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CV Joints & Boots Replacement; Split Boots?


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I took my 1995 Legacy 2.2 into the shop to get a muffler leak

patched, and found out I also needed a new gas tank filler pipe

(common problem I've heard), and that my CV boots were shot.

 

Coincidentally NOW my CV joints are making some noise, which

I hadn't noticed before.

 

Now if I recall correctly from my antique VW days, you used to be

able to get replacement CV boots that didn't require you to remove

the shafts to replace the boots. EG split boots you could put around

the CV joints without removing the shafts/joints. Am I dreaming or

what? Do such thing still exist? Did they ever?

 

In any case, it's probably too late for my current CV joints. My

understanding is that your can drive them for quite a while longer,

untill you get tired of hearing the noise, they aren't actually going to

fail real soon?

 

Thanks in advance for all your advise! Jim.

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Now if I recall correctly from my antique VW days, you used to be

able to get replacement CV boots that didn't require you to remove

the shafts to replace the boots. EG split boots you could put around

the CV joints without removing the shafts/joints. Am I dreaming or

what? Do such thing still exist? Did they ever?

 

You must be dreaming. :D

 

The split boots on the air-cooled VWs were only for the swingaxle transmissions (spade axles with fulcrum plates as a universal joint), designed as easier replacements since it was so much work to pull the axles on those to replace the non-split boots that they normally had.

 

Any ACVW with CV joints would have used non-split boots exclusively (IRS trans, for what it is worth). I don't think split boots were ever available for CV jointed ACVWs, probably because it was so much easier to pull the axles off. ;)

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  • 3 weeks later...

Ok, so split boots were a figment of my imagination...

 

I alos seem to remember people pulling the CV joints out,

and putting them in backwards/reversed to get more miles

out of them? Apparently they only wear on one side?

 

How hard is it to replace the CV joints on the 95 Legacy?

Any special tools required? Bear in mind that it's winter

in Maine, and I don't have a garage. But it's been above

freezing during the day as often as it's been below *so Far*!!!

 

thanks, Jim.

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I alos seem to remember people pulling the CV joints out,

and putting them in backwards/reversed to get more miles

out of them? Apparently they only wear on one side?

a guy on subaruxt.com, i can't recall his exact user name but his name is Wayne. he did that on his Subaru and it worked. he has a thread there about it.

 

How hard is it to replace the CV joints on the 95 Legacy?

Any special tools required?

it's easy with good tools. the axle nuts can be insanely hard to remove. have an impact gun, torch, or 3/4" socket set available. i've sheared off multiple 1/2" sockets, breaker bars, and socket wrenches on axle nuts. i now have a 3/4" socket set and 900 ft/lb impact gun, it's easy. wrestling with that nut can mean the difference between 5 minutes and an hour.

 

if you have any rust at all - just remove the top strut mount bolt, it's the only bolt you have to remove to remove the axle. loosen the lower bolt, remove the top one an the knuckle swings out enough to pull the axle off the trans first, thread it upwards towards the hood, then snake it out underneath. you have to mark the bolt head (not the nut) of the top bolt since it affects alignment. it's really simple, just mark it with something semi-permanent or permanent so you can resinllat the bolt in the same position and maintain alignement.

 

with the wheel off you're only removing one bolt, one nut (axle nut) and loosening another to get the axle out. and knock the pin out.

 

the axle pin holes only line up one way when reinstalling, take note, the pin won't fit if it's not the right way. self explanatory when you look at the splines int he shaft at each hole. it's not symmetric from one hole to the next.

 

30 minutes to swap one axle....plan on an hour or hour and a half for first time. that should roughly cover it.

 

i get used Subaru axles with good boots for $25-$33 each and then reboot them. that's a great way to avoid the aftermarket axle junk and it's inexpensive too.

 

Once they start making noise, it's too late.
not that i recommend it or consider it good practice but i've personally rebooted noisy axles and haven't had issues with them yet. again, not saying i'd do it on someone elses car, one i'm selling, or even very often, but i've done it before and so far no issues.
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The axles are fairly easy to replace if some of the tips above are followed. A good 3/4" drive or larger breaker bar and socket is what I have been using. Then I put about a 5 foot long piece of 1-1/2" pipe over it and just lay on it. I have yet to find an axle nut that can resist that amount of force. No need to bother unstaking it. I have used an impact gun and that works fine too, but I saw somewhere Subaru said they didn't like impact for that application because of potential wheel bearing damage though the direction of the force doesn't seem like that would be an issue.

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Dorman , had the split boots but I think they discontinued, but call them . I just did both inner boots, 1st time for me. Axle nuts came off with not much trouble. I wouldn't want to do outside where you are.Also, If your struts need replacing, now would be the time. BTW I called Gabriel shocks, & spoke to engineer, I asked if KYB makes the subaru fit Gabriels, & he confirmed yes. He also said many companies swap & trade & relabel shocks/struts. Cuts cost on tooling.

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