Cyfun Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 So last week my EJ22 swapped GL wagon started running really poorly. Had almost no power, was shaking violently, felt like it was missing on at least one cylinder. It still drove so I continued on, but later it started making this high pitch squealing noise. Definitely sounded like metal, and possibly rotational cause it was fairly continuous. So I had my dad drag me home, haven't had time to mess with it til now. Won't start at all at this point, doesn't seem to want to fire. The two drivers' side spark plugs look fine, but the passenger side ones are pretty black. Plugs and wires are only a year old and look fine, and the coil is definitely dishing out spark. Seems to be getting fuel. Thought it might be a head gasket, but I'm not seeing any oil in coolant or vice versa. Oil was last changed about a month ago. I did a leakdown test, and the front passenger cyl was at like 60%, the back pass was at like 40%, but the drivers side ones were also at like 50%. I might have not done it right, cause it's hard to see TDC on the drivers' side cylinders. I tried doing just a compression test but my ************ty Harbor Break tester wouldn't get very tight and just said 30psi for each cylinder. When it did run but was misfiring, it seemed louder than usual, and I got some occasional backfiring, so I was originally thinking exhaust valves. Engine only has about 160k miles. Seems odd that both passenger side cylinders are completely black. Maybe the passenger side timing gear skipped a tooth? Timing belt and gears look fine. The engine is out of a '93 Legacy so it's OBD-I. I'll try and dig the ECU out of the dash so I can pull some codes. Tempted to just find a used engine or a wrecked Legacy or order up a JDM EJ22 for $800 cause I don't have the time to wongleflute around with this. Anyone have any brilliant ideas, or perhaps an engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 Remove both timing belt covers at each and and see if they line up is a good start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyfun Posted January 22, 2012 Author Share Posted January 22, 2012 I have the covers off both timing gears. Are there marks on there somewhere? Its so close to the radiator, hard to see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 Look for a VERY similar thread here in the last day or so. Porcupine posted a drawing and engine pics that were form a newer 2.2 but yours is the same. Use the search function. Or ofter at the bottoom left there are some "similar threads" displayed. HASH marks IGNORE arrows!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyfun Posted January 22, 2012 Author Share Posted January 22, 2012 Found it. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyfun Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 (edited) I looked at the CPS sensor and it seemed fine, so I pulled my radiator to get a better look at the timing gears. They look like they're a few teeth off! Each pulley has a notch and an arrow, and if I line the passenger side up vertically, the driver's side is noticably ahead clockwise. By those diagrams, the marks should always be clocked the same, right? How the hell could I have skipped ahead without breaking the belt? Edit: Pics Edited January 25, 2012 by Cyfun pics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 it happens, old tired parts. pull the covers and look for a bad, leaking tensioner, or a seized idler. what year is your ej22? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyfun Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 Right on. I believe it's out of a 93 Leg. I have to pull the crank pulley to get through the cover, don't I? Woot, impact wrench time! Shopping for a new belt kit right now. Any recommendations? Considering replacing the water pump while I'm in there. Heh, Napa has a kit for $740. Must be made of gold and copper. Oreilly has one for about $180. But I just found Amazon has a nice Gates kit including water pump for about $160. These timing belts don't seem that difficult to replace, though. Would you guys recommend just replacing what's broken rather than going to town? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 theimportexperts for a timing belt kit - remember to check for THEM on Ebay - sometimes a slightly better deal. Remove rad fans ( or rad) to have room for crank bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 +1 for ''theimportexperts'' on ebay. belt, idlers and water pump, about $125 plus shipping. w/o pump ~$90, plus shipping. how long since you installed the engine? how long since the belt and idlers were done? how about the seals? any oil leaks? thanks for the pics, i wonder where the cams will end up when the crank is set on the timing mark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyfun Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 Previous owner installed the engine. No idea if or when the belt was done before. Got the cover off. Looks like the crank pulley wore a big gouge into it, probably let in all sorts of good ************ when I was chasing puddles. The toothed idler by the water pump has literally lost its marbles. Doesn't look like the tensioner is leaking. Tension doesn't seem bad, but if stuff is seizing on me, that could explain it all. Looks like if the crank is at TDC, the drivers side lines up, but the passenger side is late. Makes sense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 How is the notch on the camshaft for the woodruff key? That'll be inportant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyfun Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 I haven't pulled the timing gears, but I'll check now that you mention it. Crank looks fine, at least. Not bad, not great. Fairly dry, at least: Idler by the water pump: Crank at TDC: Driver's side timing gear, almost looks like it's counter-clockwise 1 tooth: Passenger side timing gear, sorry for the blurry pic, but you can see the arrow at 10 oclock: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Looks like crank is o.k. Examine harmonic balancer. Idler kit, maybe crank and cam seals, WP Timing Belt and accessory belts and you're golden. Look at tensioner. And pay attention to if tensioner was slid left before it was tightened down last time. I'm starting to wonder if NOT sliding them left before tightening down the 2 bolts by folks that don't know Subaru's is a common over site. And don't forget to get that crank bolt TIGHT on reinstall. I'm parting engine so if you need anything PM me. I have TB covers, one harmonic balancer left, etc. I've had them bad enough they have screwed up the oil pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyfun Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 (edited) theimportexperts for a timing belt kit - remember to check for THEM on Ebay - sometimes a slightly better deal. Remove rad fans ( or rad) to have room for crank bolt. +1 for ''theimportexperts'' on ebay. belt, idlers and water pump, about $125 plus shipping. w/o pump ~$90, plus shipping. how long since you installed the engine? how long since the belt and idlers were done? how about the seals? any oil leaks? thanks for the pics, i wonder where the cams will end up when the crank is set on the timing mark. Their PCI kits on eBay are about $100 shipped. Mizumo Auto on Ebay has the same kits for about $93.50 shipped. Neither include a waterpump. The Gates kit without waterpump is $130 shipped at Amazon, and with waterpump $160 shipped at Amazon. Is Gates worth the few extra bucks? Supposedly they make the parts for OEMs. Edited January 25, 2012 by Cyfun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 No problems with theimportexprts but I do think folks have had problems with the Mizu. I belive import has GMB pumps. I also got some of their seals for a kit for a friend and they looked like OEM in color and quality. Also their WP gasket was the rubber covered metal like OEM that I prefer. They will also add accessory belts (I forget COnti or Dayco) real cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyfun Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 Right on, I may go that route. Apparently Gates actually makes PCI's products, they're just a slightly cheaper line. TheImportExperts has a complete timing overhaul kit for about $200. Looks like a great deal, cept I just replaced my accessory belts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 the marks you are using are great for checking the timing to see if it has jumped or not. but they are not the timing marks for installing a timing belt. i don't think it makes much difference on a non-interference engine but just so you know. thinking about it , it may be more difficult to keep the cams in the corrrect position during the install. no need to pull the cam sprockets unless you are replacing the cam seals. front seals for this engine, 2 cam, 1 crank, 2 cam cap o-rings, and 1 oil pump o-ring will run about $30 from an online dealer. i use subaru for these. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 the marks you are using are great for checking the timing to see if it has jumped or not. but they are not the timing marks for installing a timing belt. i don't think it makes much difference on a non-interference engine but just so you know. thinking about it , it may be more difficult to keep the cams in the corrrect position during the install. no need to pull the cam sprockets unless you are replacing the cam seals. front seals for this engine, 2 cam, 1 crank, 2 cam cap o-rings, and 1 oil pump o-ring will run about $30 from an online dealer. i use subaru for these. All true. I always used OEM crank/cam and WP gasket. But if you're on a budget, for all the more they cost, the last kid I got for a friend they looked the same as OEM. ANd stupid cheap. Probably cheaper than the aftermarket black ones that leak. IIR like 2-3 bucks each. FOr that price I got them to look a tthem in a friends kit. DOn't know if he ever installed them or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 I haven't pulled the timing gears, but I'll check now that you mention it. Crank looks fine, at least. Crank at TDC: Driver's side timing gear, almost looks like it's counter-clockwise 1 tooth: Passenger side timing gear, sorry for the blurry pic, but you can see the arrow at 10 oclock: Wrong marks. Valve timing marks are the hashes, not the arrows. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyfun Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 I know, arrows indicate TCD. These pics were to show how the cams lined up in relation to the crank. I have some earlier pics of the hash marks being off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyfun Posted January 28, 2012 Author Share Posted January 28, 2012 Looking for a replacement center timing cover for a phase 1 EJ22 SOHC if anyone has one. Dealer wants $56. Not bad, but I'm cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 The outer one because the harmonic balancer rubbed it? I should have some. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyfun Posted January 29, 2012 Author Share Posted January 29, 2012 Nevermind, dealer had one for $50, had to go there anyway for a thermostat. Kit came yesterday, had to run around town to find new bolts for the idlers. Didn't think I could use normal hex bolts cause it didn't look like my socket would fit in the hole, but nobody had M10x1.25 flange bolts, so i got normal bolts and luckily my 17mm socket barely fit. Got everything replaced, belt on and aligned. Hand rotated it and markes lined up. Got radiator back in and coolant, went for a drive, ran like crap. Tore it apart again today and the crank was 1 tooth off. Corrected it and now it runs great. One concern, tho, the new water pump is pretty noisy. I'm assuming its the water pump. Is this a common issue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 I'm wondering why you had to source bolts - what happened to the old ones? Is it a new WP? If so what kind of gasket and did you put any crap on the gasket? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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