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inspection reveals torn cv boot & bad struts


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1999 impreza L at front struts are leaking & therefore I hope to replace my self.( best struts for the buck?) Since both sides will be taken apart, should I just put two new axles in at the same time?(since inner boot is torn?) Do they come with boots? Whos last the best for the buck? Also need seals on both sides of tranny front axle output.

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reboot your axles. buy new boots.

 

rockauto.com has amazing prices sometimes, but have to play with shipping.

 

aftermarket axles suck - there are countless threads on every single subaru forum about aftermarket axles having issues.

 

even if i have a failed axle i don't buy new ones from the store. Subaru prices are insane and aftermarkets suck really bad, i've personally had countless issues. if i have to replace an axle i buy a used subaru axle and reboot it.

 

KYB are popular struts on Legacy and Outback, I would assume that's a good choice for impreza as well.

 

thepartsbin.com

rockauto.com

 

have great prices online - and you can also look for specials and deals online - get a code that you enter when you check out and get 20% off sometimes.

 

advance auto parts also has online codes where you can buy parts - get %20 off (or $25 off $100 or $50 off $150, etc). you can order online and pick up in store.

 

if the local store doesn't have it in stock (so you can't get the discount online and pick up locally)- call them, ask them to order it so it's in their inventory, then order online to get the discount.

 

lots of options.

 

rockauto can have really crazy cheap prices (sometimes, not always). but - make absolutely sure it's the right part, their database is rather sucky and will list parts that dont' fit the vehicle you entered. just google, ebay, or use any other parts place to verify (advance, napa, etc).

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Tokico makes some sport struts for Imprezas. But if you just want to stay near-stock, KYB probably a better choice than Monroe, Gabriel, w'ever. I just put some on my wife's Outback - no problems. Keep in mind, ANY new struts could feel 'stiff'/'different' than your present 'blown' ones.

 

MWE (through ccrengines.com IIRC) sells rebuilt Soob axles. Lots of folks do complain about aftermarket axles. So far, I have no issues with the EMPI unit in my wife's car. Raxles.com supposedly has a good reputation too. Supposedly, the rebuilts from the Subaru dealer are top quality but, unless they, or any, local place will guranteed to take back any that clunk, leak or vibrate, it's a risk. Also, do not put the wheel on the ground for the final torque on the axle nut. Supposedly not good for the bearing (wonder if this could lead to the vibration complainst people sometimes report on replacement axles?). Slip a giant screwdriver or something in the brake rotor vents, back up against the caliper, then torque. You can find DIY stuff on the Forums for axles and struts and for rebuilding your own axles. Rebuilding looks messy - but def. would be the cheapest, most ideal way to get good axles back on your car.

 

and rockauto and amazon have been great resources for parts.

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wow, thanks for rockauto tip, the boot prices much better. I saw subiepartsforyou, & saw approx $39 per boot & thought foolish? to not change axle, but now I can justify fixing existing axles, they are still quiet. BUT which brand is the longest lasting? I see in search that some aftermarkets were torn in little time. Any name brand known for quality?

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i would lean towards something like Beck Arnley personally or another well known brand. that is almost exclusively what i have and they seem great. i've probably got 5-10 boxes of them in my garage.

 

my guess is that most boot failurees are caused by installation error - it is easy to nick a boot during install or removal of the cumbersome axle in tight places.

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Thanks! I was leaning towards Dorman, lifetime warrenteee? Rockauto had a heart next to the name. I'm not familiar with Beck/Arney, but looks like you do. BTW I see something about rebuilt cv axles, I knew a place that regrinds them & installs larger balls. I personally wouldn't go that route, because I would think the hardness is changed on the regrind surface.

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BTW I see something about rebuilt cv axles
MWE in Colorado does top notch work - the only new/rebuilt axles worth buying in my opinion - the only i ever buy if needed outside of my normal rebooted used axle routine.

 

but - MWE isn't what most folks do as it costs more and requires shipping, returning cores, etc. well worth it for a 100% solution to avoid the aftermarket axle circus.

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I have seen a lot of people say that NAPA axles are junk but I haven't had a problem with either of mine. One has 30k+ on it and 2k on the other. EMPI has good reviews but will cost a bit more then reman axles. Maybe its something with the fwd trans having a different inboard spline count.

 

If a boot is torn make sure there is no dirt in the grease and there is plenty in the joint.

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Anyone hear of this dupont material? http://www2.dupont.com/Automotive/en_US/news_events/article20091005.html Are the usual boots made of rubber? neoprene, nitril, silicon, EDPM?

I emailed Dupont & awaiting answer. Where are the billion , long lasting boots, they boast?

I'm changing my mind about Dorman, looks like they are universal, & 2 piece? (Not very fond of 2 piece, but maybe I'm too old)

Edited by bork
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Hello! :burnout:

 

>> 1999 impreza L at front struts are leaking & therefore I hope to replace my self.( best struts for the buck?)

As mentioned, KYB. Look on eBay, lots of people selling those cheap drop shipped. Pairs or sets of four get even more discount. Some sellers will accept offers even lower than what they list.

 

>> Since both sides will be taken apart, should I just put two new axles in at the same time?(since inner boot is torn?)

Not a bad time to do it, you'll be able to extract the axle from the hub with the struts unhooked.

 

>> Whos last the best for the buck? I've switched to using Subaru genuine reman axles. I was using MWE but I have not been happy with how long the boots last so I'm giving genuine a try. Genuine is about $40 to $50 more expensive though.

 

>>Also need seals on both sides of tranny front axle output.

I believe there's also an o-ring behind there, and the seals sometimes are specific to the side. The retainer you're supposed to count the turns when you remove it and then turn it back on the same turns to keep the backlash the same.

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Well I got a response from Dupont, I dont think their product is used in any boots that I can tell (for subes), by looking at all the post you guys have posted. Otherwise there would be boots being recommended out there that last super long. You would think Dupont would know who they sell their product to? As to promote more usage & product sale. Apparently not enough money to be made or Dupont isn't very proficient, left hand doesnt know what the right hand is doing. I'll check back & see if other companies like GM etc.. have cv boot problems. If theirs last forever, maybe there is a boot we can convert to our fit.

 

Here's the email I received from Dupont,

 

"I assume we sell Hytrel into Subaru CVJ boots, but no idea of details for Impreza - could be a DuPont-Toray grade and made in Japan, if it is Hytrel. Best bet is to check with Subaru dealer - we do not make or sell CVJ boots. The garages typically do not replace CVJ boots anymore as it is so much easier (and revenue-generating) to replace the drive axle half-shaft. Most of the after-market for CVJ boots has dried up since 1) Hytrel boots last so long and 2) the replacement half-shaft market typically is using OEM quality boots. On a 1999 vehicle, the boots he is replacing (if in-board - by the motor) are most likely rubber."

 

 

 

 

Dial DuPont First

DuPont Engineering Polymers

950 Stephenson Highway

Troy, Michigan 48083

248.583.7908

248.583.7909 - Direct

Edited by bork
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My understanding is that the interior CV boots on these cars fail mainly because of their close proximity to the exhaust. If that's the case, looking for boots that last a long time on other cars may be a futile exercise.

 

I replaced both interior booths on my car not long ago, while the engine was out of the car, without removing the axles. I admit it was messy, but I would probably don't mind doing it again in two years or whatever if the need arises. I would probably just follow some of the recommendations here (EMPI has been mentioned, right?) and don't think too much about it.

 

Maybe the only thing I would be curious is the following: some boots have more "accordion segments" than others. I would imagine the more segments the better, as this would reduce the stress on the rubber. Does anyone have experience/knowledge about this?

 

One comment: personally, I would not post someone else's contact information on a website unless I have express permission to do so. Even then, I would be reluctant to do it.

Edited by jarl
typo
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