Penny05 Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 Evening, all. So here's the situation. I bought my 98 OBW used several years ago, drove the heck out of it until I blew the head gaskets (shocker) and paid through the nose to have new gaskets put in. The bolts were not replaced and they blew again last year out of nowhere and I got a 06 Legacy LE. Now I'm wanting to fix up the 98 again cause hey, it's a wagon. So I've so far acquired: Water Pump Radiator Complete gasket set WITH bolts Air Filter Oil Filter BUT The fella at the parts store wants to know what position the main bearings are in (3 or 5) so he knows which rod bearings I need...something about a flange. I've looked around the web today and everything I've found seems to be someone's mod story (entertaining, but less than helpful) and I'm just looking for stock info. I'm gonna go on a limb and say this engine has never been bored out since I bought it at 74k miles and it's got 201k on it now (go Soob) so I figure I'll just need standard rings. Questions are these: 1. What position are the main bearings in on my EJ25D? 2. Do I need to replace the pistons themselves? 3. Do the heads HAVE to be milled? Thanks in advance, I love this site. Peace and chicken grease. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 I can't really help. But I'd be willing to bet the head bolts weren't your problem. Add idler set, timing belt, accessory belts. Don't forget to reseal the baffle plate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penny05 Posted February 9, 2012 Author Share Posted February 9, 2012 Thanks, I know this is a notorious issue, but after pricing used engines of questionable integrity in my area, this is looking to be the cheaper route. Appreciate it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 For my money the best, most durable, and cheapest route is dropping in a 2.2. Search around here a bit. Depending on where you are at you can probably get a good running 2.2 for what hard parts are gonna cost for your 2.5. Reseal it and install it, done! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penny05 Posted February 9, 2012 Author Share Posted February 9, 2012 As far as I've been able to find out from area salvage yards, the nearest engine is in Columbus OH with a $1400 tag on it. I've decided to pass on that option since there is just a shortage of used engines in my area. I understand the swap is an easier fix for people in "better" areas with engines to spare, but I've gotten the parts pretty cheap so far and my labor cost is next to nothing. Just need to find out where the bearings sit so I can get them in by the weekend. Looks like I'll be calling a dealership tomorrow. Thanks anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 Price a 95 2.2 AUTOMATIC (with EGR!!) engine. It'll be much cheaper that a 2.5. May have to settle for a 96 or 97 and if that's the case you'll need it's Ypipe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 i suspect even a good 00 - 04 ej25 short block (maybe a good complete engine) with your heads, gadkets and intake would be cheaper than redoing the crank, bearings, rings, pistons ....... of course it may depend on your labor costs. look for an ej25 with a busted timing belt, 96 - 04, and put on your heads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 i suspect even a good 00 - 04 ej25 short block (maybe a good complete engine) with your heads, gadkets and intake would be cheaper than redoing the crank, bearings, rings, pistons ....... of course it may depend on your labor costs. look for an ej25 with a busted timing belt, 96 - 04, and put on your heads. I believe he's fixing the 98. I'm not sure the blocks are compatable to an 04 for instance. I still say the sturdiest and least expensive route is a 2.2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 the 98 and 01 block are interchangeable. i doubt the 04 is different, but i don't really know. the blocks are really ''dumb''. all the technical stuff in in the heads and intake. an 01 block is a good solution for a 96 - 99 ej225 with rod knock. and it usually comes with out the worry of over heating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarl Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 To answer the O.P. question, I *think* the thrust bearing on phase I engines is on #3. As mentioned before, not sure it's worth it to try to rebuild your engine. I would probably just replace the head gaskets and be done with it. Did it overheat badly? How much longer do you plan on keeping the car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penny05 Posted February 10, 2012 Author Share Posted February 10, 2012 Thanks for the replies, all. And yes, "she" is fixing the 98. This car has to run and that's all there is to it. Although your philosophical debates as to whether or not it's worth fixing are entertaining and informative, it's not your debate to have. The '06 got repo'd after I lost my job so I have no choice but to dump a grand in the 98. To answer the question, "how long am I planning on keeping it?" I've held on to the thing for 6 years so far, so idk, if I can get a couple years out of it this run, I'll be happier than a pig in poo. Jarl, thanks for actually answering my question, and I believe you are right from everything else I have been able to locate. The engine only got hot once and we have been unable to make it get hot again...after talking with my mechanic last night, he's not even 100% sure the gaskets are the issue. Water pump? a $14,000 Legacy lesson learned. Sigh. What a nightmare. The reasoning behind the rebuild was that he's gonna have the walnut cracked anyway, may as well replace things while its open. I have everything but the rings and bearings out there right now, so we'll see what we end up doing. I'll keep you fellas posted. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarl Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 Best luck with the rebuild! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 If you are dead set on rebuilding DO NOT order rings or bearings until you have had a machine shop or the rebuilder check the crank and rods. If the crank needs to be undersized you will need a bearing set to match. Subaru blocks generally do not need oversize boring, but you need to wait until yOu know for sure before ordering rings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 Put some new head gaskets in it and keep driving it. The head bolts don't have to be replaced but the key is to make sure they're properly torqued and to use a good quality head gasket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 The thrust bearing is #3 as indicated, unless the shortblock was replaced in the past. You could verify by looking on the passenger side rear of the engine for a vin number etching. If it matches your car its original. If theres no vin on it the shortblock was done and could easily have been replaced with a late 98 replacement block which can be a 4 bolt with a #5 rear journal setup, or an 8 bolt bellhousing which always has a #5 thrust journal. If its had head gaskets done and they are blown again do the shortblock, deck the heads flat and replace the valve stem seals minimum. Anything less will be another do over in a short period of time. The 2.2L suggestion is a good one but if you have the means to rebuild it at a reasonable cost thats going to be a sound solution and more powerful engine. Im one of the biggest fans of the swap but its not perfect for everyone. If you need help sourcing parts call me. I rebuild at least one a month of this particular engine and have rebuilt hundreds of them in the past. Turn the crank a minimum of "10" and buy .25 bearings. Or buy a new crank and standard main and rod bearings. I could set you up with a crank and bearings for under $500 shipped I think. I think the last crank I bought was around $351 but I would have to call to verify that, it was last years pricing and the new catalog changed at start of the year some things went up, some down (at Subaru). If in doubt, email me or post a photo here of what you aren't sure of. Its not worth guessing and doing it again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penny05 Posted February 11, 2012 Author Share Posted February 11, 2012 Thanks again for the replies. Fairtax, yes, the waiting game on the rings and bearings has begun. I can get all for under $100 and a couple day wait, so not too shabby just have to get the thing cracked open so he can tell me what to order (hopefully later this morning!!) ShawnW, thanks for all the detailed technical info. That is precisely what I came here looking for! EXTREMELY helpful and poor Dennis (rebuilder) thanks you too! I'll keep y'all posted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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