Suba_GL_87 Posted February 6, 2012 Share Posted February 6, 2012 i was replaced oil pan gasket and main shaft rear seal while i was removed automatic transmission. when i was test starting for engine's on and there's badly as pour oil. i found it out there have bad sealant from rear oil pan gasket because i was put on rubber sealant on the both of gasket oil pan.. so, 2nd time same thing removed the automatic transmission and buy other Fel-Pro oil pan gasket. so, i put the sealant under the gasket on the oil pan before install it...BUT there still leaky like a dripping... so, i just had a removed the transmission for my three times and tell me... please tell me any advised for right way for replaced oil pan gasket OR just use the sealant on it without gasket...that's what Subaru's technology said? also i just buy new inch pound torque. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted February 6, 2012 Share Posted February 6, 2012 hand tight with a screwdriver/10mm nut driver and no more. too much torque will split the gasket. I always use ultra grey on the engine side of the gasket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted February 6, 2012 Share Posted February 6, 2012 RTV Only, no gasket. Are you sure it isn't the Breather plate? That's the common leak on the back of the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted February 6, 2012 Share Posted February 6, 2012 I've never used a gasket on an Ej oil pan. Always just use Ultra grey RTV. Definitely check the separator plate on the back of the engine. That's a guaranteed to leak on an older engine. Also if you didn't get the rear main seal from Subaru that could be leaking as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suba_GL_87 Posted February 6, 2012 Author Share Posted February 6, 2012 RTV Only, no gasket. Are you sure it isn't the Breather plate? That's the common leak on the back of the engine. yea, i did put sealant on the breather plate too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted February 6, 2012 Share Posted February 6, 2012 "so, 2nd time same thing removed the automatic transmission and buy other Fel-Pro oil pan gasket. so, i put the sealant under the gasket on the oil pan before install it...BUT there still leaky like a dripping..." hello you dont use a gasket on the oil pan for ej engine. you use ultra grey permatex and that alone... hello, someody above said that , do you want to do this 3, 4 5 times. no gasket ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suba_GL_87 Posted February 6, 2012 Author Share Posted February 6, 2012 so, should be use Ultra grey RTV? no gasket? just put tight before dry 24 hrs? can use the inch pounds torque 38-45"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted February 6, 2012 Share Posted February 6, 2012 NO GASKET . end of thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suba_GL_87 Posted February 6, 2012 Author Share Posted February 6, 2012 you bet "so, 2nd time same thing removed the automatic transmission and buy other Fel-Pro oil pan gasket. so, i put the sealant under the gasket on the oil pan before install it...BUT there still leaky like a dripping..." hello you dont use a gasket on the oil pan for ej engine. you use ultra grey permatex and that alone... hello, someody above said that , do you want to do this 3, 4 5 times. no gasket ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted February 6, 2012 Share Posted February 6, 2012 (edited) Please refer to this video The video shows hi-temp copper rtv since this is what was available, but ultra-grey is a more appropriate product. as this is what i described. thanx Edited February 6, 2012 by MilesFox Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted February 6, 2012 Share Posted February 6, 2012 Make sure the pan flange is flat. You may have pulled the metal up around the bolt holes using the gasket. If so you will have to flaten them back out or get a new pan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suba_GL_87 Posted February 6, 2012 Author Share Posted February 6, 2012 yes, i did same thing from my ea82... but EJ22 is not. Please refer to this video The video shows hi-temp copper rtv since this is what was available, but ultra-grey is a more appropriate product. as this is what i described. thanx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suba_GL_87 Posted February 6, 2012 Author Share Posted February 6, 2012 ok, im going to get ultra-grey rtv without gasket... my buddy and i will start on tomorrow. wish give me a luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suba_GL_87 Posted February 12, 2012 Author Share Posted February 12, 2012 sigh...leaky again..for three times! i was replaced oil pan with gray RTV, rear main shaft seal and i did put breath plate with RTV... when i was starting on the engine for 30 sec later became leaky like a pour dripping. why?? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 Most likely you damaged the rear main seal. Most advise not to touch the stock seal as they almost never leak. Since you have changed the seal already, you need to confirm it's the source of the leak. If it is, remove it. Polish the crank shaft seal area with green and then gray scotchbright in a circular motion. Lube the new seal lip seal and carefully drive it into the block. Make sure the lip seal does not roll or get damaged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suba_GL_87 Posted February 12, 2012 Author Share Posted February 12, 2012 Ok, i would like to new thread abt question rear main shaft seal... Most likely you damaged the rear main seal. Most advise not to touch the stock seal as they almost never leak. Since you have changed the seal already, you need to confirm it's the source of the leak. If it is, remove it. Polish the crank shaft seal area with green and then gray scotchbright in a circular motion. Lube the new seal lip seal and carefully drive it into the block. Make sure the lip seal does not roll or get damaged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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