The FNG Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 What do you all torque them to? I was using 100 ft-lbs today and stripped out at least 2 of my lug nuts. I know they weren't cross-threaded, so what gives? I did the rest to 80. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tractor pole Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 IIRC lug nut torque is 74ft/lbs at least that's whats called out in the FSM M12 range should be 70-80 ft/lbs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obk25xt Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 I usually don't use a torque wrench. Just give em the ol' good n' snug. I have however used a torque wrench on some aluminum lugnuts, I think I set it somewhere in the mid to upper 60's.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The FNG Posted January 17, 2012 Author Share Posted January 17, 2012 Well, sounds like I over did it a touch. my bad. Anyone got a lead on some good cheap lug nuts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6 Star Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 The big axle nut on the hubs are what require tons of tourqing. Those are somewhere over 100 ft/lbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The FNG Posted January 17, 2012 Author Share Posted January 17, 2012 Ya, the reason I used 100 was because that is what we use on our trucks at work, so I didn't really think twice about it until some just kept spinning and one completely popped loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the sucker king Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 according to Bently's, lug nuts should be 59 to 70 ft lbs and axel nut should be 144 ft lbs on ea81s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 according to Bently's, lug nuts should be 59 to 70 ft lbs and axel nut should be 144 ft lbs on ea81sThese are the correct numbers. Funny how there should be so much mis-information out there. I use 80 ft-lbs on my Impreza since I have a 75 ft-lb torque stick and then I tweak them to 80 with the torque wrench. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 (edited) I have been surprised the number of cars i have bought that someone obviosly has no idea they were WAY overtorqeing them. Some cars, people who put the wheels on obviously should not be doing wheel installs were. You shouldn't have to use cheater bars or stomp on the lug method to bust them loose, that is WAY too tight. The torque value is there for many reasons, 1. to prevent hub distortion. that keeps bearings happy. 2. The average little old lady if got a flat tire would have no chance in cold hell to change a tire in the middle of nowhere if they are torgued above the spec number. 3. Stripped threads on the lug nuts 4 stripped threads on the stud 5 .broken off wheel studs, 6. 7. 8, 9. and while we are on the topic, you should never put oil or antiseize on the lugnut studs. If the threads are rusty, you use a tap/die chase them to clean, but never apply any product You can, and should apply a little ring of antisievze around the wheel round center of aluminum wheels where they center around the hub, so they will not be frozen stuck in a salty rust prone area. Edited January 17, 2012 by bheinen74 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flowmastered87GL Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 These are the correct numbers. Funny how there should be so much mis-information out there. I use 80 ft-lbs on my Impreza since I have a 75 ft-lb torque stick and then I tweak them to 80 with the torque wrench. My Baja is torqued to 89 pounds of torque (I had been doing 90 and Costco spec'ed 89 when they did my tires so thats where I do it now) However its not a GL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 I stomp mine on and stomp em' off. Never had an issue. I literally stand on the wrench for a moment when tightening them up good and snug. However...I'm a little guy. I only weigh 145 pounds, so I'm guessing mine are torqued somewhere in the 90-100 lb range. Sucks you stripped them though. Just go get some new studs and new lugs. Car probably will have needed them by now anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 I have been surprised the number of cars i have bought that someone obviosly has no idea they were WAY overtorqeing them. Some cars, people who put the wheels on obviously should not be doing wheel installs were. You shouldn't have to use cheater bars or stomp on the lug method to bust them loose, that is WAY too tight. The torque value is there for many reasons, 1. to prevent hub distortion. that keeps bearings happy. 2. The average little old lady if got a flat tire would have no chance in cold hell to change a tire in the middle of nowhere if they are torgued above the spec number. 3. Stripped threads on the lug nuts 4 stripped threads on the stud 5 .broken off wheel studs, 6. 7. 8, 9. and while we are on the topic, you should never put oil or antiseize on the lugnut studs. If the threads are rusty, you use a tap/die chase them to clean, but never apply any product You can, and should apply a little ring of antisievze around the wheel round center of aluminum wheels where they center around the hub, so they will not be frozen stuck in a salty rust prone area. While we're on the topic here. Why do you suggest not to put anti-seize on the lug nuts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 because anything on the lug nuts will throw off the real torque value, even with the best torque wrench. Good, clean threads is what you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 This is the skinny from Tirerack.com Proper installation requires that the wheel lug torque be set to the recommended specification for your vehicle. These torque specifications can be found in your vehicle's owner's manual, shop repair manual or obtained from your vehicle dealer. Wheel lug torque specifications are for clean threads that are free of dirt, grit, etc. If applying an anti-seize lubricant, it is important to note it can be applied only on the threads of nuts or bolts. The lubricant must not be used on either seat of the hardware of the wheel. With the seat being the main point of friction where torque is measured, extreme caution must be used if an anti-seize lubricant is applied to the threads as excess can either drip or be pushed onto the lug seat resulting in inaccurate torque values. A thread chaser or tap should be used to remove any burrs or obstructions of the threads allowing the lug hardware to be turned by hand until it meets the wheel's lug seat. Once lugs are snugged down, finish tightening them with an accurate torque wrench. Use the appropriate crisscross sequence (shown below) for the number of wheel lugs on your vehicle until all have reached their proper torque value. Be careful because if you over-torque a wheel, you can strip a lug nut or hub, stretch or break a stud or bolt, and cause the wheel, brake rotor and/or brake drum to distort. http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=107 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 That makes me feel better... I always put anti-seize on my threads. I have pugs, and can't afford to strip one of those stupid nuts out... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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