the sucker king Posted January 10, 2012 Author Share Posted January 10, 2012 Alright the Nissan throwout bearing is on the way, I am going to pick up a flywheel and drop it off to be machined. Should have everything by the end o day. My only concern is- Is there a way to double check that the p-plate I have is indeed for an ea82? Does anyone have any measurements I could take to verify? One other afterthought is there is no problem with the stock cable for my clutch with this new set up? Not worried about the .1" difference in step, just want to be sure that the flywheel wall is not drastically different in thickness and my cable won't max out either way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 10, 2012 Share Posted January 10, 2012 No you should be alright on the cable. Having the step height corrected will cause the PP fingers to flatten out and move the fork back maybe 1/4" to 1/2" from where it was. The .1" step reduction will help with that. But you should still be solidly in the threaded area of the cable. The only measurement I know of to differentiate the PP's is the TOB diameter compared to the PP spring diameter. I've looked at all of the combo's in detail and the EA81 TOB doesn't fit the EA82 PP for beans. It barely contacts on just the outer edge. If you compare to the EA82 TOB (which is the same for Legacy, etc all the way to present day models) the diameter difference is huge. Even the Nissan 720 bearing isn't quite as large. Better than the EA81 version for sure though. The fact that you have the EA82/Legacy springs in the PP coupled with the known step height difference and that you experienced slippage is really good evidence that you have an EA82 PP. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the sucker king Posted January 10, 2012 Author Share Posted January 10, 2012 The guys at the machine shop shop said .827 on the step, was .815 (mentioned above in your previous post) to accomodate a difference in disk thickness? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the sucker king Posted January 10, 2012 Author Share Posted January 10, 2012 and when I picked up my flywheele to take it to be machined, there was a spent p-plate from a loyale stting in it, so I was able to compare it to mine. I feel comfortable now that I have an ea82 p plate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the sucker king Posted January 10, 2012 Author Share Posted January 10, 2012 also pilot bearing appear to be the same for ea81 and ea82 flywheels, is that correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 10, 2012 Share Posted January 10, 2012 Yeah - pilot bearing is the same from the 70's to today. (MOD EDIT-83-84 2wd ea81 5spd has a slightly different sized pilot bearing for some reason, learned that the hard way the other day .5 mm smaller diameter) GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the sucker king Posted January 10, 2012 Author Share Posted January 10, 2012 Yeah - pilot bearing is the same from the 70's to today. GD actually the 70 ones used a needle bearing set into the crank not to be too demanding here, but what about that .815 number, the guys at the machine shop said the step for a loyale should be .827. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 10, 2012 Share Posted January 10, 2012 actually the 70 ones used a needle bearing set into the crank The earlier ones likely did but the later EA71's I think used the same pilot. not to be too demanding here, but what about that .815 number, the guys at the machine shop said the step for a loyale should be .827. .815" is what I have always measured on EA82 flywheels and it's the number always qouted for the EA82T and XT6. Which used the same basic clutch setup as the regular EA82. If you measure an EA82 flywheel step it will be right at .815". I'm sure that .827 would probably work too.... only talking about 12 thou.... GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the sucker king Posted January 11, 2012 Author Share Posted January 11, 2012 So my parts came on time and I didn't get very far before i hit my first snag, The flywheel rubs on the bottom of the bellhousing, and I don't have the tool to grind down the bellhousing. So tomorrow I will have to buy or borrow a proper grinding tool. Here are the two bellhousing side by side, The one on the left is the ea82 that i am using, it was marked as being from a 91 loyale. The ea81 flywheel is on the right. It is about 3mm taller over all, but the problem is how the teeth on the ea82 flywheel start 3mm more toward the crank, causing it to rub, see second pic Third pic is where I will have to grind away This is like the third time in about a week and a half I really could have used a good grinding tool so I should just get one. I have $120 credit at EZ Pawn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the sucker king Posted January 11, 2012 Author Share Posted January 11, 2012 I hope the 3 mm difference will not effect how the starter mates up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the sucker king Posted January 11, 2012 Author Share Posted January 11, 2012 Another thing to note is that the timing marks are off by like 7 degrees on the ea82 flywheel, so it is important to paint on some new marks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 (edited) No the starter will be fine with the EA82 flywheel. Remember that the EA81 flywheel is the taller one so the flywheel just moves away from the starter slightly. And that's also what happens when you take 0.1" off the EA81 PP surface. Still works fine. Forgot to mention the grinding - sorry about that. An angle grinder or a die grinder with a cut-off wheel will do the job easily. You just notch the bottom of the bell housing where you have it marked. That's the only mod needed. You also have to ditch the cover plate on the bottom of the engine if you have one. No big deal there either. I take my cut-off wheel and make a mark at the proper location of zero for the timing. The rest of the marks can be interpolated from the zero - you just have to count the slash marks or subtract 7 as you noted. GD Edited January 11, 2012 by GeneralDisorder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the sucker king Posted January 12, 2012 Author Share Posted January 12, 2012 Got it all back together last night and took a quick drive this AM, clutch holds great. The cable however, i had to put several washers on just to get it in gear. That quick fix will work for now, and i think I will make a bracket to hold the cable an inch or two behind where it currently sits. Other than that, I'm good. I wonder if a different fork would have been the ticket for the cable issue? Thanks for the help, GD, after I work the kinks out of this we should put this on the USRM. It seems like a cool mod if the end result is a superior clutch for ea81s. I've got some pics to right it up proper style. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 (edited) Cool - glad it worked out for you. One thing you can probably do on the clutch cable is get the rubber "snubber" and associated washers from an EJ cable and slip it on before the two nuts. Those are handy for that sort of thing. They give you additional adjustment if the cable is too long. The snubber and washers add up to a good 1/2" of additional stack under the nuts. Is it an OEM cable? Might be able to modify a cable mount from a 5 speed.... Anyway that's pretty trivial. Getting the cable adjusted to where the fork wants to sit is easy once the clutch is doing what it should and grabbing properly. Absolutely on the write-up for the USRM. Anyone that wants an awesome clutch for an EA81 w/4 speed simply has to use the EA82 flywheel, XT6 pressure plate, EA81 disc, and Nissan 720 TOB. Sure you have to peice the kit together to get it all setup right but that's not too hard. The reason I've never written it up is because most people just ditch the 4 speed for the 5 because it's stronger with a lower "Lo" range. GD Edited January 13, 2012 by GeneralDisorder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the sucker king Posted January 19, 2012 Author Share Posted January 19, 2012 Yes it is a brand new OEM cable. You mention an XT6 pressure plate, Is that different than the regular ea82 pressure plates? superior? I have driven this around a couple days now, I like it very much. It feels a little different from the stock set up and it definately grips real nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.