of the fan to grab onto seems to be not very flat. Was a lot easier getting this part done on my GL. Next step it seems is to get the a/c compressor up and out of the way. One thing I'm concerned about a bit, is the crank pulley...would you guys say that the hardest part is getting the bolt off, or is it really necessary to have a gear puller to get the pulley off even after taking the bolt out? Or is it a hit or miss kinda thing, sometimes it comes off, sometimes it doesn't'? Never done that before so it's got me a little concerned. And the key thing, dunno what's up with that but I figure i'll just figure it out when I see it. Either way, back to it tomorrow, hopefully I can make some good progress (and get that damn fan off!) Cheers:) you don't really need to remove the radiator and condenser, unless you are prone to clumsy mistakes. i do this stuff for a living so it comes naturally to me. use channel lock pliers to hold the fan shaft if an adjustable wrench can't hold it. the crank pulley bolt comes right off if you put a breaker bar (and a piece of pipe if yours is too short) on it and butt the handle up on top of the drivers side frame rail and then bump the starter. no hassle at all. pulley should come right off, if not with a light tap of a small hammer or wrench. it took me 4 hours to do it total on my first time, with removing the timing covers (i left mine off, so have many others), replacing belts, cam seals, front crank seal, and oil pump reseal. but, like i said, i do this for a living and jobs like these are easy for me to bust out real quick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted December 23, 2011 Share Posted December 23, 2011 the crank pulley bolt comes right off if you put a breaker bar (and a piece of pipe if yours is too short) on it and butt the handle up on top of the drivers side frame rail and then bump the starter. no hassle at all. be sure to disable the ignition/coil/igniter first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zukiru Posted December 23, 2011 Share Posted December 23, 2011 be sure to disable the ignition/coil/igniter first. I never have. it's literally just a bump on the starter. and that's never been enough to crank my car. even then... the bolt would unscrew and the bar would fall to the floor. anything more than that happening isn't too likely... you should have the acc. belts off at that stage anyway. so the pulley would also just fall to the floor. not saying that being safe about it isn't better. just I never bother. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted December 23, 2011 Author Share Posted December 23, 2011 Thanks for all the tips guys, I really just pull the condenser and radiator for easy access, it's not really a pain to take them out if you don't care about losing your A/C charge. I didn't even have to use the starter bump trick, I just threw a 4 foot long piece of pvc pipe over my breaker bar, put a wrench on the bolt on the torque converter, and the crank bolt came right off Jobs all done now, and NO MORE TICK OF DEATH!!! Thank you to everybody who has assured me a pump re-seal will do the trick 99 percent of the time, it did for mine. I did however just go the next step and replace the pump, but THE TICK IS GONE!!!! I couldn't be more over-joyed Pictures to come because nobody cares but I like to put pictures up so there! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted December 24, 2011 Share Posted December 24, 2011 we do care to see pictures. pleas post them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
man on the moon Posted December 24, 2011 Share Posted December 24, 2011 Pictures! I need to do this when it's not a foot of snow or 4 degrees out. (It seems to be one or the other here, cold and dry or warm and wet). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted December 25, 2011 Author Share Posted December 25, 2011 Pictures! I need to do this when it's not a foot of snow or 4 degrees out. (It seems to be one or the other here, cold and dry or warm and wet). Will be posting pictures as soon as I find the memory card I took the pictures on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted December 28, 2011 Author Share Posted December 28, 2011 (edited) Okay, got some pictures. Didn't shoot too many as I was just trying to get the job done, but it's all pretty straightforward. I'm going to write up a brief guide to this and post the pictures in a new thread to be linked here as well when done. Write up and pictures can be found here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=1068742#post1068742 Edited December 28, 2011 by l75eya link added Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skylar Posted April 26, 2012 Share Posted April 26, 2012 So I've got my oil pump, and I've got some time, I think I'm going to tackle this T.O.D. once and for all (hopefully)From what I understand, a quick rundown of the steps -Remove fans/radiator (which I intend to flush out with new coolant while I'm at it) -Get everything out of my way (A/c, alt, belts, etc) -Remove crank pulley -Timing belt covers -timing belts coming off -swap out oil pumps -reverse process. Just bracing myself mentally here folks haha The one question I had; my oil pump came with three seals The mickey mouse seal and the oil pump shaft seal pictured here: and here But I also have this small black hard rubber or plastic thing which I'm not quite sure what it's for.... Can anybody shed some light on where this thing goes? I mean if it's necessary I'm sure I'd come across it while doing the job, but for peace of mind, I'd like to know in advance, and are these all the necessary seals? Just those three? Thanks guys and wish me luck lol Sorry to open up an older post but i just pulled my oil pump off to put on the new MM gasket and the other seal . I want to replace the the shaft seal thats behind the pump pulley, but i have cant figure out how to get the pulley off lol How do I get the pulley off to replace the seal ? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skylar Posted April 26, 2012 Share Posted April 26, 2012 Nevermind im an idiot and the shaft was just a little rusty and stuck in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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