Doing timing belt - suggestions?

[IdiotSavant]

Hey guys,

 

The time has come to do the timing belt on my 99 legacy GT.

 

I'm also taking this opportunity to do a bunch of other things such as:

 

- Tensioner

- Idler pulleys

- Water Pump and thermostat

- Cam and crank seals

- Radiator hoses

- Valve cover gaskets(leaking)

- Replace oil pan(leaking)

- Transmission and differential fluids

- Fuel Filter

- PCV Vale

- Oil pump reseal

 

My question is, are there are things I should be looking at, considering the timing covers will be off?

 

The engine has 150 000 kilometers and has had nothing done besides routine maintenance.

 

Another question, is it worth it to consider doing my head gaskets preemptively? I'm not experiencing any failing head gasket symptoms, but considering the age of the engine and the fact that a lot of labor is going into all the other work I'm having done, do you think I should go for it?

 

Thanks for your input. It's always much appreciated.

[davebugs]

If you're yanking the engine reseal baffle plate.

 

Make SURE it's the oil pan, it's usually the baffle plate leaking and coming out where eng/trans mate up, runs down oil pan ans onto Ypipe.

 

I also do accessory belts while they are off.

[1 Lucky Texan]

seems very thorough. unrelated but, if the brake and PS fluids are old, maybe flush/change them. particularly brake fluid - it absorbs moisture.

 

Is the oil pan dented? If so, double check the oil pick-up tubed for cracks/bends.

[porcupine73]

If removing the engine anyway, I don't think many people would fault you for replacing the HG's. Then you can also check+adjust valve clearance. I think that has the shim style buckets? I think with the engine out you can do those without the $$$ special tool.

[MilesFox]

^^^ I was gonna say that doing the HG is not a bad idea, but puling the engine would be the excuse to do them. That and you can get to the baffle plate on the back, and have a chance to scrub down the engine crossmember and frame while it's out.

 

If you know what you are doing, you can dismount the ps pump and the ac compressor and swing them out of the way. less mess, and no compromise to the ac, or epa violations.

 

Be aware that after servicing hte water pump or opening the cooling system, and especially doing the head gaskets (dry block) that it will be particular on how you re-fill the cooling system in regards to burping out any air pockets.

 

It is recommended that you fill the block by the upper hose first before filling the radiator.

[IdiotSavant]

Thanks for all the quick replies.

 

They are not going to be removing the engine, but I assume that it wouldn't add too much to the cost of labor to remove it(4 hours total I'm guessing ).

 

At the same time, it would make the timing belt and valve cover work much easier with the engine out.

 

If I decide to pull the engine, I will definitely have them do the baffle plate.

 

The P/S and brake fluids are also due, so I added those to my list.

 

Thanks again.

[roger1]

From the quote "when all all fails read the book" in regard to tensioner. If you choose to use old one. You need compress it and pin it. You need a vise and turn slowly to let it "catch" as and it takes 15 to 45 seconds before you can crank down some more with vise. A 4 penny nail or drill bit will lock in compressed state till tim / belt is properly set. I learned hard way and had to buy a new tensioner. at <> $100 at 2000 price. Hope this helps!!!

 

The oem belt from Subaru has belt marked so its easy to if on right tooth count which I'm sure after market ones do.

[porcupine73]

Yes slowwww and easy on the tensioner, endwrench article used to say it should take at least 10 minutes to compress it, else you risk damaging it. The older tensioners were more resilient.