mickytrus Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 Hi, Yeah doing a timing belt... the car always leaked like a pig so I figured that I would regasket the motor..... you know new head gaskets etc....... so I dropped off the heads to be resurfaced... The old place I used to use went out of bussiness.. too bad........... So I used the parts place that I use..... Anyway, I get a call they are telling me the heads are both cracked...... now... mind you the car ran fine..... I had no complaints about how the car ran..... It just was the timing belt snapped....... Any thoughts on this cracked head story... I really don't want to buy new heads at 250.00 a pop........... Again, the car ran fine..... Thanks, Micky:horse: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 Certain cracks between Valves on the First Gen and second Gen EA82's Heads could be considered as "Cosmetic" issue, if those doesn't went far enough to reach the passages. The EA82 engine has thee Gens of Heads, you can read more about that, ~► Here. Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 This is normal. Ea82's don't fail headgaskets the same as newer engine. You could have probably left them be and been fine. Tell your mechanic to peen them down. If he doesn't trust his own work and liability for the work, find someone else that will. You will find these cracks on 90% of pull-off heads from running engines. However, cracks in the exhaust ports are bad. These don't occur naturally, but rather from excessive overheats and abuses. There are TSB's about the heads. perhaps your machinist can look them up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytrus Posted February 8, 2012 Author Share Posted February 8, 2012 Yeah, He is going to send them back to me (from their machine shop to the part store) I will look at them and probably send them back to be resurfaced to look at........ I think he said, the crack goes in between from one to the other like I------E dotted line representing the crack between the I ntake and E xhaust....... What is a TSB? Also the valves were not removed... they are just doing a resurface....(this place;they don't remove the valves) so he didn't look inside the port... crack is between valves in combustion chamber part of head. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Logan K Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 What is a TSB It stands for technical service bulletin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 the cracks can go as deep as the valve guides and still be ok. I have ported heads for an ea82 turbo motor that had these cracks, hence my example. This is a currently running engine since 7 years ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytrus Posted February 9, 2012 Author Share Posted February 9, 2012 Geez. I got this smartphone but It hasn't made me smarter. There I was stAring at those cracked heads At the parts store. And I didn't get A picture. So will describe. Cracks are between Valves starting in the casted area the Cracks proceed towards the exhaust Valves down towards the valves and Give an unclear impression that they Go toward(through) the seat A picture says 1000 words. Sorry for the lack of a picture Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 Between valve cracks are NORMAL. All EA82 heads have these. Subaru has issued a TSB to ignore them. You can easily resurface the heads yourself and rent a valve spring compressor to take out the valves and install new seals. An inexpensive kit to lap the valves smooth is also a good idea. You don't need a machine shop to do these things and in any case they clearly have no experience with these heads. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytrus Posted February 9, 2012 Author Share Posted February 9, 2012 Thanks for all the input on this... this is a pic on one of the cracks in the combustion area on the head... they are all like this.. in the middle like previously mentioned...... Just figured a picture is best for everybody to see... So resurfacing my self...... I want the head to be true removed of any warping..... How can this be done.... without a milling machine ? Where do you recomend I get a kit for lapping the valves.... or if you could just provide me with a link to such a kit.......... MilesFox.... wondering if you could explain the peening on the gaskets? What do you mean ? Thanks, Micky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 I meant peening the crack itself. just get a small pointed punch and sort of tap down the edges of the crack to smoosh it together. The only potential for compromise with the crack is the valve seats. I have seen valve seats pop out. you can stake the side of the valve seat near the crack to prevent this. This is what peening the crack would be. You made that crack sound a lot worse than the picture. I have seen wider cracks on running cars. If you want my advice, (or my opinion on your specific operation) don't bother resurfacing the head. I never do. If the head is just a pull off on a non-cooked engine, it will be good to go. YOu can if you want to yourself, but otherwise, save yourself the expense. ($) There is a slight concavity across the head naturally that gets squeezed down by torque. The heads slide on their gaskets by design with different expansion rates to the block and intake.(graphite faced gaskets). some .002 difference in flatness is within spec Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 Your cracks are 100% normal. Don't do anything with them. Just surface the heads, lap the valves, and change the stem seals. My post on head surfacing: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=126868&highlight=apocalyptic http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80037-Valve-Grinding-Compound/dp/B000FW4MFC/ref=sr_1_31?ie=UTF8&qid=1328809553&sr=8-31 (look at the "frequently bought together" listing for the tool, compound, and prussian blue to check your surfaces). GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytrus Posted February 9, 2012 Author Share Posted February 9, 2012 Cool Thanks ! GenDis So I am going to collect my items to resurface at home... I got a nice butcher block work bench.... I need a piece of glass... 5/16 X ? X ? by what do you recommend... I am assuming that your sheet of 220 wet dry paper is 8.5 X 11.... so when you glue the paper down(on the glass)..... are you gluing two sheets next to each other, thus getting a 17 X 11 sanding surface? And what kind of stroke do you use while sliding the head on the sand paper? Are you (represent with clock as direction) moving/sliding the head from the center position to say 10 oclock and then back to center position and then moving/sliding the head to say 2 oclock? and then back to center position...... repeat process till completed? MilesFox with the peening I meant peening the crack itself. just get a small pointed punch and sort of tap down the edges of the crack to smoosh it together. Ok, I can dig it... The only potential for compromise with the crack is the valve seats. I have seen valve seats pop out. you can stake the side of the valve seat near the crack to prevent this. This is what peening the crack would be. So what if it look like the crack goes through the seat? I cant really determine this cause the valves are still in..... I would peen it right before the seat? I get the idea with peening generally speaking.... If you had a crack in a concrete wall.... one may drill the crack at its end point then fill the wall..... similar concept... Again much thanks, Micky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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