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help for my bros blown WRX motor


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My brother in laws motor blew in his 02 WRX. I own an 83 coupe and have always had older gen subarus so I thought I'd post somethin here to see if anyone has any advice on if it would be cheaper to get it rebuilt or replace the motor all together. He lives in Kennewick,Wa and took his car to 2 different shops today and they both said just from hearing it run that the bottom end was bad. While at the second shop the car stopped runnin all together. He was quoted about $400.00 in labor and $2200.00 for a rebiult motor and $3000 something for a new one. That seems pretty high but I was wondering if anyone knows of a good reliable honest suby guy around Kennewick or what kind of realistic prices he wold be lookin out for . Any help on this would be much appreciated.Thanks.

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My brother in laws motor blew in his 02 WRX. I own an 83 coupe and have always had older gen subarus so I thought I'd post somethin here to see if anyone has any advice on if it would be cheaper to get it rebuilt or replace the motor all together. He lives in Kennewick,Wa and took his car to 2 different shops today and they both said just from hearing it run that the bottom end was bad. While at the second shop the car stopped runnin all together. He was quoted about $400.00 in labor and $2200.00 for a rebiult motor and $3000 something for a new one. That seems pretty high but I was wondering if anyone knows of a good reliable honest suby guy around Kennewick or what kind of realistic prices he wold be lookin out for . Any help on this would be much appreciated.Thanks.

 

 

I can't help with your specific questions, but just offering that a rebuilt shortblock from CCR engines in Colorado might be a way to go if the heads/valves seem OK. Especially if he and you can DIY it.

 

 

good luck

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I could rebuild it for less than that. Probably be about $800 labor (R&R and dissasemble/reassemble) and around $1000 machine shop and parts costs, etc. Those are high estimates but you never know how many communist gnomes have been making weapons in there :drunk:. It wouldn't be a two-day turn around at those prices but I could get it done within a reasonable time frame. If he wants fast turn-around his best option is a new engine from Subaru - which is definitely going to run at least $3k plus labor.

 

These engines run about $2500 in "good" used condition. But I wouldn't buy a used 2.0 turbo. That's a gamble I wouldn't take. Besides - I can rebuild it for less than the cost of a used engine.

 

GD

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Thanks alot GD I'll let him know if he wants to bring it 200 miles west, it would save him money and i know it will be done right. By the way im gonna give you a call pretty soon if you still wanna help me out with some work I still need a gas tank though.Oh btw is that if the engine came to you or the whole car with engine in it and to be put back in by you.

Edited by subinewby
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I could rebuild it for less than that. Probably be about $800 labor (R&R and dissasemble/reassemble) and around $1000 machine shop and parts costs, etc. Those are high estimates but you never know how many communist gnomes have been making weapons in there :drunk:. It wouldn't be a two-day turn around at those prices but I could get it done within a reasonable time frame. If he wants fast turn-around his best option is a new engine from Subaru - which is definitely going to run at least $3k plus labor.

 

These engines run about $2500 in "good" used condition. But I wouldn't buy a used 2.0 turbo. That's a gamble I wouldn't take. Besides - I can rebuild it for less than the cost of a used engine.

 

GD

 

 

+1 on not buying any used high-performance engine. Especially from a 'relatively' inexpensive sporty car - easy to imagine they were abused by a youngster before they were wrecked.

 

 

He should try to get the car or engine to you - that's a very kind offer.

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Thanks alot GD I'll let him know if he wants to bring it 200 miles west, it would save him money and i know it will be done right. By the way im gonna give you a call pretty soon if you still wanna help me out with some work I still need a gas tank though.Oh btw is that if the engine came to you or the whole car with engine in it and to be put back in by you.

 

That's for the whole car with engine - he would drive it home. If you just want me to do the engine - considerably less. I completely rebuilt a 251 and turned it into a frankenmotor for a board member recently for $830 out the door. That's with having the crank undersized .010" on the mains and .020" on the rods, one used connecting rod, block tanked, decked, and honed, new rings/rods/mains, valve job on the heads and resurfaced. And that's fully assembled with OEM head gaskets, block o-rings, rear main, etc. I didn't do the timing belt and water pump nor did I install an oil pump on it. So that's just the short block with heads installed.

 

A 2.0 would be more - mainly due to the DOHC heads which are more costly to rebuild and reshim the valves. Probably closer to $1000.

 

I have a trailer and could come get the car for gas and $100 for my day. It's hard to get away for a whole day anymore :rolleyes:

 

GD

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+1 on not buying any used high-performance engine. Especially from a 'relatively' inexpensive sporty car - easy to imagine they were abused by a youngster before they were wrecked.

 

This +1000

 

These cars are getting more and more harder to find not raped and modded to hell.

 

I would seriously consider GD's offer. That's a pretty outstanding deal.

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put a 2.2 t short block in it works better and is way tougher probly find one in pick and pull

 

Pretty unlikely to find any 22T's in good condition at the u-pull-it type places. People know what those are worth and in all my years in the yards around here I've seen maybe two or three. That's in over a decade of junk-yarding.

 

GD

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Pretty unlikely to find any 22T's in good condition at the u-pull-it type places. People know what those are worth and in all my years in the yards around here I've seen maybe two or three. That's in over a decade of junk-yarding.

 

GD

 

This is true. And if you do find one, expect to rebuild it.

The last one I got from a yard had a rod knock and I spun a cam key on one of the heads.

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There are a ton of other issues to address in trying to put an EJ22 where an EJ20 was. Wiring, sensors, exhaust, ECU: none of these match. Oh, and it won't mate up to the tranny properly either. IF somebody really wanted to put a 160 hp engine where 260+hp engine was, they'd be looking at practically rewiring everything.

 

GD, I don't doubt that you do good work, and you're always one of the most knowledgeable people on this forum, but we couldn't touch that price: we put more than $1000 in parts alone into an EJ20.

 

Emily

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^that's not entirely true. If you were using the entire long block, yes, but just the block, everything will bolt up fine. It has been done numerous times. And just because the motor has a 4 bolt bellhousing, and the tranny is 8, doesn't mean it won't bolt up properly. Again, it's been done many times. The 2.2t is a stronger motor than the 2.0t in many ways.

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There are a ton of other issues to address in trying to put an EJ22 where an EJ20 was. Wiring, sensors, exhaust, ECU: none of these match. Oh, and it won't mate up to the tranny properly either. IF somebody really wanted to put a 160 hp engine where 260+hp engine was, they'd be looking at practically rewiring everything.

 

You don't have to do it that way. The way to do it on the EJ20 WRX's is to use the EJ22T short block only. And then everything else stays EJ20. Or use the EJ22T block and EJ25D heads. That's a popular combo.

 

GD, I don't doubt that you do good work, and you're always one of the most knowledgeable people on this forum, but we couldn't touch that price: we put more than $1000 in parts alone into an EJ20.

 

Emily

 

There's a lot of parts that can be machined and reused. The pistons get bead blasted and skirt coated, the crank gets undersized and polished, and if a rod needs replaced there is a such thing as good used parts.... etc. I did say "rebuilt" not remanufactured. Sure if you bore the block oversized, replace the pistons, rods, and crank so everything is factory new and perfect then you will spend over $1k in parts. But I don't do production rebuilds - I hand build all my engines and I don't throw away a crank if it just needs to be undersized. I *have* done remanufacturing and I understand the mentality - crank is scored so we toss it in the scrap metal and order a new one! That's fine as a production policy so you don't have any one-off builds. But I don't personally do that.

 

Ultimately the parts costs for a bare long block will likely be about $150 for bearings and rings, $150 for head gaskets, block o-rings, valve covers and rear main, and possibly $20 for a used rod if the knock has destroyed it. The rest is machine work and labor. Maybe the odd valve here and there and about $2 x16 for stem seals.... but my machinist does those for me when he grinds the valves.

 

And as I said that's a bare long block. No pumps, no timing components. He may not need or want those. A good used oil pump is probably a must but the rest of his stuff could be recent. That's up to my customer - I can do that since I don't ship out engines on pallets ready to drop in.

 

You offer a product - engines that can be dropped in without having access to someone that can hand build one and or without the time investment that this takes. But people will end up paying more for that product than if they have someone like myself do it in-house. The result is probably the same either way - but I'm catering to the budget concious while you are catering to people that want faster gratification or just have no clue and have taken their car to the wrong place. ;)

 

GD

Edited by GeneralDisorder
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...you are catering to people that want faster gratification or just have no clue and have taken their car to the wrong place. ;)

 

Which is perfectly fine, may I add :) Sometimes the "fast" approach is desirable, in particular if you blow an engine every 3rd week :)

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