So, I Bought a GL-10 That's Been Sitting for 4-5 Years. Help?

[Coatchawa]

So here's the thing. I have a buddy in Virginia that got this car for free from a friend. According to both of them, the car has been sitting for a good 4-5 years, outdoors, under a tree. (the inspection tag is dated 2006). And as hard to believe as it is, he says all he had to do was take off the old battery, clean the terminals, jump it, and it was absolutely fine - cranked right up, even with the 4-5 year old gas.

 

The idle in this thing is a little rough, but not worrisome. Sometimes you have to hit the starter a few times to get it to crank. And the ignition switch is going out - sometimes, you can take out the key and it'll still be running.

 

Other than those issues, the car, amazingly, does not seem to leak. He has had this car garaged for a good month now, and there are no signs of any leaks. The motor and transmission are both at about 137k.

 

I test drove it, and once you get past the rough idle, the thing runs like a dream. I had it up to 85-90, and it didn't even shake - though, the steering wheel is upside down - any thoughts on that? I would normally never think about driving something like this unless there was a complete tune-up, with all the fluids flushed, but he's had it this fast several times. Kind of makes me want to cringe.

 

The engine has no obvious ticking noises, blue smoke, grey smoke, etc, and seems like it has plenty of life left in it. My concerns are - fluids, belts, and rubber hoses. The hoses are not leaking AT ALL, but I want to know what you guys think. Would this be safe the way it is for a 200 mile interstate drive (mostly 60mph), so I can have everything changed?

 

Oh, another funny thing about the car. The headlights are there, but, they are almost non-existant. You turn on the headlights in the dark, and it's like they do nothing, even though you can see them turn on from the front. If you want ANY kind of lights, you have to use the high beams, and they work about half as good as regular lights on a regular car. Thought that was kind of cool.

[Coatchawa]

And let me add - this thing drives like a TANK. I feel like I could have hit a medium-large bear, and not have noticed it

 

After turning on the A/C / Heat for the first time I, along with the entire interior was covered with black suit. Still works though! Ice cold. Oh, the sunroof still works, keeps the seal, and is b-e-a-utiful.

[GeneralDisorder]

Is this a turbo or non turbo? And what year? GL-10 is pretty much meaningless - it's a trim level and accesory package that changed virtually yearly.

 

GD

[Coatchawa]

Yeah, I know it's just a trim level.

It is a 1987 4wd turbo.

Edited January 26, 2012 by Coatchawa

[GeneralDisorder]

EA82 Turbo. Many here consider this the worst Subaru engine made. They blow head gaskets, crack heads, and are generally just a huge pain in the neck.

 

If you really plan to drive it a long distance - no one here would do that without changing every rubber bit on that engine - especially the coolant hoses and lines, thermostat (dealer only), and checking it over really well.

 

Go to the DEALER and order EVERY coolant hose listed for the car. Only the dealer will list them ALL. This is standard practice for all older turbocharged cars.

 

GD

[Coatchawa]

I appreciate your advice. Any idea how much it would run to order all of the coolant hoses, etc? It's from a stealership, so that kind of scares me...

[zukiru]

do you know the house in johnson city with all the XTs?

 

 

anyway. I drove a turbo xt (same engine) 1700 miles home.

 

 

I would risk a 200 mile drive if it doesn't get hot.

if it's overheating simply DON'T DO IT!

[GeneralDisorder]

I drove a turbo xt (same engine) 1700 miles home.

I would risk a 200 mile drive if it doesn't get hot.

 

And I've driven an 87 turbo wagon 100 miles and had the head gaskets blow out. And so have many folks here.

 

After sitting for that long - anything could happen.

 

Probably be about $150 to $200 for all the hoses.

 

GD

[john in KY]

I have the two "turbo" hoses around here somewhere. Had them for my 90 turbo wagon but never installed them.

[Coatchawa]

do you know the house in johnson city with all the XTs?

 

 

anyway. I drove a turbo xt (same engine) 1700 miles home.

 

 

I would risk a 200 mile drive if it doesn't get hot.

if it's overheating simply DON'T DO IT!

 

Not a clue. Is the house in the old part of town?

 

And yeah, if it was showing any sign of overheating, I would never try it. I know how the EA22t is with head gaskets.

[Coatchawa]

And I've driven an 87 turbo wagon 100 miles and had the head gaskets blow out. And so have many folks here.

 

After sitting for that long - anything could happen.

 

Probably be about $150 to $200 for all the hoses.

 

GD

 

Yeah, anything could happen. And that means anything. But for a $200 car, I figure it's worth taking a chance on. I mean hey, its a good chance that after new hoses, fluids and anything else I can think of, I can get to maybe 180k.

 

$150-$200 is about what I was expecting for the hoses.

[Coatchawa]

I have the two "turbo" hoses around here somewhere. Had them for my 90 turbo wagon but never installed them.

 

Any chance you'd part with them?

[Quidam]

So here's the thing. I have a buddy in Virginia that got this car for free from a friend. According to both of them, the car has been sitting for a good 4-5 years, outdoors, under a tree. (the inspection tag is dated 2006). And as hard to believe as it is, he says all he had to do was take off the old battery, clean the terminals, jump it, and it was absolutely fine - cranked right up, even with the 4-5 year old gas.

 

The idle in this thing is a little rough, but not worrisome. Sometimes you have to hit the starter a few times to get it to crank. And the ignition switch is going out - sometimes, you can take out the key and it'll still be running.

 

Other than those issues, the car, amazingly, does not seem to leak. He has had this car garaged for a good month now, and there are no signs of any leaks. The motor and transmission are both at about 137k.

 

I test drove it, and once you get past the rough idle, the thing runs like a dream. I had it up to 85-90, and it didn't even shake - though, the steering wheel is upside down - any thoughts on that? I would normally never think about driving something like this unless there was a complete tune-up, with all the fluids flushed, but he's had it this fast several times. Kind of makes me want to cringe.

 

The engine has no obvious ticking noises, blue smoke, grey smoke, etc, and seems like it has plenty of life left in it. My concerns are - fluids, belts, and rubber hoses. The hoses are not leaking AT ALL, but I want to know what you guys think. Would this be safe the way it is for a 200 mile interstate drive (mostly 60mph), so I can have everything changed?

 

Oh, another funny thing about the car. The headlights are there, but, they are almost non-existant. You turn on the headlights in the dark, and it's like they do nothing, even though you can see them turn on from the front. If you want ANY kind of lights, you have to use the high beams, and they work about half as good as regular lights on a regular car. Thought that was kind of cool.

 

Hey there, Here's my '87, I went to Chatanooga and picked it up. It's real clean being from that part of the country.

 

No leaks, drips, smoke etc. sounds good. Almost like it was someones maintained driver that died or something.

 

How's the tires? Rot happens where they meet the dirt, if it sat on dirt. I'd be concerned about it running lean with dirty injectors, overheat, boom. Take it easy on the old girl huh? If you boost it right off too much it might kill it. It's that lean out on the fuel I'm thinking of. Keep posting, we'll be here.

 

Doug

[Coatchawa]

No leaks, drips, smoke etc. sounds good. Almost like it was someones maintained driver that died or something.

 

How's the tires? Rot happens where they meet the dirt, if it sat on dirt. I'd be concerned about it running lean with dirty injectors, overheat, boom. Take it easy on the old girl huh? If you boost it right off too much it might kill it. It's that lean out on the fuel I'm thinking of. Keep posting, we'll be here.

 

Doug

 

Yeah, for real! Not even noticeable rust on it, even on the frame. There's a quarter panel that has a little starting on it, but it doesn't look that hard to fix or have fixed.

 

The tires themselves were replaced before the car was started for the first time, so it could be moved to be worked on. They were used tires - but there's a good 75% of the tread on them, and they all match. It was like $40 for the set, mounted. The spare looks like the tire that CAME with the car, sooo yeah, I don't think it would hold air for very long if at all. You have my word that I'll take it easy on her for a while. It's not like I plan on jumping in a car going on 25 years old, and gunning it like a new turbo.

[Durania]

Sounds like you have some disposable income. You would be a 1000x better off buying a first gen Legacy and have something that has a motor that blows the EA82T out of the water and could maybe be somewhat reliable.

[Coatchawa]

Sounds like you have some disposable income. You would be a 1000x better off buying a first gen Legacy and have something that has a motor that blows the EA82T out of the water and could maybe be somewhat reliable.

 

I have some disposable income just because of income taxes coming back and everything, but not enough to start anything besides a cheap project. It's the free time I have lately I need to do something with. I figure a $200 project would be fairly sensible. Plus I could always part out some things and get back my $200, easy, if I did something like blow the gaskets or the transmission fries.

[john in KY]

Hey there, Here's my '87, I went to Chatanooga and picked it up. It's real clean being from that part of the country.

 

No leaks, drips, smoke etc. sounds good. Almost like it was someones maintained driver that died or something.

 

How's the tires? Rot happens where they meet the dirt, if it sat on dirt. I'd be concerned about it running lean with dirty injectors, overheat, boom. Take it easy on the old girl huh? If you boost it right off too much it might kill it. It's that lean out on the fuel I'm thinking of. Keep posting, we'll be here.

 

Doug

 

I almost bought that car. Still regret I wasn't faster on the trigger.

[MilesFox]

Yes, replace all the hoses. for the skinny hoses, make sure you get coolng hoses and not fuel hoses. The suggestion of going with OEM subaru hoses is that they will be molded to fit correctly.

 

First thing i would do is change the coolant. Make sure the radiator is not corrodes.

 

And since the car has sat, take a look at the timing belts. Replace them as a safeguard, and replace the water pump while you are at it.

 

If you want to guarantee reliability, cooling system is #1 priority. Next is timing belt, but if it breaks, there is no damage other than being stranded(keep a spare in the trunk)

 

Next, as far as sitting goes, get under the car and check the fuel and brake lines for rust. The lines are most likely to be rusty/fail where they clip into the body fasteners, and where they come through the grommets under the back seat, and through the passenger side cargo hold.

 

Lastly, go around and inspect the brakes. If they look like they got some life in the pads and rotor, go ahead and dismount the calipers and use a silicone lube to grease the slide pins. Replace the rubber if you like, but i like to apply the silicone grease around the rubber and around the piston boot if i am using it as it is. This is a preventive measure. You should pop the pads out and apply grease where they slide. (silicone grease!!! wheel grease will cause braking problems)

[Quidam]

This

"Originally Posted by Durania

Sounds like you have some disposable income. You would be a 1000x better off buying a first gen Legacy and have something that has a motor that blows the EA82T out of the water and could maybe be somewhat reliable."

 

And other off topic posts is why I blocked him a few days ago. They just can't resist with childish behavior. And then, look who pops up.

 

Doug

Edited January 27, 2012 by Quidam

[GeneralDisorder]

That's not off-topic. It's ADVICE - which is what forums are for.

 

What do you expect from my step-son?

 

I keep wondering how that's possible without being married....

 

Go ahead and block everyone - makes the forum pretty much useless. And since you have all the answers I don't see why you come here Doug. *I* come here because I like helping people. Sometimes that means I have to tell them hard truths like "buy a Legacy!". But I don't block anyone - even you. That would be counter to the point of an OPINION based forum. All opinions are welcome - even your's. But don't expect to not get some $h1t about it once it a while.

 

As for a $200 project car - well it's definitely that. Most of us would rather not deal with that headache of an engine but that's your call. MANY people have come and gone over the EA82T. They just get tired of replacing engines.

 

GD

Edited January 27, 2012 by GeneralDisorder

[Cyfun]

Instead of spending hundreds of dollars on hoses, keep an eye out for a naturally aspirated ea82 motor or prepare for an EJ22 swap. You could probably find an ea82 motor for $200.

 

Or if you've got the cash, WRX swap. That Foreign Engines JDM importer in Washington state has STI engine swap setups with engine, trans, wiring harness and ECU for about $3000 shipped.

[Quidam]

Instead of spending hundreds of dollars on hoses, keep an eye out for a naturally aspirated ea82 motor or prepare for an EJ22 swap. You could probably find an ea82 motor for $200.

 

Or if you've got the cash, WRX swap. That Foreign Engines JDM importer in Washington state has STI engine swap setups with engine, trans, wiring harness and ECU for about $3000 shipped.

 

Jeez Louise. Another off topic post. You think at this point the OP is thinking about ANY swap? So why disrupt HIS thread with your OFF TOPIC posts?

 

Did you actually offer him anything constructive to getting it home? No.

 

Worthless post right there, so why did you waste everyones time?

 

I want to know.

 

Sincerely,

 

Doug

[john in KY]

Any chance you'd part with them?

 

Sure. Found the 2 hoses for the turbo and both radiator hoses. All new, never installed. $35 shipped. I'll post a photo if interested. You can PM me after you have racked more than 10 posts.

John

[Quidam]

Another option on the two heater hoses from engine to firewall is just use regular heater hose. As Miles said, factory is formed but the other is much cheaper and works fine, just don't cut them short.

 

The 90* water pump hose is really kind of generic. A Ford or whatever hose of that shape and size is easily found at any parts store.

 

There is a little coolant hose thermostat to block and NAPA carries the correct size on a spool. It's small for a coolant hose.

 

Doug

Edited January 27, 2012 by Quidam

[Coatchawa]

Yes, replace all the hoses. for the skinny hoses, make sure you get coolng hoses and not fuel hoses. The suggestion of going with OEM subaru hoses is that they will be molded to fit correctly.

 

First thing i would do is change the coolant. Make sure the radiator is not corrodes.

 

And since the car has sat, take a look at the timing belts. Replace them as a safeguard, and replace the water pump while you are at it.

 

If you want to guarantee reliability, cooling system is #1 priority. Next is timing belt, but if it breaks, there is no damage other than being stranded(keep a spare in the trunk)

 

Next, as far as sitting goes, get under the car and check the fuel and brake lines for rust. The lines are most likely to be rusty/fail where they clip into the body fasteners, and where they come through the grommets under the back seat, and through the passenger side cargo hold.

 

Lastly, go around and inspect the brakes. If they look like they got some life in the pads and rotor, go ahead and dismount the calipers and use a silicone lube to grease the slide pins. Replace the rubber if you like, but i like to apply the silicone grease around the rubber and around the piston boot if i am using it as it is. This is a preventive measure. You should pop the pads out and apply grease where they slide. (silicone grease!!! wheel grease will cause braking problems)

 

OEM is always nice, but it might not be a great option for a $200 car. Right now, the value of this thing goes up and down depending on how much gas is in it

 

And you're saying that if the timing belt(s) break, it won't cause any severe damage other than being stranded? That's actually really reassuring. The belts didn't look old or cracked, but I'm sure they would need to at the VERY least be re-tentioned for a while.

 

The brakes felt a little mushy, and I didn't get the chance to actually take a wheel off to look at them. So your guess is as good as mine as to what's going on with them. They'll defenately need some kind of work of some kind, I'm sure. Thanks for the advice on the calipers. A little preventative maintenance goes a long ways sometimes.

 

Thanks Miles!

 

 

 

Instead of spending hundreds of dollars on hoses, keep an eye out for a naturally aspirated ea82 motor or prepare for an EJ22 swap. You could probably find an ea82 motor for $200.

 

Or if you've got the cash, WRX swap. That Foreign Engines JDM importer in Washington state has STI engine swap setups with engine, trans, wiring harness and ECU for about $3000 shipped.

 

If this motor turns out to be just outlandishly horrible, an EJ22 swap would defenately be an option. WRX in a 87 Subar GL though? Not on my budget, not for this car. The thought does appeal to me though XD

 

 

 

Sure. Found the 2 hoses for the turbo and both radiator hoses. All new, never installed. $35 shipped. I'll post a photo if interested. You can PM me after you have racked more than 10 posts.

John

 

Sweet. I'll send you a PM.

 

 

 

Another option on the two heater hoses from engine to firewall is just use regular heater hose. As Miles said, factory is formed but the other is much cheaper and works fine, just don't cut them short.

 

The 90* water pump hose is really kind of generic. A Ford or whatever hose of that shape and size is easily found at any parts store.

 

There is a little coolant hose thermostat to block and NAPA carries the correct size on a spool. It's small for a coolant hose.

 

Doug

 

Agreed. I don't think the differance between OEM and just regular 'ol heater hose is big enough to think about. I'm sure I'll do a little more research and visit some of the auto parts stores around here.