scottsheppard@videotron.ca Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 Pardon the thread revival but may as well add rather than cover new ground...I just did an ej25 with head gaskets, valve covers etcetera and the rear main seal...I used the fel pro....I thought it was in the same place and perfectly Flush....leaks worse than ever now. Anyone have any experience with these seals? Assuming it was the rear seal....I did the oil separator with right stuff gasket maker....gurrrrr another weekend pulling the engine! I guess next time use Subaru genuine seals? Kind regards Scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 How fast is the leak? Dripping immediately? Did you replace the o-ring under the diamond shape access cover? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottsheppard@videotron.ca Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 yes, topped up oil, started engine and went for little drive...dribbling began...the small diamond access port looked pretty clean--never touched it...does anyone one know if the crank on the 01 legacy is the same as the 2007 (dimension wise?)...silver seal sells a 2.5 L chrome sleeve that I may put on if it fits a 2007 EJ251 engine... thanks scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xdeadeye1 Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 im in middle of doing my heads. I just put in the fel pro rear main seal,, It was leaking so I replaced it. Got me worried now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wirelessenabled Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 I replaced the manual transmission in my 00 OBW this Spring. I didn't read enough beforehand and so I replaced the rear main seal. Used a Subaru replacement, they are only $12 or so. So far no leak in about 1500 miles. Or at least not a large enough leak to be coming out of the opening in the bottom between the block and the transmission. I just cleaned it up meticulously, used a green scratch pad lightly on the crankshaft, and then polished the crankshaft with crocus cloth. Drove it in the same as the original which was slightly, maybe 1/32", deeper than flush with the block. Used a 3" ABS cap as a driver as someone stated above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottsheppard@videotron.ca Posted June 24, 2015 Share Posted June 24, 2015 @xdeadeye....I am sure you will be fine. Mine had over 200k and the crank was likely worn....I have ordered some sleeves to try out.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottsheppard@videotron.ca Posted June 24, 2015 Share Posted June 24, 2015 This was my orig seal before removal and after a quick power wash Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted June 24, 2015 Share Posted June 24, 2015 Did you rub all that crusty stuff off of the crankshaft before putting the new seal on? If there was any dirt at all on the crank it will ruin the seal. Did you apply oil or grease to the seal lip to lubricate it? I haven't used a Felpro rear main seal on a Subaru, but have used them on many other vehicles with no problems. The ones that I see leak are either driven in crooked, or the crank wasn't clean enough, or the seal was damaged in some way during installation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darsdoug Posted June 24, 2015 Share Posted June 24, 2015 (edited) In my Haynes manual it says the oil capacity of a 1996 EJ22 is 4.2 quarts. Often I see people dumping the entire contents of a five quart jug of oil in when changing their oil and filter. Can running EJ22's at "over-capacity" by 0.8 qt. cause the rear main to blow-out and/or leak? About 2 wks. ago I helped a friend replace the clutch and pressure plate in his 1999 EJ25d Outback. At that time we replaced the rear main seal and re-sealed the plastic separator plate after observing oil within the bellhousing and on the back of the block. I watched him put a thin smear of permatex on the OD of the rear main when he installed it. (I didn't say anything> see profile pic. ha ha) We bought the seal from Napa. They could not find a "separator plate" in their system. (I saw that coming). I'll swing by his place and check for oil where he parks it tomorrow. Edited June 24, 2015 by darsdoug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottsheppard@videotron.ca Posted June 25, 2015 Share Posted June 25, 2015 Turns out I am likely ok...this little bugger was the culprit spraying oil everywhere. Looking thru the access hole on top of tranny, the inside looks dry and no oil... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted June 25, 2015 Share Posted June 25, 2015 Can running EJ22's at "over-capacity" by 0.8 qt. cause the rear main to blow-out and/or leak?Short answer: No. Long answer. Overfilling doesn't increase the engines oil pressure, or even the crankcase pressure. What it can do, if filled beyond a certain point, is fill the oil pan, and when the crankshaft is turning it can cause the throws and counter weights of the crankshaft to actually hit the oil. It creates a hammering affect which dmages the crankshaft, and will also cause the oil to cavitate and can turn it into foam. The oil pump can't pump foam, so when that happens the bearings don't get proper lubrication. Depending on how far overfilled the oil is, it can also block off drain passages where oil drains from the heads, which will alter the way air flows through the block to carry out crankcase vapors. This can then cause normal blowby pressure to start pushing oil up through the breather hoses or the PCV tubes. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darsdoug Posted June 25, 2015 Share Posted June 25, 2015 Short answer: No. Long answer. Overfilling doesn't increase the engines oil pressure, or even the crankcase pressure. What it can do, if filled beyond a certain point, is fill the oil pan, and when the crankshaft is turning it can cause the throws and counter weights of the crankshaft to actually hit the oil. It creates a hammering affect which dmages the crankshaft, and will also cause the oil to cavitate and can turn it into foam. The oil pump can't pump foam, so when that happens the bearings don't get proper lubrication. Depending on how far overfilled the oil is, it can also block off drain passages where oil drains from the heads, which will alter the way air flows through the block to carry out crankcase vapors. This can then cause normal blowby pressure to start pushing oil up through the breather hoses or the PCV tubes. Whoa! (I never knew that). Hope everyone see's this. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dinky26 Posted June 25, 2015 Share Posted June 25, 2015 Short answer: No. Long answer. Overfilling doesn't increase the engines oil pressure, or even the crankcase pressure. What it can do, if filled beyond a certain point, is fill the oil pan, and when the crankshaft is turning it can cause the throws and counter weights of the crankshaft to actually hit the oil. It creates a hammering affect which dmages the crankshaft, and will also cause the oil to cavitate and can turn it into foam. The oil pump can't pump foam, so when that happens the bearings don't get proper lubrication. Depending on how far overfilled the oil is, it can also block off drain passages where oil drains from the heads, which will alter the way air flows through the block to carry out crankcase vapors. This can then cause normal blowby pressure to start pushing oil up through the breather hoses or the PCV tubes. Good to know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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