Ball Joint Pinch Bolt Removal

[rmmagow]

2001 Forester, 160000 miles.

 

I searched and did find some info about removing the Ball Joint pinch bolt in order to replace the BJ. My concern is getting it out if I have to break off the head of the existing bolt. Picture this, bolt head snaps off. Which side do I try to drill into, broken head side or the other side? do I need a reversible drill and left hand bits? Am I just using progressivly bigger bits and drilling through to weaken the bolt's remains?

I know Easy-outs don't actually work, I don't want to wreck the knuckle. I replaced this knuckle about 3~4 years ago, the head broke off then but since the knuckle was bad I didn't care. I need to replace the BJ and the axle on the left side front. I have a pretty good idea how to get the BJ out of the Arm, no so much out of the knuckle. The BJ stud is damaged and might be a problem but I am hoping there's enough castle nut remains to get it off.

Thanks

[idosubaru]

if you had it off once before for replacement it's probably more likely to come out this time than the original?

 

drill so that the turning motion of the drill bit is "unthreading" the bolt out the *head* side where it would normally unthread from. that is ideal. so you use a left handed bit from the head side or a right handed bit from the other side.

 

i generally start with a small drill bit...sort of depends how mangled it is. if i can center it i'll start with a larger bit, if it's trickier i'll start with a small bit to help center the larger one next.

 

it's not hard to do it without damaging threads but even i you do it's not a big deal - just chase the remaining threads and clean them up or heli-coil it or use a larger bolt/threads and tap it to that. definitely try not to do that, but don't sweat it if you gotta get creative either. the housings can crack so don't go bonkers.

 

and then yes you're just increasing the bit size until eventually it just spins the remaining shank/threads out. only takes one or two bits usually.

 

in another thread they talked about some "rust evaporator", i would look into that - soak a rag in the stuff and wrap the bolt with the rag for a night or two - it breaks down the corossion. i would probably do that since a ball joint you should have some time to work with and not have to do it immediately? do that before you attempt to remove that bolt, it might help it come out?

 

make sure you have a pickle fork, ball joints are difficult to get out in the rust belt otherwise.

[Turbone]

I replaced this knuckle about 3~4 years ago, the head broke off then but since the knuckle was bad I didn't care.

 

I would soak it good for a while with PB Blaster or Yield if you can find it.

While its soaking, take a center punch and rap the heck out of the bolt head.

Then spray it some more. When I have something like this I like to give a little tightening twist, then back it off. Do this a few times while rapping it with the center punch.

If it does snap off, do what Gary suggested with drilling it out.

[rmmagow]

Thanks Guys. I'm pretty good about fixing my cars and think that this task is probably going to go OK. I just did the driver's side axle, now this one on the other side. Some very bad service on the car caused a wheel to fall off. The wheel went under the car destroying the ball joint stud. Apparently this also caused my non-subaru axle to self destruct. Axle, ball joint and with some luck back on the road. I'm kind of old so I might have to wait until spring which sucks. On the other hand, I may just buy all the parts and find a decent, easy to talk to shop about fixing this for me. Really not a super hard job, just tedious while laying on the piece of cardboard.

[idosubaru]

When I have something like this I like to give a little tightening twist, then back it off.

+1 right on, i'll twist back and forth multiple times and if it's really bad take breaks to let it cool down every few minutes.

 

never done the center punch before, another trick to add to the arsenal of stuck fasteners....

[hohieu]

It's really hit or miss with these things. I replaced my ball joints at 170K miles/12 years. On the driver's side, I hit it with PB Blaster, a torch, and an electric impact wrench until the bolt finally sheared in half. I had sprayed it for weeks beforehand. The other side came out with relatively little trouble.

 

Another board member suggests pre-drilling the threaded end in order to allow for some torsional flex when you turn the bolt, and I would probably follow this route if I had to go up against another stubborn pinch bolt.

[CNY_Dave]

Kroil is a few notches better than pb blaster, and pb is pretty good.

 

Dave

[Caboobaroo]

Drill a new hole and put a through bolt with a nut on the other end on it.

[1 Lucky Texan]

Kroil is a few notches better than pb blaster, and pb is pretty good.

 

Dave

 

he could try acetone/PwrStg fluid 50/50 - just have to keep shaking it up.

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/archive/index.php/t-101870.html

[Fairtax4me]

I've been lucky and haven't had one break yet, but with a good set of drill bits drilling the leftovers out of the knuckle isn't that difficult. Drill it out all the way and put a longer bolt all the way through, smothered and covered with anti-seize. Coat the ball joint with anti-seize too.