teasdam Posted March 17, 2004 Share Posted March 17, 2004 so I'm waiting for a halfshaft to come in, and the axle housings are accessible for the moment. I can see the bearings and such within the housing and I was wondering if I should be doing something with them at this point. I've seen where auto shops offer wheel bearing repacking as a service but I don't know what this actually entails. Is it as simple as cramming some new grease in there? or is it something more involved like disassembling the housing innards to clean them up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nug Posted March 17, 2004 Share Posted March 17, 2004 Packing a bearing first involves taking everything apart and cleaning it all up. I wouldn't want to dump new grease on top of old, they may be incompatable. Or if the old grease is contaminated, then you are doing nothing. Take it all apart, clean it up, clean old bearings out with solvent. Inspect. Determine reusability. Take whatever bearing you plan on using in one hand, a handful of your favorite high-temp, wheel bearing grease in the other. "Scoop" the grease out of your hand with the bearing, forcing it though the rollers until it appears out of the other end. It helps to scoop a little at a time, eating the bearing cage into your palm to really force it though. Once you go all the way around and fill all the cavities between the rollers up, put it back where it came from and install a fresh seal, or the old one if you somehow miraculously removed it without destroying it. I sort of doubt any shop would go into this amount of detail, but it's the only correct way. "bearing packers" are availible rather cheaply from places like Harbor freight, and it allows you to use a grease gun to pack the bearing. It's still a huge freakin' mess any way you look at it, so take that into perspective. Also, wash your hands BEFORE you grab a clean bearing and a handful of grease, that way, all the crap on your palms doesn't end up in between the rollers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubSandRail Posted March 18, 2004 Share Posted March 18, 2004 I put on a pair of nitrile gloves. Costs 20 cents per pair but saves 20 minutes of washing grease off your hands. just peel them off and throw them away when you are done. I started using them when I was working on my sand rail every day for 7 months. Got tired of permanantly dirty hands, and didn't want to expose my system to any more chemicals than needed. Most auto parts stores will have 100 packs behind the counter for $6 to $10. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cole098 Posted March 18, 2004 Share Posted March 18, 2004 Are the wheel bearings pressed in???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rallyruss Posted March 18, 2004 Share Posted March 18, 2004 the sealed bearings are not meant to be packed. 1 time deal. that does not mean I have not tried to. I ended up injecting some redline synthetic grease into them. because they are a press fit(usually) guess it did not help because the right one is just starting to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 18, 2004 Share Posted March 18, 2004 I don't know about EA82's, but on the EA81's they are a press-fit. but you can install them with a soft faced hammer (copper or aluminium), and a brass punch. In fact, this is the reccomended removal method according to the FSM. They are HEAVY duty bearings, so a little pouding if your careful should not hurt them. There is no need to even remove the hub from the car - just bang out the old bearings, and beat in a new set. Don't firget the spacer in the middle, and also use new seals on both sides to protect your new bearings. NAPA has two grades of bearings - one is about $11 each, the other is about $22 Autozone has Timken bearings for about $13 each The seals are about $5 each no matter where you go GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subiemech85 Posted March 18, 2004 Share Posted March 18, 2004 USE THE PACKER to put in new grease, there is very little mess if done right 1. clean bearings in SOLVENT 2. blow out old grease and solvent with compressed air 3. put bearing on packer << 4. pack bearing with tub grease 5. put packer top on <<< 6. pack bearing with gun grease until a good amount has spewed out of bearing bottom, usually 6-10 pumps 7. remove packer top and bearing and put left over grease in tub for next time < timken is good I use napa ep disc and drum hd bearing grease in 5# tub, it is white Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted March 18, 2004 Share Posted March 18, 2004 My Subaru master tech buddy put me at ease today.I need to do a bearing swap and always tapped them in with great care using whatever didn't destroy the bearing. So I ask him if he/they'd press them in for me if I brought him the hub.He gave me a laugh and said he taps them in-using the proper tool supplied by Subaru of course. Good square pieces of metal,good dowels,heavy duty washers,etc......these all come into play when "backyarding" a new wheel bearing in.But as long as you square it up properly and seat it fully without "walking" it in you can be confident. One of these days I'm going to score one of those little bearing packer tube things...but for now the hand packing works well enough. I once changed a rear wheel bearing on a half hour ferry ride and got the job done and tools put away with time for a coffee before disembarking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teasdam Posted March 18, 2004 Author Share Posted March 18, 2004 so just how hard is it to get the bearing out, and back in? I have minimal equipment and tools, just enough to really mess things up. I guess my biggest concern is putting them back in correctly...do you think I could do everything else myself and then take it all to a machinist to have them pressed back in? Which way do the bearings come out? (I mean, towards the outside of housing or other way?) Do they go back in the same direction? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 18, 2004 Share Posted March 18, 2004 How many times do we have to say you don't need a press? Jeez. The outside one comes out toward the outside, and the inside one comes out towards the inside. If you can lay hands on a brass punch, you'll be fine (about $1 from harbor frieght). You just pound the old bearings out with the punch, using it at an angle from the outside of the hub - the spacer moves up and down, allowing you to use the punch on the inner race of the old bearing. It literally takes less time to remove and install the bearings than it does to pack them by hand. As for bearing packing, I have two methods - usually I just do it by hand, but if I'm lazy or don't want to get dirty, I'll break out the pneumatic grease gun and a grease needle - just use the needle to fill up the "holes" in the bearings. Works great. I personally don't like bearing packers - they make a mess, and then you have to store them somewhere where they won't get dirty, etc. At least I can throw away rubber gloves.... GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NV Zeno Posted March 18, 2004 Share Posted March 18, 2004 Paul (Moosens), you crack me up: "I once changed a rear wheel bearing on a half hour ferry ride and got the job done and tools put away with time for a coffee before disembarking." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teasdam Posted March 18, 2004 Author Share Posted March 18, 2004 er, I just figgered pressing them in would be a preferred method. As mentioned above, "backyarding" these bearings back in place leaves the opportunity to mess it up....I don't always trust myself with projects that require finesse. Thanks for the replies. The halfshaft still hasn't arrived so I guess that's all the excuse I need to give it a shot. While I have your attention...anything in particular I need to look for when buying the grease? I saw mention of high-temp, but anything else? No idea if this grease comes in differrent weights or somethin like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 18, 2004 Share Posted March 18, 2004 IF you could find someone willing to press them in (unlikely), they wouldn't have the correct press fittings anyway. And any shop will just pound them in anyway, so I fail to see how this is a "backyarding" method of installation. This is how Mudrat79 installs them, and many here on the board consider him to be a very knowledgable Subaru mechanic... GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
All_talk Posted March 18, 2004 Share Posted March 18, 2004 Originally posted by GeneralDisorder allowing you to use the punch on the inner race of the old bearing. GD Not to be contrary, but… If you plan to reuse the bearing don't pound on the inner race, the bearing is held by the outer race and you never want to transfer the impact through the balls, it will bernell (dent) the races and the bearing will fail. There are cutouts in the hub casting to give you access to the edge of the outer race, find them through all the grease and drive it there. I’ve always found the bearings are harder coming out than going back in (normally they’ve been in there a while). Btw, I’ve always used the hand pack greasing method, just like my daddy taught me. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
asavage Posted March 19, 2004 Share Posted March 19, 2004 Brinnel. Right, never beat on the inner race of a brg you want to reuse. Outer race only. GD: where do you get nitrile gloves 100/$8? I pay that much for latex ones, the nitrile cost me several dollars more per box. I go through a lot of latex gloves, but am very sparing using my nitrile ones, because of the expense. But latex won't hold up to solvents. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted March 19, 2004 Share Posted March 19, 2004 Couple of things,working in reverse.... I agree,where do you get the good nitriles for that price.Sure don't see them that low here. More good advice there about NOT banging the inner race if re-using,which I've done.Flush,flush,flush all the old grease out and use recomended grease per front disk wheels or rear drum....go to a good store and get decent stuff-NOT Walmart's grease,etc.You don't need to spend a lot but going cheap bites you in the backside. Sidenote:NEVER use that Tech2000 garbage Walmart sells-oil,grease,tampons,whatever!!! Don't touch the stuff. GD There's plenty of shops here that'll do it quick and painless.Just ask your dealer who they use for a machine shop and go to them.The dealer sends out flywheels,heads,etc,etc all the time.They'll direct you should you feel totally uncomfortable about tapping them in.Like I said,even the Senior Master Tech taps them in so a shop is not necessary.One of those things you and only you can decide.Take our word for it.You can do this,but you do need to come up with a safe way of tapping it in. As mentioned,I keep an assortment of items to help.One way to do the outer is to have the inner one in,pass the axle through,and draw the outer one in with the castle nut and some large washers,or whatever you come up with. If you're going for a new inner seal I suggest a good cleaning of the old grease then apply heat to the bearing seats.The heat opens the hole enough to slip the bearings in.Helps to keep the bearings cold(MUST be wrapped if going in the fridge/freezer). You'll get a few different suggestions if you talk to a few people. You can do it.We're all non mechanics-with few exceptions.We come home from our day jobs and sometimes worry about screwing up but we all help each other and the jobs always seem to get done.Good luck.Remember,even the most knowledgable factory trained techs knew nothing about wheel bearings once too.Don't take that the wrong way please. Cheers Yes Dave,next I'll be doing a timing belts while stuck on the George Washinton Bridge. ....wait a minute,I'm setting myself up for a jinx here..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 19, 2004 Share Posted March 19, 2004 Not to be contrary, but… If you plan to reuse the bearing don't pound on the inner race Yes - that would be why I said OLD bearing. If I'm taking it out, then I certainly WILL NOT be reusing it. Like I said before, the punch is the RECOMENDED method of removing the bearings according to the FSM. If you have issue with that, then call SOA. Not only that, but I fail to see any other method of removing them that will not result in pounding or pressing on the inner race. This is of course with my limited experience of EA81's.... I don't mess with EA82's, so I don't know about them. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
All_talk Posted March 19, 2004 Share Posted March 19, 2004 You did say OLD, which would imply that there was also a NEW, fair enough, and I certainly don’t argue with the using a punch. We my be talking apples and oranges, as I have never done bearings on a EA81, but the EA82 hub does have cutouts in the hub casting so you can drive directly on the outer race. Like I indicated before, I don’t want to come off argumentative, just trying to share my limited knowledge with anyone it might help. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubSandRail Posted March 19, 2004 Share Posted March 19, 2004 $8.99 for 100 nitrile gloves. I usually wait until the local store has them on sale for $5.99 then buy several boxes. At the Tacoma Harbor Freight they only go on sale about once a year. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=45042 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
asavage Posted March 21, 2004 Share Posted March 21, 2004 $8.99 (or $5.99) is a very good price for nitrile, but . . . I just remembered a disaster we had last year. The guy who orders our gloves got the bright idea to save some big $$$ and order them via the internet instead of getting them delivered from the local parts store as usual. So he bought a case of some cheap-rump roast latex gloves, and they were really, really flimsy . . . but oh, so cheap. We've still got a couple boxes of them left, in a closet somewhere. Everybody refuses to wear them. The brand? "GlowMaster". I don't make this siht up. The latex ones we use that are pretty decent are "diamond-grip" something-or-other. They hold up reasonably well, they're not the best but they're only $8.99/100. I think the nitrile ones I buy are not that brand, and they can be re-used quite a bit, whereas the latex ones are toast once you take them off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teasdam Posted March 22, 2004 Author Share Posted March 22, 2004 oh man, that's not hard at all once a guy finds the right tools...my father-in-law is a welder so he has every tool under then sun. Took maybe an hour to do both sides. Thanks again for the help all of you. Now I just have to put it all back together and the beast should be ready for another 200k miles! (...I think I'll just leave the rear drums on for now or it'll be another month before I drive the car.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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