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yep...all on the passenger side...so i was thinking maybe some kinda issue with the coils...which are also new...but something from the computer to the coils? Which doesnt make sense to me casue then it should do it all the time...not just after it gets warm.

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Your digging too far right now. You have a set of coils working on the other side of the car, swap them and see if it follows.

 

For it to be all three missing is something common to it. Soobys fire coils by going to ground through the ECU. I am not sure how the power feeds to the coils or how it splits if at all.

 

Start by swapping coils, but to have one side work and the other ok (Still want the wet and dry compression numbers) it sounds like something is off a tooth. Even bent valves wouldnt be on all three on one side.

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i honestly dont know what the numbers are...i didnt personally do the test myself....the shop foreman did while i was on another project. As far as the coils go...i did swap the coil from numer 1 and 2 to see if it changed anything...no change...possible injectors or that circuit?

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im not arguing with you...im gonna do it myself...but what will a comporessing test prove that a leak down test wont..except give actual numbers...it no air leaks through anywhere when the valves are closed...then what is it that you are looking for? Like i said..not arguing...just learning from someone who obviously knows more than me.:)

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i suppose i could either swap those too...or find out what they are supposed to ohm out at and check that....the thing that really gets me it that it feels smooth when its missing...almost like a false code....it was running really bad before i put the new chains in...im still getting the same codes but it runs smooth.

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Seems timing related.

 

A compression test will show if the cylinder is building proper pressure. A leak down test may show minimal leakage, but it doesnt tell you if the valves don't open and close at the correct times. A compression check will tell you if the valves are opening at the right point to allow air in, and closing when necessary to build proper compression.

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Thank you fairfax :)

 

Each test has it

s own ppluses and minuses. Even if the timing is off you can get a cylinder to pass a leakdown test. The compression test (wet and dry) will tell you if things are in synch.

 

I am going to stand firm on timing as bent valves would have shown up on the leakdown.

 

Do all 6 cylinders, wet and dry, and never rely on someone elses test data unless it is in writing.

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  • 1 month later...

ok...so i let the car sit for awhile...come to find out i dont have the right adjustment on the valves...so the heads are coming off...supposed to be .15 on the intake and .20 on the exhaust...i got .03 and .08 as an average between the three cylinders....good times.:-\

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Kinda depends on the cam profile I guess. On some engines if the lash clearance isn't exactly perfect it will run like crap. Others it doesn't make any difference if it's a little tight. On the Ej25d the exhaust valve lash clearance closes up because the valve face wears, but it runs perfectly fine right up until it burns the valve.

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well..got the heads of..this is what i found on the intake side of the passenger side head.

174_0065.jpg

 

174_0064.jpg

 

174_0063.jpg

 

there is so much lip from the wear that i can even get the lifters for the number 1 cylinder out on the itake side....oh well...its only money

 

Im just really suprised that there was no noise coming from that. Any that i could hear anyway.

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