Oil Pump Replacement brief guide + just as brief pictures

[l75eya]

Got some time to tackle the Loyale's tick of death. Got a break in the weather too! 55 - 60 degrees in mid december! w00t

 

This is my first write-up, and I know it's written a bit half-assedly lol, but I figure it's a good way to psyche yourself up and prepare before taking on the job. It is a bit of a job. I'm not too experienced working this deep into engines but I did it and I'm damn proud of myself and loved the work involved.

 

Pictures are at the end of the write up.

 

 

Anyway, the method I used to do this is going to render your air conditioner completely useless, so, if you don't mind that (does it really blow that cold anymore anyway?) feel free to do this up on your own. If not, then you're going to not want to remove the A/C Condenser and are going to have to somehow work around it. I removed it and it gave me an incredibly wider range of motion/freedom of space to get things done on the engine. And so;

 

Put the car somewhere and bust out the tools and hydrations and tunes. My equipment list was

-Tool-set (Socket set + box wrenches)

-Blanket to cover ground under car

-Bucket to catch Oil

-Bucket to catch antifreeze

-aluminum can to catch power steering fluid

-18" 1/2" drive breaker bar with 22mm socket (for crank pulley)

-Big rump roast PVC pipe (about 14 inches long) to fit over breaker bar for more torque

-channel locks

- 's

-Radio

 

Prop the hood up vertical ala MilesFox by pulling your prop rod out at the base and resetting it in a hole on the pass. side strut tower. Get your grille unscrewed and pull it out of the way

 

Disconnect & remove battery + alternator

Disconnect the two plugs and remove the electric fan on the pass. side of the radiator. Be very careful not to gouge the radiator while removing this. You can try and remove the four bolts holding the driver's side fan onto the water pump pulley now too if you like. I've had it come off easy and it's cool to get it out of the way early, but if for some reason your fan bolts won't budge, just skip it and wait till later to get a better grip.

Disconnect lines and remove power steering resevoir

Start disconnecting radiator lines, I pulled the driver's side hose off the water pump feed pipe. use a bucket to catch what little coolant leaks out. Then you're good to remove the passenger side hose as well. If you have an automatic disconnect the transmission lines, there are two of them naturally, and they are small and hard to see (and a pain to pull off). Removing the two bolts that hold the radiator in can help you to move the whole radiator around and get a better grip on those trans lines.

 

As noted previously, I pulled the condenser and radiator out. To access all the bolts I had to remove the underbody panel that goes across the front of the car. I also had to then remove the hood latch and the vertical support bracket. Before removing the condenser bleed the system of all pressure by removing the black dust cap on the a/c line coming off the compressor and push in the pin to let all of the A/C charge release (into a safe container of course, so as not to hurt the atmosphere )

 

This is about a good time to take a break and enjoy some more

 

You can pull the A/C condenser out from the front of the vehicle, I got it out by angling it and pulling it down behind and under the bumper.

 

You can pull the radiator straight up and out, just be mindful of the hoses still attached to it snagging on things, and be very mindful of the water pump driven fan if you didn't take it off earlier.

 

Once all of that crap is out of the way it's time to start digging in.

Seek out all the bolts for the air conditioner/ alternator bracket and then hang the whole thing up and out of the way (see pictures)

 

remove the belt tensioners, take off both belts. Get that fan off finally (now you should have no excuse for not being able to get it to stay still and get at the bolts) It's time to tackle that crank pulley.

 

I hope it's as easy for you as it was for me as this (being inexperienced at all this of course) was the most intimidating thing to me.

 

I just popped open that little cover on the torque converter / flywheel, and found the I think 12 mm bolt on there by turning the crank. Once I found that bolt, I put the box end of a wrench on it, slowly turned the crank until it was up against the bellhousing, and then went to town with the breaker bar on the crank bolt. It took a bit of muscling, but it came loose. Using the PVC pipe on the breaker bar helped big time and I don't think it's possible to do it by hand without some extra torque like the pipe supplies.

Once the bolt was out, the pulley came right off and now it was time to get those damn timing belt covers off (for good)

 

Once you've gotten the timing belt covers off, they make decent frisbees so take a frisbee break for now if you like.

 

It's pretty straight-forward from here now, loosen (NOT REMOVE) the bolts holding the timing belt tensioners, take off the timing belts.

Now you have access to all the oil pump bolts. Remove the bolts, put a bucket underneath the engine, and pull the pump gently outward. STRAIGHT out. Now you're on your own to figure out how to put it all back together haha hope this was helpful guys. Thanks for all the information as always and whenever I can, I'll help out. If anybody is going through with this job, just send me a PM if you like.

 

The vehicle being operated on in this procedure is the g/f's 93 SPFI automatic FWD Loyale(Left. White fender) Benjamin (Ben) Hooptie . He developed the tick of death about 10,000 miles ago. He ran pretty weak and got horrible (for him) gas mileage through-out his ailment. He is now at 78,800 miles and running good as new = )

 

Radiator, A/C condenser, Alternator, battery, fan all removed. A/C strung up with bungie cord. Notice the amount of space to work with all these things removed.

 

Lots of access to get to everything you need to do. If you don't care about your A/C, this is definitely the way to work.

 

 

Crank Pulley removed. Timing belt covers off. Belts were replaced only 15,000 miles ago. Old oil pump visible and trembling with fear.

 

Driver's side.

 

Freshly installed. Be careful that the mickey mouse gasket does not shift while you are sliding the new pump into position.

 

In order to get the oil pump to line up properly, I had to break off a small piece of plastic from the still in place inner timing belt covers. This broken plastic is visible just to the right of the very bottom right of the oil pump. I also removed a small piece of rubber that was above the very top left part of the oil pump (where there is now a small gap between it and the block. DO NOT KING KONG TIGHTEN THE OIL PUMP BOLTS. They WILL snap easily. Snug them down and then give them a little bit more oomph. That's it.

 

Hope this is helpful for some people. Sorry I rambled a bit but....i'm a write up noobie haha. Going to bed now. cheers all and

 

Yaaaaaaaaaay! No more ticking!!! haha!

[ihscout54]

Awesome I dont have any EA82's but I admire the extra time anyone takes to put greasy finger prints on their camerea . I always think about taking pics and doing a write up but its an extra hassle while doing a job.

Thanks!

[MilesFox]

Sweet! glad to see a write up.

 

With your permission, i would like to post your article with pictures on my subaru resource website that i am developing.

 

You should also submit your article to the USRM as well.

[l75eya]

Sweet! glad to see a write up.

 

With your permission, i would like to post your article with pictures on my subaru resource website that i am developing.

 

You should also submit your article to the USRM as well.

 

Not a problem at all, just link back here if you can miles. =)