Arty Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 I'm sure some of you remember my heater issues. If not, my heater doesn't work. I have a 95 Legacy Outback, 5 speed, 2.2. The blower is perfectly fine, the fuses are ok, resistor block is good, and the relays are good. I know because I've tested them all on my wife's car. When I turn on the windshield defroster on full blast, the radiator fans kick in. But the blower still doesn't engage (Though it works perfectly fine in my wife's car) Oh- and everything is getting the proper voltage. So, after messing around with it some more, I still have no idea. But last night I went to try and repair the cigarette lighter. It turns out that it doesn't work either. Could these two things be related somehow? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 Are you reading voltage under load or with the plug disconnected? See: www.brighterideas.com and click on the training video tab. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted January 10, 2012 Share Posted January 10, 2012 I thought we covered this before? The fan is grounded through the speed control switch on the dash. Did you change the switch yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarl Posted January 10, 2012 Share Posted January 10, 2012 If you want to be absolutely sure: identify the (-) terminal on the blower motor, and connect it to ground through a fused jump wire. If it works you have your culprit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arty Posted January 10, 2012 Author Share Posted January 10, 2012 I thought we covered this before? The fan is grounded through the speed control switch on the dash. Did you change the switch yet? Yes, with my wife's switch. The switch is good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arty Posted January 10, 2012 Author Share Posted January 10, 2012 Are you reading voltage under load or with the plug disconnected? See: www.brighterideas.com and click on the training video tab. I tried both ways. Everything reads fine. I've tested everything I can think of. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arty Posted January 10, 2012 Author Share Posted January 10, 2012 If you want to be absolutely sure: identify the (-) terminal on the blower motor, and connect it to ground through a fused jump wire. If it works you have your culprit. I will probably give this a shot on Saturday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arty Posted January 10, 2012 Author Share Posted January 10, 2012 I thought we covered this before? The fan is grounded through the speed control switch on the dash. Did you change the switch yet? To clarify- You're absolutely correct, we have covered this. And your suggestion of the switch was my last glimmer of hope. I tried it and everything was the same. I really was hoping it would be the switch. The reason I didn't post any updates, however, was because I've been incredibly busy- Bought a house, having a baby, new job, etc. I just posted this question as to give a less confusing update to the issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarl Posted January 10, 2012 Share Posted January 10, 2012 Come on... you think that JUST having a baby and some other minor issues will excuse you? Congratulations man... I hope you are recovering some of your sleep Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted January 10, 2012 Share Posted January 10, 2012 (edited) Then we have a wire issue between the switch and blower, or between the switch and chassis ground. Pin number 1 (large pin on the end) of the switch harness plug I15 is the ground wire for the switch. Black wire. This wire goes to the harness and grounds at body ground number 7 which is at the bottom left corner of the center dash/radio console. Several black wires come together here and there is a single wire plug about 6-8 inches up the harness from where the eyelet connector is bolted to the body. The fan wiring goes though connector B80 which is in the dash behind the mode control panel. Check for continuity there between connector B80 pin 4 black and yellow wire and the blower connector B87 pin 2 black and yellow wire. This is the ground wire for the fan. With the switch in position 4 there should be close to 0 ohm resistance on this wire. You can also check continuity between connector I20 pin4 (the side that plugs into B80) and connector I15 pin 5 which is the connector that plugs into the switch. Also a black and yellow wire. There should be little to no resistance between those connectors. You can get the FSM to see the diagram for yourself here: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ 1995 Legacy FSM, Wiring Diagram Section, file ~5932, page 31. Also, Congrats on the house, baby, and job! Edited January 10, 2012 by Fairtax4me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arty Posted January 30, 2012 Author Share Posted January 30, 2012 First off, I just want to give a HUGE thank you to these guys- Come on... you think that JUST having a baby and some other minor issues will excuse you? Congratulations man... I hope you are recovering some of your sleep Then we have a wire issue between the switch and blower, or between the switch and chassis ground. Pin number 1 (large pin on the end) of the switch harness plug I15 is the ground wire for the switch. Black wire. This wire goes to the harness and grounds at body ground number 7 which is at the bottom left corner of the center dash/radio console. Several black wires come together here and there is a single wire plug about 6-8 inches up the harness from where the eyelet connector is bolted to the body. The fan wiring goes though connector B80 which is in the dash behind the mode control panel. Check for continuity there between connector B80 pin 4 black and yellow wire and the blower connector B87 pin 2 black and yellow wire. This is the ground wire for the fan. With the switch in position 4 there should be close to 0 ohm resistance on this wire. You can also check continuity between connector I20 pin4 (the side that plugs into B80) and connector I15 pin 5 which is the connector that plugs into the switch. Also a black and yellow wire. There should be little to no resistance between those connectors. You can get the FSM to see the diagram for yourself here: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ 1995 Legacy FSM, Wiring Diagram Section, file ~5932, page 31. Also, Congrats on the house, baby, and job! I seriously appreciate the well wishes! Now to the heater- It inexplicably started working again the other day. The weekend before I was going to take it in to get it replaced, it started working again. I was following my dad's moving truck back to our house when he took a wrong turn. At the red light, I jumped out of my car to tell him we'd have to make another turn. When I got back in the car- Heater. The only thing I've noticed that seems to be different since it's started working again is that the chime the car makes at start up is a bit higher pitched now. I just thought someone may find this interesting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 :-p Love those problems that fix themselves. Sounds like a ground issue. The beeper grounds through one of the grounds mentioned before under the dash. Check those over and make sure they are tight and clean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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