Indrid cold Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 (edited) Short story: 84 Hatch, The front axel just pushes out by hand force, wiggle, wiggle and pull and out. Measuring where the axle race area: old axel is approx, 1.375" New axel is 1.378" On the bench I can slide the old bearings on the old axel and there be ever so slight a gap, but can't hand slide on new axle so tighter fit.. I like tighter fit. Is the dimensional difference enough to create a phantom wobble in the front as it seems to come and go, take apart, find nothing, put back together and all good for 5 months. Any thoughts? UPDATE: I did the shot gun effect, new axle, new bearings, seals, grease etc. The axle I got is a Cardone rebuilt (another companies logo on box) per the supplier.. I also ordered new cone washer... just in case mine was just wore out... got extra too.. figure they are all 25 + years. So, laid in the snow, got er done and sounding good. I think it was just a combination of cheap parts and cheaper parts going bad.... I will replace cone washer when it comes in from local Subie dealer. thanks again for the input. ........................................ Long story: What I found when jacked up. With the 84 Hatch jacked up I can grab the top/bottom of tire and feel what appears to be slop in the knuckle houseing... after the tire is off i can grab the rotor and experience the same slight slop as I wiggle top to bottom. Axle Nut is tight and still under torque. Left side only, right side there is no play as described.. so I am focusing on the issue being on the left side. A shake this time of the year could have been ice/snow packed uneven on the inner rims but as I took the tires off any ice appeared uniformed in thickness. (yes, laying out in the snow...sucks) Interesting point is this shake is exactly what happened in the summer, took apart, (noticed ease of axel removel) didn't see an issue and put back together and shake was gone, 5 months later it comes back while playing with the subie in the snow...... Yes, the axel on the loose side was a $25, left over special, rebuilt in a box at local parts house that was closing up.... Last summer I got a bad shake at 30 mph, ... figure bearing or axel but there wasn't the usual grind nor clunk.. just a shake started. Jacked up both side and wiggled tire.. the left tire had slop like bearings.. took it apart.. all looked good the only thing unusual is I could push the axel out.. no wood and a smack with a hammer, just a push and plunk.. out... I replaced the inside bearing with a slightly used one I had. Put it back together, no shake at 30 mph and drove another 5 months till today when out in the snow... same thing as it started to shake about 30 mph. Jack up, right side tight, .. left side wiggles, figure axel as no bearing grinding noise but everything looks good. Inspect axel, feels good, tight, no slop, but there is the slight slop of each bearing on the axel... ever so slight but it is there... Take dimensions. Also, 3 years ago when I first got this 84 Hatch I wanted to put fresh axels and bearings /seals in. I noticed the kid that had this car before me took a hammer and for what ever reason (possibly remove hub from front strut?).. beat on top of the knuckle bearing area where the outer bearing was.. He beat so hard it slightly oval-ed the outer rubber seal area so I had to take a drimmel tool after I got the bearing beat out out and remove rolled metal along the outer 3rd of the top of housing in order to put a new bearing in. There appeared to be no damage to the inner area so the bearing should still sit true as the damage was more to the outer hub area. I put a new seal in and it has held fine. Using the shot-gun method of replacing everything, I am hoping, new axle, new bearings, new seals will solve this phantom wobble... Edited January 24, 2012 by Indrid cold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 (edited) The 3 thou of axle OD difference wouldn't do it. With the hub in place and the nut torqued the inner races of the bearings as well as the center spacer are compressed together to create a bearing preload situation - if there is still play in the wheel at that point then the bearings are toast or there's a problem with the cone washer and hub fitment. But since I'm sure you are versed in the cone washer and hub fitment routine.... probably shot bearings. The bearings are worn and thus the stock preload (center spacer) is not small enough to load up the inner races to the balls and tighten things down. Subaru designed these hubs for 7207 axial thrust spindle bearings but used 6207's cause they are cheap :cool:. The shaking you feel could be the DOJ. Usually that's a sign they are dry of grease or the grease has gone bad. When you take it apart and move the grease around in the DOJ by messing with the axle.... lubes up the joint and the DOJ stops binding under load. I say replace the bearings and regrease/reboot the axle. GD Edited January 20, 2012 by GeneralDisorder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indrid cold Posted January 20, 2012 Author Share Posted January 20, 2012 (edited) Appreciate the probable cause and suggested cure. I will also look everything over tomorrow during the day light hours for any other possible issues that may be contributing to this........ Edited January 20, 2012 by Indrid cold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 Very interesting read, I have almost identical problem though I do get bearing squeal and grinding that comes and goes and sometimes varies between grinding/squealing only while accelerating (goes away while coasting) or the complete opposite of squealing/grinding only while coasting (goes away while braking/accelerating). Something has been up with my front left axle/bearings since I got this car. At one point I jacked up the car and had almost 1/4" of play laterally in the wheel. That's when I had the axle replaced and the bearings done. After a trip across the country I have the noise again that comes and goes. I have noticed the castlenut come loose once or twice and tightened it back up/ put a new cotterpin in but still the same symptoms. I'm just going to pull a whole knuckle out of a yard car one day and replace it, but for now, I just drive it. So long as it feels tight *shrugs*. Considering they're not too hard to get, maybe you'll want to just replace the whole knuckle as well to rule out all possible variables. Just my .02 Good luck! lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 I have noticed the castlenut come loose once or twice and tightened it back up/ put a new cotterpin in but still the same symptoms. Your problem is clearly the cone washer and hub mating surfaces. Your cone washer is toast and that's what's causing the nut to loosen. Whoever did your axle and bearings needs to go back to school for wrenching. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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