kabarakh Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 Ok, so just a little while back I picked up an '83 Gl with a carb (which I know nothing about) I'm pretty good with my '88 (fuel injected) but this thing was a maze... I heard it run when i bought it, the only thing stated to be wrong with it was that it needed a new clutch. I pulled the engine, was very careful about labeling and making sure everything got reconnected where it belonged (as far as I know) and put the new clutch in. Got everything back together... and it won't start. Engine turns over, coil has spark, spark plugs have spark (just checked #4 since it was easiest to get to) Two issues begin to present themselves... First, for some reason after disconnecting the fuel lines I am not getting fuel. This is probably my fuel pump, which baffles me since I did not mess with it, but the more interesting issue is this: even after applying starting fluid directly into the carb it still will not fire. i assume it's some sort of timing issue but I've double checked all the components of my distributor (as well as the cylinder sequence on it, starting from the rear of the bay and going counterclockwise #1, #3, #2, #4.) Not sure where I should look next. The fuel issue is probably the least of my worries at this point, getting fuel to it won't help if the car won't run with a shot of ether; all it will do is flood the engine. I was under the impression that there wasn't much to the timing of one of these, the distributor itself was never adjusted after i purchased it, and the flywheel can only go on in one way as far as I could tell. Clearly I messed up something when I pulled it, any thoughts? I'm fixing it up to give to my girlfriend for her birthday and it's a surprise, so the quicker I can get this wrapped up the better off i'll be! thanks to all in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 Pull the spark plugs to inspect. Pump only runs a couple seconds w/o the engine turning,BTW. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kabarakh Posted January 31, 2012 Author Share Posted January 31, 2012 the other spark plugs are first on my list tomorrow, and I know the pump won't run without the engine turning, but even after cranking it for approximately ten seconds i still had zero fuel coming from the hose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 Check for power at the pump. If good,check ground. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kabarakh Posted January 31, 2012 Author Share Posted January 31, 2012 Ok, so I've got fuel now, and I definitely have good spark on my plugs, but the car still doesn't want to fire up. Sounds like it wants to, but just can't quite make it all the way. Any thoughts? I've done lots of searching on the forums, and have done all the troubleshooting in the HTKYSA, but I'm stumped... again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 Pulled all the plugs yet? Just because they spark when pulled,doesn`t mean they will with compression pressure applied. Consider new ones. Might as well check compression w/they are out. I would measure ignition wire resistance and verify correct timing w/a timing light while cranking. If I didn`t have a light and thought timing was incorrect(no real reason to think so in this case),I would mark the distys original position and then have a 2nd person move it thru its range of adjustment w/cranking. Check for power on the idle stop solenoid. Can`t help thinking the problem is too much fuel.Leaking float valve perhaps. Verify fuel level is at the middle of the carb sight glass.Mirror? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kabarakh Posted February 1, 2012 Author Share Posted February 1, 2012 Yeah I've pulled all the plugs and checked them, they all look clean and damn near new to me. I'll test the ignition wire and the idle stop solenoid, although as I say I heard it run when I purchased it, and I can't imagine what would have changed between now and then. I just now realized the seal on the distributor cap in between it and the housing was missing some rubber, used some cheap gasket maker and let it sit, now it still won't fire up but I am getting some backfire from it (leads me to believe the plugs are sparking just fine, and getting at least close to the right amount of fuel.) Distributor cap itself looks ok, could it possibly be a faulty vacuum advance/retard? I was under the impression that would only matter once it was under a load, it's only function to advance or retard the timing once the car is moving correct? As far as the fuel level goes, nothings leaking as far as I can tell and regardless, even with a shot of starting fluid it still won't fire up. Every piece of equipment (tractors, excavators, small machines, etc.) that I've ever worked on would always run for at least a second or two with a shot of starting fluid in it... Probably gonna go pick up some new plugs just in case, seems like a simple and easy next move. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kabarakh Posted February 2, 2012 Author Share Posted February 2, 2012 Put in new spark plugs and checked everything... no luck. Ran through all the tests... no luck. Finally got desperate and cracked the exhaust lines off of the heads... And it fired right up. retightened the exhaust once it was running and blew about a gallon of water out of the exhaust line... Apparently I just had too much backpressure or something to fire it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 :eek: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 Holy Cow! ... That's Weird. Clogged Cat / Exhaust System maybe? Some time ago I Read that if a car stays too much time unused, certain animals, such like Mice or Birds Might build a nest inside the Muffler! But if it Blew water... you must check if it works well without exhaust, or it could have a blown head gasket... Why don't you remove the entire exhaust pipes and check their Flow? Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kabarakh Posted February 3, 2012 Author Share Posted February 3, 2012 Thats next on my list, unfortunately now I have to check the headgaskets, as well as the intake manifold gaskets... It ran great without being attached to the exhaust, but as I tightened them back up it started to blow water out, and then as soon as I had them completely tight I immediately blew out a gasket somewhere, and got the most wonderful milkshake you could imagine as my coolant magically disappeared into my oil. I got it stopped in time, but I had to cover the throat with a plastic bag, it was just continuing to detonate even with the key out. Don't think I did any major damage, but definitely have to do my gaskets. Thank god I can do them with the engine in the car this time... Definitely got something plugging up my exhaust in a major way though This car has been an adventure... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyfun Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 Holy balls, that went south fast. Would it be worth replacing the whole engine? Might find a fuel injected EA82 for cheap somewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kabarakh Posted February 3, 2012 Author Share Posted February 3, 2012 Nah, nothing wrong with it beyond some blown gaskets, as far as I can tell. It didn't run for that long before shut her down. Long term I'll probably switch it to fuel injection, but for now I think just throwing some new gaskets in and blowing out my exhaust will do just fine. Of course time will tell... Even if it doesn't work I'll only be out the cost of a few gaskets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 I can see where rain could get into the exhaust while the engine is out, especially if the hood was open or off of the car. I can see how all of that water can cause some serious backpressure, which 'may", keep an engine from firing up. Just can't quite see how that led to a gasket blowing, and dumping coolant into the oilpan. One of the freezeplugs in the heads letting go would dump the coolant into the oilpan, and quickly. Just some thoughts is all..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kabarakh Posted February 5, 2012 Author Share Posted February 5, 2012 I can see where rain could get into the exhaust while the engine is out, especially if the hood was open or off of the car. I can see how all of that water can cause some serious backpressure, which 'may", keep an engine from firing up. Just can't quite see how that led to a gasket blowing, and dumping coolant into the oilpan. One of the freezeplugs in the heads letting go would dump the coolant into the oilpan, and quickly. Just some thoughts is all..... The engine was never dismantled, just pulled for the clutch. It rained, I cleaned the engine compartment (which undoubtedly contributed to the water quantity) and it also sat in a almost two feet of snow for about 2 weeks. In this case it isn't so much a 'may keep it from firing up issue...' being as how it wouldn't start until I pulled off the exhaust lines... as soon as I did it fired up on the very first crank. I was just as surprised as you, but it ran fine without any overheating whatsoever for about half an hour, maybe a little longer. Sounded great too! then I tightened the exhaust lines back up and within seconds it started to overheat and all my coolant disappeared. Maybe I'm a one in a million on it, but that's how it all went down. As far as the gaskets go, I didn't really clean the mating surfaces on the intake manifold all that well (my bad) when I put the new gaskets on and put the manifold back on. I just don't know what gasket went, but I wouldn't think that it could run that long without any issues and then instantly lose that much coolant when the exhaust was put back unless a gasket gave way. Especially since the engine was never cracked open. for all I know the exhaust still had more water in it then the engine could handle, and the gaskets on the intake just seemed like the weakest link to me given all the other factors involved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 ... and blowing out my exhaust will do just fine... I Believe that the Exhaust on that Subie will need more than just "Blow" it. Maybe you can check it by separate parts and just Change / Swap the Clogged one. Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kabarakh Posted February 5, 2012 Author Share Posted February 5, 2012 I Believe that the Exhaust on that Subie will need more than just "Blow" it. Maybe you can check it by separate parts and just Change / Swap the Clogged one. Kind Regards. good call... anything to prevent a repeat of the last debacle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kabarakh Posted February 20, 2012 Author Share Posted February 20, 2012 So got it all back together, new headgaskets, intake manifold gaskets, blew the living hell out of the exhaust etc.... Car fires right up now, but I can't seem to turn the thing off, had to choke it out with a plastic bag to the intake. Where should I look to next? I'm so close with this thing I can practically taste it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miazda Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 So it diesels when you kill the ignition? Usually that's a result of timing in my experience with old carb'd engines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 Possibilities, idle too high and spark advanced too far. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kabarakh Posted February 21, 2012 Author Share Posted February 21, 2012 So it diesels when you kill the ignition? Usually that's a result of timing in my experience with old carb'd engines. I did mess with the distributor, I'll try adjusting that next. In this case it isn't so much dieseling as simply not turning off at all... It's not a temporary thing, the car will continue to run until I smother the intake. Nonetheless I'll start there, that sounds much easier than attempting to mess with the ignition column. Appreciate the input! Now I just have to find a new clutch cable bracket so I can keep my cable stationary... other then that I'm almost there! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 I'm not in any way familiar with the carbs on these but I saw mention somewhere of an idle stop solenoid. That closes the primary throttle valve(s) when the ignition is turned off so the engine basically floods and stops firing. Dieseling is generally too much air or incorrect timing. If you're not setting timing with a light you need to get one so you can set the ignition timing properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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