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Ginger, the starter slayer...


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My 1988 XT GL is the chosen one. She was selected by the council of elders to go on a crusade a crusade that would end the lives of many starters.

 

I've been through 3 starters sense having the car.

the last one just to be sure was the good one out of my 86 XTDL.

 

there's no noise no fuss just turn the key and no starter.

Once it happens they are dead and won't work in another car.

 

the time is come to end her reign of terror upon the starters of the world!

help me usmb, to destroy the evil starter killing car!

Edited by zukiru
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Its something in the car. I'm almost certain of that

 

but I'll do that on this 1 and see what happens

 

just a little further information the first one was a stock oem unit... Not sure who put it in.

 

the second 1 was an ebay buy

this third 1 is a napa rebuilt from my 86 DL, which had been in my car since I bought it back in 2008.

 

The owner from 2003 had posted on subaru xt.com about starting issues...

Edited by zukiru
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strange.

The owner from 2003 had posted on subaru xt.com about starting issues...
classic!

 

have you done any voltage, draw, impedance, or electrical testing at the starter?

 

i think we need an electrical guru to get the ball started but helping determine (or maybe you already know Drew?) whether or not it's the solenoid frying or the starter itself?

 

if it's the starter would it likely be happening while the starter is being used or is there any way it could be something happening while driving when the starter isn't doing anything (that is hard to imagine?).

 

if it's the starter then i'd be tempted to pull one open and see what it looks like and see if you could track down something simple.

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Since you don't get any clicking or anything, it sounds like the electromagnet that moves the plunger doesn't work. Even when the contacts go bad you stick get a distinct CLICK when you turn the key.

 

So first thing I'd check is take a dead starter and see if there's any continuity from ground to the little spade connecter to the coil. If there isn't, it's somehow frying that.

 

Maybe the ignition is always supplying a little bit of power to the coil which overheats it over time and fries the little wires.

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Since you don't get any clicking or anything, it sounds like the electromagnet that moves the plunger doesn't work. Even when the contacts go bad you stick get a distinct CLICK when you turn the key.

 

So first thing I'd check is take a dead starter and see if there's any continuity from ground to the little spade connecter to the coil. If there isn't, it's somehow frying that.

 

Maybe the ignition is always supplying a little bit of power to the coil which overheats it over time and fries the little wires.

 

And I was just reading about a similar condition on an outback forum so I think I'm gonna look into that further. Johninky had suggested a relay, and I had tried that with what I feel now was a roasted starter. So I'll look into that too.

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If there's a problem with the ignition circuit just add a relay under the hood. When you turn the key have the relay switch direct battery power to the solenoid.

I had to do that in my GL because for some reason it wasn't getting enough power from the ignition to always work.

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To Gary,

I think it's a solenoid but I haven't cracked 1 open to confirm.

at this point I have simply thrown starters at it, thinking I had simply bought tired units.

 

Checking the solenoid contacts is super simple w/the starter off.

Just remove the 3 screws at the rear of the solenoid and remove the plunger.

 

I just did mine last week.

I had the click no start syndrome.On occasion,the starter would turn after a small delay.Not always an audible click.Very noticeable difference now.

 

I robbed contacts out of a toyota starter.

Current flow causes the battery contact to wear much more than the motor one,so the junkyard is full of NipponDenso solenoids w/at least one fairly good(or better) contact.

Install them as squarely as possible.

 

Here is a list of cars w/identical solenoids.

https://www.dmauto.com/web/dmauto/Catalog/NAPA_ECAT/fits/ECH/E591/

 

If I was buying new ones,I would consider replacing the battery contact w/one of the larger B,C,or D styles shown here:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml

Looks to be plenty of room.

Originals are the A style.

 

I resurfaced the plunger contact by spinning it in a drill against some 320 grit.

Also cleaned the armature commutator w/crocus cloth while the starter was off.Surprisingly,brushes were in very good shape. after 220,000 km.

Mine were .50".New is .55".Service limit is something like .30".

 

Starter is like new now.

Good for another 30 years.

Good luck.

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