1997reduxe Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 (edited) Ok, here's my story. (This is my third Legacy I've driven/maintained, so I know the typical maint. routine). When I bought my present 95 car, about 2.5 yrs ago, I had absolutely no vehicle, and HAD to get a car so I bought it even though it was a total salvage, had been hit in the rear (repaired,) and was locked into FWD with the fuse. It was very nice inside Lsi, sunroof, etc, when I drove it, other than the ant farm in between the rear rugs, mats, etc, and as soon as I drove it it ran so well I knew I wanted it. It's run pretty much without incident for about 2.5 years, little things like starter, alternator, now it may need a battery soon. (It still turns over.) I have run it with the FWD fuse in the entire time, and don't plan to even try taking it out. (I live in Houston and don't really care about AWD, unlike when I lived in PA) But, recently, like about 6 months ago, it has had this growling thing in the rear, which I thought it was a wheel bearing but it never gets much worse, and I think it's the differential cause I took it to a shop to change diff. oil and there was a lot of metal in the oil and on the plug. It quieted it somewhat after the oil change, but I'm sure it's going to get worse. My question is, since I am going to leave it in FWD, can I really remove certain parts (like the differential, rather than rebuilding or replacing with a used one?) I remember another post on usmb a long time ago where someone referenced leaving (I think) the drive shaft, that you had to keep in because certain fluid, (maybe the transaxle?) would escape? I mean, has anyone really done this? Or should I just get the diff. rebuilt? Thanks for any help. '97 Edited January 27, 2012 by 1997reduxe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unibrook Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 I am very interested in any solution you decide to try. Please do post as you go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 I think grossgary might have converted one to FWD. I think you unbolt the drive shaft, but leave the length coming out of the tail section of the trans. The differential I think is trickier, because of the axles. I think you can't remove the rear axles completely because that's what helps keep the hub in place. But possibly disassembling the outer joint and just leaving the piece that goes through the hub in place might work, then the rear diff could be removed too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 You could pull the diff apart and remove the ring gear. You could do that and remove the rear axles except for the end CV joints (which hold the wheel bearings together). You could remove the driveshaft to the rear diff if you figure a way to seal it (if you can't just do what's mentioned in the previous post) 'Easiest' way to seal it would be to just seal the hole the driveshaft comes out of. If you pull the driveshaft and there's nothing sticking out you could pull the seal and JB-weld a disc of metal where the seal goes, or do the same for a metal plate that covers the opening. If some shaft sticks out you'd have to pull the tail housing and remove that shaft somehow. Of course if the driveshaft also engages a bearing and it supports the output shaft, that'd be a bit more difficult. If you pulled the tail housing off you could gut everything that transfers power to the driveshaft and just leave it and the entire rear diff in place, just remove the rear half-shafts except for the outer CV joints, as mentioned. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1997reduxe Posted January 27, 2012 Author Share Posted January 27, 2012 I did find the old post I had done on similar topic a long while back. (But this was on my old 97 car.) just for info's sake.) http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=97335 '97 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1997reduxe Posted January 27, 2012 Author Share Posted January 27, 2012 another post on same topic. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=123480&highlight=remove+drive+shaft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoupedUpSubie Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 There is actually a kit made for this Double Plus Racing runs one they made. You can also buy the kit for around $500. From there it's just modifying a couple shafts so there is a stub. Then no need for a rear diff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 For 500.00 he could fix the AWD, I think he is trying to do this on the cheap. I think in this case the easiest thing may be to mechanically neuter the real diff. I do wonder though what would happen if you removed the duty c and found some way to hold it open. Since this is a 4eat you cant just drop the driveshaft. In theroy you could keep the shaft between the tranny and carrier bearing, but the shaft is one peice unless for this discussion. There is always the possability of taking apart the rear half shafts and just have the stubs remain. I dont see why that wouldnt work as I sit here at my desk (meaning I may be wrong). I would do both sides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 Fastest way would be to cut the rear axles off with a torch right where they go into the CV joint at the hub end on both sides in the back, then pull the rear section of drive shaft and the differential. Leave the front section with the carrier bearing in as a plug for the rear of the transmission. Pull the FWD fuse out so the light goes off on the dash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 Not everyone has a torch, hence my manual labor aproach. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 Not everyone has a torch... Those poor blighters... can't something be done? dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoupedUpSubie Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 If I were to just "blank" off the ends of each joint I would find a shop with a lathe to cut off the extra and make it nice. Total of 2 minutes per stub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 Those poor blighters... can't something be done? dave Well can start by building me a garage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 The 4.99 air cutoff tool from Harbor Freight could chop the axle in two. When is not available, zzz is the next option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 The 4.99 air cutoff tool from Harbor Freight could chop the axle in two.When is not available, zzz is the next option. Where do I put the air compressor then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red92 Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 Where do I put the air compressor then? Right next to the popcorn maker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 So I'm not getting a garage then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 if he's been running in FWD and getting noise out of the rear diff, removing jut the rear section of the drive shaft isn't going to be enough. so either the rear diff has to come out and the rear axles modified or just the axles need to be modified. by modified i mean leave the wheel hub section of the rear axle in place but remove the rest of the axle. once the drive shaft and axles are disconnected from the diff, removing the diff is optional, but you might want to drain the fluid out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 So I'm not getting a garage then Would this one work? It fits a Subaru in the bottom.... http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=99061 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 Works for me, ill even give up my veggie garden for it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 (edited) Fastest way would be to cut the rear axles off with a torch right where they go into the CV joint at the hub end on both sides in the back, then pull the rear section of drive shaft and the differential. Leave the front section with the carrier bearing in as a plug for the rear of the transmission. Pull the FWD fuse out so the light goes off on the dash. These axles aren't that difficult to disassemble. Drop the rear diff out of the way, cut the CV boot off and just tug on the axle shaft until the cir-clips on the outer end pops out of the bearing. Then you can twist the bearing holder and remove it and you're left with an empty axle cup bolted to the hub. No axle shafts or bearings in them to throw off balance and cause vibration when driving. No ball bearings to turn into missiles aimed at the windshields of the cars behind you. The rear section of the driveshaft can be removed and the rest left alone. I've been contemplating doing this to my Wagon as well. Nothing wrong with the AWD on it, but I just don't need it. I have another Subaru which I would rather drive in snow/rough weather anyway. And I think I would get a decent boost in MPG from not having to drag the AWD stuff around all the time. Edited January 28, 2012 by Fairtax4me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1997reduxe Posted January 28, 2012 Author Share Posted January 28, 2012 john was nice enough to write me a very detailed message about this, so I'm posting just to keep my whole process intact: the drive shaft has 2 sections, the front piece fits into the rear of the auto trans and the rear main seal for the trans actually seals against the first piece of the drive shaft . so you have to leave that in place. the first section ends at a carrier bearing, support bearing, and a cross member that holds it in place. this is all part of the front section and must stay. the rear section has 4, 12mm, bolts and nuts that hold it to the front section and 4 more that hold it to the rear diff. it is a long pipe with a u-joint on each end and a flange that bolts to the other section / diff. it is east ot remove . the rear diff is a little more difficult to remove but still can be done. the only thing you have to do is leave the axle splined ends in the hubs so the wheel bearings done fail. the outer CV joint of the axle has a splined piece of the long middle shaft that fits into the joint of the outer piece of the axle that fits in the wheel hub. there is a cir-clip that keeps it in place. if you remove the axle, and then the boot, you can hold the long shaft and hammer on the outer joint and the cir-clip will give up and the2 pieces will separate. the wheel hub piece has to be re-installed in the hub and torqued. i have always thought you could figure a way to do this with out removing the axle from the car by i have never tried. once the axles have been ''modified'' and the stubs are back in place in the hubs, there is no real reason to remove the rear diff except for weight. and that is only 30 lbs??, maybe less, so that's work you don't have to do. you might review the info at http://opposedforces.com/parts you see just what i/m talking about with the axles. good luck, john Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 If I were to just "blank" off the ends of each joint I would find a shop with a lathe to cut off the extra and make it nice. Total of 2 minutes per stub. That is some hard stuff... better use the good parting bit! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 the outer CV joint of the axle has a splined piece of the long middle shaft that fits into the joint of the outer piece of the axle that fits in the wheel hub. there is a cir-clip that keeps it in place. if you remove the axle, and then the boot, you can hold the long shaft and hammer on the outer joint and the cir-clip will give up and the2 pieces will separate. the wheel hub piece has to be re-installed in the hub and torqued. i have always thought you could figure a way to do this with out removing the axle from the car by i have never tried. john I could build a tool to do it, but a) would the axle slide far enough into the inner joint and what would it get you? Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 once the axles have been ''modified'' and the stubs are back in place in the hubs, there is no real reason to remove the rear diff except for weight. and that is only 30 lbs??, maybe less, so that's work you don't have to do. Either the lower lateral link bolts on both sides have to come out or the diff has to come out to get the axles out of the hubs. Since the lateral link bolts are usually a whore to get out, and the diff is going to be surplus, it makes sense to pull the diff to get the axles out. They're closer to 50lbs I'd say just from hefting them around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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