GeneralDisorder Posted December 23, 2011 Share Posted December 23, 2011 they were $800? it's hard to buy an outstanding $800 car that's going to get a raving review and they're rarely a good fit for someone that's basically buying the cheapest car that moves. i know you know all this rick...not saying it's not possible or I haven't done it but i wouldn't suggest it's common and what everyone buying $800 cars should expect. Sorry I should have been more clear - I was just saying that if the seller has nothing to hide and has listed what's wrong with the car to the best of their knowledge (and thus why it's worth $800) then they shouldn't have a problem with someone having it inspected. If I sell something as-is and list what problems it has then I would expect an inspecting mechanic to find at least those problems and possibly anything I had missed (which hopefully I haven't but with an as-is type of sale it's possible even if unlikely). GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarulegacy Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 A little update on the car- I went out of town for a week (not driving the subaru!) but i put some more in it right before I left. When I came back, it still had most of the oil. I put some of that stop leak in it just to see what that will do. So the oil leak isn't as bad as i thought. I went back to the mechanic to see what he said about the exhuast leak coming back. As soon as I described what happened he immediatly knew what car I had. "Oh ya, you have that one car with all the problems" lol. He said that the car has a problem with the headers. Something about there is no gasket there, so he put the exhuast seal glue on it. Also since this is also caused by the previous owner messing stuff up, there is a good chance that if I mess with it I will end up breaking the whole thing and have to take it to a machine shop. He said that he cant even tighten the bolts on it. So. . . the car is at least running pretty reliably now. Any advice on what I should do about the exhaust? I am trying to do as much work as I can myself. I am hoping to kind of "restore" it to the point that I could sell it for the "fair" kbb price of $2500. That is, if I don't decide to keep it once I get all this fixed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danbennett2u Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 You will never get 2500 for a "fair" condition 96 legacy with 260k miles on it. KBB estimates are for dealers for the most part and are extremely inflated. Look for similar cars on your local craigslist to get an idea of the value, or even Edmunds TMV is closer to what they are really worth then KBB. If the header is that messed up maybe just replace it with a junkyard one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danbennett2u Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 on a side note how the heck was "subarulegacy" not already taken as a username on a subaru forum that has been around for years lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 (edited) So it sounds like maybe it is driveable now? What you are describing about hoping to fix up the car and sell it for 2500 is called flipping cars. Some people do it profitably but it seems like a tricky business. You may find someone who will pay that for it, but it may take time. And right on, if similar vehicles sell for less on craigslist (i.e. you got one for 800 right?) then it is going to be hard to sell something similar for much more. Usually to flip cars you want to find something simple wrong with the car but that makes it not driveable, such as a broken timing belt (on non-interference anyway), pay nothing more than salvage value say $200 or $300. Sometimes the seller doesn't know they could get a couple hundred from a scrap yard for it so they will sell it for even less. If you get the car so that it is driveable, why would you not want to just keep it and drive it? Edited January 4, 2012 by porcupine73 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 (edited) your mechanic should know what a helicoil and exhaust stud is to repair it properly. I'm sure he is uded to iron blocks in old pickup trucks, but not subarus with aluminum engines. flipping cars is only profitable if you get the cars for about scrap price, already have a fleet of spare parts, and do all the work yourself. like i stated before, never expect to recover repair costs by selling a vehicke. If you put 500 bucks into a car that is valued at 1000 bucks, it is still only worth 1000 bucks. Sell it as is and break as even as possilbe, or enjoy the car for yourself after all that effort. also, find a different mechanic, or stick to some old GM car. A little update on the car- I went out of town for a week (not driving the subaru!) but i put some more in it right before I left. When I came back, it still had most of the oil. I put some of that stop leak in it just to see what that will do. So the oil leak isn't as bad as i thought. I went back to the mechanic to see what he said about the exhuast leak coming back. As soon as I described what happened he immediatly knew what car I had. "Oh ya, you have that one car with all the problems" lol. He said that the car has a problem with the headers. Something about there is no gasket there, so he put the exhuast seal glue on it. Also since this is also caused by the previous owner messing stuff up, there is a good chance that if I mess with it I will end up breaking the whole thing and have to take it to a machine shop. He said that he cant even tighten the bolts on it. So. . . the car is at least running pretty reliably now. Any advice on what I should do about the exhaust? I am trying to do as much work as I can myself. I am hoping to kind of "restore" it to the point that I could sell it for the "fair" kbb price of $2500. That is, if I don't decide to keep it once I get all this fixed. Edited January 4, 2012 by MilesFox Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redcap Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 your mechanic should know what a helicoil and exhaust stud is to repair it properly. I'm sure he is uded to iron blocks in old pickup trucks, but not subarus with aluminum engines. flipping cars is only profitable if you get the cars for about scrap price, already have a fleet of spare parts, and do all the work yourself. like i stated before, never expect to recover repair costs by selling a vehicke. If you put 500 bucks into a car that is valued at 1000 bucks, it is still only worth 1000 bucks. Sell it as is and break as even as possilbe, or enjoy the car for yourself after all that effort. also, find a different mechanic, or stick to some old GM car. Couldn't have said it any better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarulegacy Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 yea. . 2500 is probably . . . hopeful. But that is for the odometer 160,000. But anywho, I don't know what to think of this mechanic. He is really fast compared to the shop I used to go to (got all the work done in 4 hours, other place couldnt even look at my car for a week). I thought it is really cool that he actually brought me into the garage and showed me what was wrong and how/ what he was going to do. But then on the other hand when the exhuast leak came back they start talking all this stuff I don't understand. Is it true you cant re-tapp aluminum? Also the guy said the head unit costs $1000. (not a chance im doing that, junk yard!) As far as the flipping cars thing goes. . . this is my third car, and ive gone through all of them with the same $1000 bucks lol. Now ive spent more than 1000 on this one, no big deal if it keeps working. The only reason I would get rid of it is to get a truck because i am looking for a better job, im a janitor now but i make alot more money doing landscaping like I used to in Oklahoma. It is kinda bad i'm on my third car and i'm only 16! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 Even if he can't 'retap it' as he calls it, helicoils still work. Sometimes when they start throwing around large dollar items, it's because the work is a pain and they don't really want to do it, esp if they have faster/higher profit jobs lined up, so they throw out some large numbers figuring you'll pass on the work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarulegacy Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 could you explain the heli-coils to me? I know what they are, but don't you still have to re-tap it first? i thought the only point of those is to have the same size thread as originally? Of course my mechanical experience is limited to auto-tech in high school and working on my car and my friends thunderbird so please help me out, i don't know much but i want to learn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 That could be, what I thought he meant by that was they he couldn't retap it to the same size, i.e. just chase up the threads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subruise Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 google it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 It is a 1986 horror novel by American author Stephen King. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 It is a 1986 horror novel by American author Stephen King. Too much!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarulegacy Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 oh ya. . .i wondered the same thing as to how i got this username:grin:. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 Don't the exhaust manifolds use studs anyway, not bolts? That wouldn't need any tapping for replacement would it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red92 Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 Don't the exhaust manifolds use studs anyway, not bolts? That wouldn't need any tapping for replacement would it? The tapping would be if you have to replace the studs due to damage to the original aluminum threads. If the nuts all come off the studs nicely, you shouldn't have to tap or replace them when changing the manifold. But since the mechanic said that they can't tighten the nuts, then either they are rusted solid (which means that the stud will probably come out if they are loosened), or they have already been tightened until the aluminum yielded and they are just spinning. As for why you would need to re-tap the aluminum: It could be that the aluminum galled up when the studs were removed, or that the nut on the exhaust had been overtightened and pulled the original aluminum threads out. It could also be that the exhaust was changed at some point, the stud came out (rusted nut, etc), the replacement stud wasn't installed deep enough when it was put back, and then (with fewer threads engaging), it stripped out when it was tightened. I've also seen aluminum heads (non-Subaru) where the exhaust studs had a thicker knurled section, so that as you screwed the stud in (the FIRST and presumably ONLY time), it would chew up the last section of the aluminum threads and lock the stud in place. When these come out, they pull that chewed up aluminum out, and you are left with an enlarged hole and fewer threads for any replacement stud to screw in to. I'm not sure if Subaru studs were designed this way... but I suppose there is always a possibility that one could have been put in after the fact. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarulegacy Posted January 5, 2012 Author Share Posted January 5, 2012 @red92 i would bet on this- It could also be that the exhaust was changed at some point, the stud came out (rusted nut, etc), the replacement stud wasn't installed deep enough when it was put back, and then (with fewer threads engaging), it stripped out when it was tightened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarulegacy Posted January 5, 2012 Author Share Posted January 5, 2012 because i know the engine has been pulled out before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 i vote for the studs being overtorqued and thus ripped out. fine threads+aluminum=Clamping force without too much torque vs coarse threads in iron block. Or--there were bolts used instead of studs that bottomed out and ripped the thread. Studs should be replaced with new. The idea is the stud is installed first. It more or less sits in the bore, and then the nut takes up all the torque for clamping force. A bolt just pulls on the threads before it can bottom out. usually the nut brings the stud out, and when reinstalled, it is essentially a bolt. you tighten up and it feels like you should go one more turn, and whoops, there goes the thread. this is why new studs should be used anytime they are available to prevent this. I helicoil can repair this if installed properly. i have been there and done this with many a soob with floppy exhausts. I once swapped heads because of stripped exhaust holes. I used a helicoil for the first time and now swear by not pissing with cheap redneck methods. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarulegacy Posted January 24, 2012 Author Share Posted January 24, 2012 So, for now I have just been driving it with the exhuast leak since thats a project, and its cold! But today I took it by Orielly's to see what the "check engine light" was all about. It said the knock sensor was going out, and 3 other things that had to do with the exhuast leak. Also, the brake light has came on, it turns on about every other time that the car is driven. I can tell something is up because if I make a sharp turn or have to slam on the brakes it makes a wierd buzzing sound. Also with the windows down you can hear a "click click click click" when you hit the brakes. And the other thing, when I was checking the check engine light I looked at the ground and there was a nice puddle of green liquid, antifreeze. Sooooo I was actually getting motivated to get this all fixed and keep the car. I am actually starting to like it. But, really, do you guys think that this car is worth fixing? Also, any idea on what the issue is on the brakes + coolant? I probably didn't give enough info on the coolant issue. . . So I kind of want to fix it up, but I would also love one of the newer legacy's. But these subaru's seem to be very expensive cars, unless you get mine lol. So at this point fixing it could cost thousands. But maybe still cheaper than a newer one? Maybe I should give into car payments. . . Ok hope that makes sense, thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red92 Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 Also, the brake light has came on, it turns on about every other time that the car is driven. I can tell something is up because if I make a sharp turn or have to slam on the brakes it makes a wierd buzzing sound. Also with the windows down you can hear a "click click click click" when you hit the brakes. Sounds like the ABS. When it buzzes, do you feel the brake pedal pulse? And more importantly, is it snowy/icy/slippery when this is happening? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarulegacy Posted January 24, 2012 Author Share Posted January 24, 2012 I can feel it pulse just during normal braking. Its not really when its buzzing. When it buzzes, the brakes pedal just feels kind of soft, or maybe im making that up in my head because im freaking out about the wierd buzzind noise lol. Actually I need to pay attention to if it buzzes at any time during a turn when I am not braking. And no, its actually not been snowy here except for once so far, but that was fun gotta love driving home in the snow on a road that runs through a swamp, water on both sides. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarl Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 All I can say is "take it easy". It's just too easy to try to tackle too much at once and be overwhelmed In my car I had to deal with two coolant leaks: the first one, right after replacing the engine, was because of a pinched o'ring on the radiator drain valve. The second one was because of a worn upper radiator hose (the sealing surface was damaged). I had to deal with a bad noise from the rear brakes, and pulsing of the pedal. It was fixed by replacing the brake pads (as cheap as you feel comfortable) and filing the shims on the calipers where the pads slide Finally, one of the exhaust studs was broken and rusted in place. I had to remove it using a cobalt dremel tip, and after doing it I had to use a helicoil (actually, a helicoil knock-off). No issues so far. I spent at most $60 fixing those three (four?) things. Some other things may be expensive, but you should make an informed decision. Don't hurry, and *DO NOT* start throwing parts at the car without diagnosing the problems first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarulegacy Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 I sure hope that I can get the brakes + leak fixed for 60! What I really need is a garage and some time. I have neither. Hopefully I can take a good look at it next weekend. (doubt it'll happen this weekend) If I had a nice garage + tools i'd just spend a weekend and just go through everything on it. Ill get around to it soon enough. I wonder where I can find a garage of some sort. . .lol thats a hard one. Anywho your right I need to make sure exactly what the problem is before I throw parts at it, it can be tempting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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