Mykeys Toy Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 I have gone through most of it twice and have a bandaid on a few things but I wanted to see if my work was going to be worth it. I pulled the carter weber intake n all and bolted on a hitatchi intake with weber have everything I need but I am getting no fuel.. I was wondering if the ECS might have something to do with the fuel pump not working or where to start looking in the a.m. before superbowl. I ask this specifically because before the swap I could hear the pump cycle when I turn the key and am not hearing it now. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 Usually the Pump does That: you can hear it for some seconds the First Tries but it just Stop working if the Engine didn't start... I Gues there could be some disconnected Sensor... but I'll Need more info about the Engine; I Guess it is the EA81 since you wrote about a Carter Weber intake being replaced with an Hitachi intake... Pics Please ! Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykeys Toy Posted February 5, 2012 Author Share Posted February 5, 2012 Yes it is.. its an 83 2wd 5 spd sedan but for all intents and purposes its an 82.. or at least has all the 82 stuff and solid front brakes but that is probably more than anyone really needed to know about the fuel issue. I think I will run to fill my gas can and try pouring a little down the carb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykeys Toy Posted February 5, 2012 Author Share Posted February 5, 2012 No joy. finished off the gas got it to run for a few seconds then dies.. GRRR so now gotta see if their is power to the pump and run the wires backwards if there isnt. Fuse is good that was convenient to check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykeys Toy Posted February 7, 2012 Author Share Posted February 7, 2012 Update! Ok I was checking things out and decided to check the fuses again I pulled the fuel/coil fuse and the pump cycled for a sec then put it back in and it cycled again. It was suggested that I check the ground but if I have no power back there ( I checked ) how am I supposed to check the ground. I am really lost Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 I'm not completely sure on that specific Subaru Model, but I believe that you can put a Temporary Direct Ground line to the electric Fuel pump, taken from nearby on the Car's Body, just to see if by doing that, the Fuel Pump will work fine. If so, the Ground line that comes on the Original wiring is the Culprit. If it still doesn't work and Both lines are Alive (Positive and Negative) Then, your Subie's Fuel pump could be Bad; if so, you can try another one there. Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykeys Toy Posted February 11, 2012 Author Share Posted February 11, 2012 Does anyone know which wire is positive and which is supposed to be negative.. I have no power at all and cannot check due to needing to be two places at once. I suppose I could run a jumper from the battery on the hot side to see which is the ground.. After I go run my errands. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykeys Toy Posted February 12, 2012 Author Share Posted February 12, 2012 Just a thought since I did the swap and got rid of the feedback carb might that have something to do with the fuel pump not getting power? I dunno just trying to cover all the bases. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desertsubaru Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 I have removed feedback carbs and replaced with a weber and the fuel pump was never affected. Are you sure its the fuel pump not running? If all else fails mount a toggle switch on your kick panel under your dash from battery power to the fuel pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykeys Toy Posted February 12, 2012 Author Share Posted February 12, 2012 Slowly making a little progress. Ok so recruited my wife turn the key and crank and I have power but the pump seems to be resistant to work with me. I have power Yay! but no pump unless I pull the fuse and replace it to make it cycle again. So now to see if I have a working pump laying around waiting for work. 15 minutes later..Found one. Some crap different pump:dead: I will swap fpcu at some point but for now I will wire it to acc power Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykeys Toy Posted February 26, 2012 Author Share Posted February 26, 2012 finally got back to playing with it.. aside from I need to fab up a different throttle cable holder ( doesn't allow the return spring to completely return) I can't seem to get the carb to tune.. So I need to see if or where the exhaust leak is. engine is warm not hot but the gauge did not move. I am thinking 1 stick of dynomite should do. give me a few days and I may reconsider.. just darn frustrating when a weekend job takes weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 quote, just darn frustrating when a weekend job takes weeks. end quote. Try over a year on latest "simple fix" or 6+ years on "simple upgrade". But yeah, I hear you............. Nothing seems to want to co-operate............................ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykeys Toy Posted February 28, 2012 Author Share Posted February 28, 2012 I am not still thinking of blowing it up anymore ...still flustered though. I mentioned exhaust leak when I meant vacuum leak. Heads were done not long ago so they aren't the culprit but when I do run the car the exhaust is whitish and doesn't smell of coolant to me but my sniffer is not what it used to be. I need to solder or add terminals to my fan because I did not route it correctly and the power steering belt ripped them apart. I don't think I need to fab a holder for the throttle cable ( right now ) it is at an angle but does not bind so for the interim I will go with it. I do need to bend the linkage a bit because the idle speed screw doesn't touch the linkage after the screw has been turned all the way in. So hopefully tomorrow I will have some sun to get a few more things knocked off my to do list. Then to figure out why my temp gauge decided to not to work after the weber swap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykeys Toy Posted April 15, 2012 Author Share Posted April 15, 2012 Ok so some progress.. not much though. I still need to plug the tubes coming from the heads and I have a lot more crap under the hood that needs to be plugged or removed but that is difficult to sort at least for me. The Fuel pump works so I tried improving the ground ( added a ground wire and tapped existing. ) That did not fix it so will be running a more permanent solution through the car via relay, My temporary fix is wires taped to the battery down the fender and back to the pump which works but looks extremely ghetto. I think once I get the stuff under the hood worked out my high idle will probably go away. It won't idle under 3500 RPM. I miss driving my car the mileage is awesome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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