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I'm thinking you're using the wrong marks.

Paint lines on the sprockets don't mean jack. And the lines on the belts can be off by a tooth or more.

 

People will flame me for this but I'm gonna suggest it anyway. After you put the belt on, spin the crank 270 degrees and check the ARROWS on the sprockets. They will all point straight up when the engine is in proper time with the crank positioned at TDC for number 1. That little arrow on the face of the crank sprocket marks TDC. Line it up with the notch on the oil pump housing.

 

It's damn near impossible to use the arrows for alignment when placing the belt, the cams just won't stay still. That's why there are notches in the faces of the cam sprockets. But checking the position of the arrows is IMO the best way to check crank and cam alignment AFTER the belt is installed.

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not the arrows (labeled as the ''piston position marks'' ).

 

always use the lines / hash marks (labeled as alignment marks).

 

when the crank is positioned correctly, the key way in the crank sprocket is straight down in the 6 o'clock position.

 

 

timingbeltdiagram.gif

Edited by johnceggleston
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OK I Knew I had the belt lined up, but I also seen the sequence of idlers and how they are put on. So I took my sweet time and put the idler gear then the lower idler last. Turn the motor with the harmonic balancer bolt by hand a few rotations. Now what happened next was it turned over and fired up for a few seconds, hmmmm. Then it went back to the whirling no compression sound. Dammm. Well, I was convinced that a valve was stuck open. Next, I went to this sight to see what stuck valves remedies there were! Well, nothing simple, I searched marvel mystery oil and still no hits with recommendation so I just went for the mmo and I proceeded to put a half ounce in cylinder 1 and 3 and half of what was left in the gas tank the other half in the oil.Bammm fired up, smoking like the fourth of july. Make a long story short, mmo made the valve loosen up and now purrrrrs like a kitten. I put the belt off and on several times, live and learn...................................Thanks guys for all your help and concern, really, I felt like I had support and that really helps. Again thanks!!!!!

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Good news.

 

But you may not be out of the woods yet.

 

Often after HG jobs or installing a JY 2.2 I run MMO for a little bit. COuld be 5 miles, cold be 100 miles then drain that oil and change filter. I put a quart in (and then 3+ quarts of oil).

 

I don't permanently run MMO. I'd think for long term use it thins the oil out too much. But I truely don't know.

 

I'm jsut wondering how the valve got "hung up" or if something else weird is going on.

 

You may want to try a fuel additive too to clean the combustion chamber. I kinda like Lucas and run a bottle atleast every oil chance in all my vehicles.

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Solid advice! Yes I feel like I have to tread on ice even though its running better than ever. I think a mixture of drugs (oils, additives) may keep the patient alive!!! Crazy, seconds from the junkyard, just kidding, I would have gone in to surgery but not very well versed. Happy for now, really thanks for all the advice,

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  • 1 month later...

Just want to thank Davebugs and Porcupine73 for all they're help and response to my questions, really thanks a great help.

Like I said the motor was wheeling like a blender, no compression, I had the belts lined up right, maybee the first time but the valve had been stuck open,..so comes the marvel mystery oil,.. small squirt in left two cylinders passenger side got motor puffing again,.. changed oil after 20 miles with fresh oil and lucas oil additive,.. thing purrs so quiet I almost restarted after stopping at a 7-eleven for a six pack. Now almoist 500 miles later I think I'm good.

Next stop, keyless, made my seatbelt stop working drivers side, my bad, need diagnosis from an expert as what I screwed up.

Anyways, success at timing belt!! How hard can a seatbelt be??lol, yikes, I know, alot! Again thanks guys!

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