Thinking about how to install a hatch release (Loyale)

[man on the moon]

Before you hit respond and say "search", I did. I got a few ideas, but I'm fishing for more, or whether anyone has done this before and has a good idea.

 

Backstory: I occasionally spend time sleeping in my car camping/road-trips, or in the back for other reasons (aka I'm loading up the back and the hatch closed on me) and every single time, without fail, I open the passenger door and climb out, muttering cursewords. Doesn't matter if the rear seat is up or down, it's a real bother and occasionally requires some serious acrobatics.

 

And every time, I say to myself: "Self, wouldn't it be nice if you could just open the hatch from the inside and save yourself this trouble?"

 

So this winter I've been putting my mind to it. I'm pretty sure Subaru never made a remote/inside release for the older models (and I haven't looked in newer ones). Here's what I've come up with:

 

1. The sedan versions had a trunk release that operated on the same lever as the fuel filler door. However, I don't care to route a release cable with the proper tensioning through my ceiling, to the hatch door, around the glass, to the release. Talk about a pita.
    
   
2. Get an electric door unlocker thing-a-ma-bob from a random car/minivan and install it inside the hatch. Route a wire to the switch(es). I could put a switch on the hatch itself or nearby (preferably somewhere my dog won't hit it/a load won't shift onto it. Maybe in the same assembly as the rear cargo light I'm thinking of installing?). Could put another switch up front somewhere (say wired to an XT difflock switch). The hatch doesn't have to open on it's own, I just want to unlatch it. Opening would be nice but I'll settle for fewer acrobatics until I find door struts that will both fit and lift.
    
   
3. Cut out a section of the door panel and install a handle similar to what is on the passenger doors. Run a short cable or rod to tie in to the thingy the outside handle actuates when it unlatches the door.
    
   

 

I'm going to keep thinking about this and toying with ideas, but that's what I have so far. If you have suggestions, brain farts, or have done it to a wagon I'd love to hear!

Edited February 9, 2012 by man on the moon

[maozebong]

on my 91 loyale there is a electronic hatch (i think, could be retarded, but there is a rod that connects it to the lock) lock that is SUPPOSED to lock when you lock the doors with the key, but its dead. more than likely from the lock being really stiff, and nearly siezed.

 

if that is the case, id look into something like that from a junkyard loyale.

[man on the moon]

Mine also has the electronic lock system, but that only unlocks the door. If it is locked, I can't open the hatch. If it's unlocked, the outside handle will open it. (The key also works--from the outside). I'm looking for a way to actuate the latch mechanism so I can open the door, not just unlock it. (Though I will wire a lock switch to whatever system I end up devising, so I can lock the door while I'm asleep. Since it's electronic, that's pretty basic, and I'm not worried about it.)

Edited February 9, 2012 by man on the moon

[Dj7291993]

1. The sedan versions had a trunk release that operated on the same lever as the fuel filler door. However, I don't care to route a release cable with the proper tensioning through my ceiling, to the hatch door, around the glass, to the release. Talk about a pita.
   

 

Then don't. Use the cable, but put the release on the door. Like the emergency trunk releases in newer cars.

[Loyale 2.7 Turbo]

All the GL / Loyale Wagons I've seen has the electronic release with a push button on the Dashboard, just in front of the Turn signals' stick; even my old 1985 BumbleBeast has it There.

 

But that only release the Lock itself and doesn't move the Opening Handle, which I Believe is that what do you want, to move the Hatch up.

 

To do so, you'll need to remove the Hatch's door Plastic back and Look at the opening Mechanism on the Door, Maybe you can put / weld another metal piece to the opening Handle or directly to the release mechanism, to open it from the interior; but that means to open a Hole on the Plastic Back cover to Slide your hand there.

 

Kind Regards.

[Cyfun]

What does the mechanism look like behind the panel? I've never had it off to look. You might be able to attach a lever to something, but it would probably be tricky to get it to attach to the small components. Best bet would likely be to tie a piece of cable or coat hanger wire to the mechanism somewhere, and have it stick through a hole in the door, with a loop or T handle on the end that you pull. Or there might even be a place where you could just cut a hole in the panel and actuate it by sticking your finger in.

 

That would be a place to start, and would be easiest to access if you're lying in your trunk area. An electronic option would be a neat next step to take cause then you could have it rigged to buttons on the dash and in the trunk, as well as tie it in to a keyless entry system. In fact, i'm sure someone sells some universal trunk/door release kits with an actuator, some wire, fuses and switches. here is what I found on eBay for $22

[bigjimd]

My old 240 Volvo wagons had an inside latch that with some thought I bet could me made to work. You've got me thinking now. Gonna try and do the same to Fizgig. Great idea!!

[man on the moon]

Then don't. Use the cable, but put the release on the door. Like the emergency trunk releases in newer cars.

 

That's one of the ideas I mentioned, put a handle of some sort in the door itself that will actuate the latch.

 

All the GL / Loyale Wagons I've seen has the electronic release with a push button on the Dashboard, just in front of the Turn signals' stick; even my old 1985 BumbleBeast has it There.

 

But that only release the Lock itself and doesn't move the Opening Handle, which I Believe is that what do you want, to move the Hatch up.

 

Correct. I can already manipulate the lock. My lock control is via locking/unlocking the driver door, but same idea. I want to manipulate the latch itself so I can open the hatch without getting out. I'm keeping an eye out for lifters that will do that, but that's a cake-walk compared to re-doing the latch. (I think--chances are that will be the harder part ).

[man on the moon]

What does the mechanism look like behind the panel? I've never had it off to look. You might be able to attach a lever to something, but it would probably be tricky to get it to attach to the small components. Best bet would likely be to tie a piece of cable or coat hanger wire to the mechanism somewhere, and have it stick through a hole in the door, with a loop or T handle on the end that you pull. Or there might even be a place where you could just cut a hole in the panel and actuate it by sticking your finger in.

 

That would be a place to start, and would be easiest to access if you're lying in your trunk area. An electronic option would be a neat next step to take cause then you could have it rigged to buttons on the dash and in the trunk, as well as tie it in to a keyless entry system. In fact, i'm sure someone sells some universal trunk/door release kits with an actuator, some wire, fuses and switches. here is what I found on eBay for $22

 

I really like this idea, and hadn't considered that. Well, I did consider sticking my finger through a hole, but would prefer to avoid THAT option. I mean the pull cable w/ring. Our walk in freezer at work has a similar emergency release in case the power (it's an electronic door) goes out. This would also save the trouble of mounting bulky hardware inside the door...sometimes I over-complicate things, which is why I thought one of you guys might come up with something simple like this

 

I'm going to the junkyard Saturday for some solenoids and other bits and pieces, I'll take a look inside the hatch and get some pictures for you guys. Not going to pop my panel off until I have to!

 

I'm not so worried about getting the parts as making them work. I understand how the release/latch parts work; I'm struggling with getting them to do what I want, when I want, where I want, without breaking anything (including the bank) or having to cut and weld pieces.

 

My old 240 Volvo wagons had an inside latch that with some thought I bet could me made to work. You've got me thinking now. Gonna try and do the same to Fizgig. Great idea!!

 

I'll take a look for these, too.

[ShawnW]

Any wagon with a 3rd row rear facing seat would be a candidate I think. Volvo's, Celebrity Wagons from GM, etc. I agree, neat idea.

[eulogious]

This is a good idea, I just never got locked in the back of my car, so I never thought about it. But good idea.

 

What I would do is install a "trunk release" solenoid for aftermarket keyless entry systems. I installed one in my MR2 because the old trunk release cable broke, and I didn't want to fish a whole new cable through the car, so I just bought a trunk release kit, and installed it. Now I just push a button, and it pops up the trunk.

 

Something like this (basically the same as to what was linked to earlier):

 

http://www.amazon.com/CRIME-STOPPER-CS-611-Power-Trunk-Release/dp/B00006JPG8

 

But you are going to need some sort of solenoid to do this. The locks are NOT strong enough at all to release the hatch. I am not even sure the solenoid in my trunk release kit is strong enough, but it might be. And if you go the solenoid route, you can install a switch wherever you want, and don't have to worry about cables hanging out and getting in the way or anything like that. Very clean way of installing it. You can have a switch up front, and a switch in the back.

 

There should be enough room in the hatch to install it, but make sure it SECURED. I have already had to redo my mounting 2x on my trunk release kit because it keeps coming loose and it stops working. I just can't seem to find a good place to secure it so that it won't move. So if you go this route, make sure that that puppy is really secured!

[cnc]

Here is a $5.50 solution: It is a door lock actuator that can either push or pull 3/4". See http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/DLA-1/DOOR-LOCK-ACTUATOR/1.html

Runs on 12v and is made for car door locking. cnc

[Cyfun]

Here is a $5.50 solution: It is a door lock actuator that can either push or pull 3/4". See http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/DLA-1/DOOR-LOCK-ACTUATOR/1.html

Runs on 12v and is made for car door locking. cnc

 

Not bad, but it doesn't say how much force it can put out. I'll probably rather go with one of those solenoid kits eBay as they're specifically designed for pulling hard on release latches. Plus, the actuator is $12.50 after shipping, and the eBay kit is only $10 more and comes with wiring, a button, a fuse holder, and the cabling and crimpers and a mounting bracket.

[bigjimd]

If you want to go electric check this out. Since you already have an electric lock you need to pop the hatch open and keep it from closing itself back correct? This should serve the purpose.

 

http://www.slickcar.com/details/544-shaved-door-handles.asp

[man on the moon]

Here is a $5.50 solution: It is a door lock actuator that can either push or pull 3/4". See http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/DLA-1/DOOR-LOCK-ACTUATOR/1.html

Runs on 12v and is made for car door locking. cnc

 

I don't want to unlock the door, I can already do that. I want to open the door.

 

If you want to go electric check this out. Since you already have an electric lock you need to pop the hatch open and keep it from closing itself back correct? This should serve the purpose.

 

http://www.slickcar.com/details/544-shaved-door-handles.asp

 

This doesn't look too bad as long as it will fit in the hatch itself. It certainly puts out enough pressure! And as long as it stays mounted as has been previously mentioned.

[bigjimd]

I don't want to unlock the door, I can already do that. I want to open the door.

 

 

 

This doesn't look too bad as long as it will fit in the hatch itself. It certainly puts out enough pressure! And as long as it stays mounted as has been previously mentioned.

 

Look at nuts and bolts rather than a self tapping screw. Locks and flats or flats and nylocks should not come loose.

[cnc]

Yes, it is designed as a door lock/unlocker but a crafty person would use it to yank or push on the latch to open the door. You could also use your new button to not only yank open the latch, but also to simultaneously energize the power unlock feature that already exists there. You would need two diodes so that you do not backfeed the rest of the system. Diodes are 25 cents. 1N4001 or similar. Just like a battery isolator, only smaller.

All that aside, I think the cable with a ring on the end fished out of a hole in the panel is the best/easiest/fastest/cheapest solution.

[man on the moon]

Yes, it is designed as a door lock/unlocker but a crafty person would use it to yank or push on the latch to open the door. You could also use your new button to not only yank open the latch, but also to simultaneously energize the power unlock feature that already exists there. You would need two diodes so that you do not backfeed the rest of the system. Diodes are 25 cents. 1N4001 or similar. Just like a battery isolator, only smaller.

All that aside, I think the cable with a ring on the end fished out of a hole in the panel is the best/easiest/fastest/cheapest solution.

 

Ah, I see what you are saying. It is possible, but I am not in a hurry to by a lock/unlock device when 1--I have one already, and 2--I know nothing about how it works.

 

That is ambiguous, let me clarify: I don't want to spend money on an unlocker that I don't know how it works. There are a variety of locking mechanism and I don't want to mess with adapting something for a ratchet type lock to a finger and groove type lock, for example. I just want something made for moving a latch of known mechanism. The ring and cable is good, a door handle may work, etc. I appreciate the idea you put here--and it would look sweet, but I am really after the simplest working solution that won't have deadly unintended consequences.

[man on the moon]

It snowed last night. While that is hardly the end of the world, it puts me more in a mood to stay home and drink hot chocolate than go out and freeze myself just to answer a curiosity question. Freeze is the wrong word--I don't care to go out and dig junkyard cars out of the snow and get cold and wet unless it's bringing my car back from the dead or I know I can do it fast. Hard to do what I want in bulky snow clothes (that I also don't want all greasy/muddy/torn).

 

Putting it off til next week, sorry guys.

[Gloyale]

Weld a bent rod onto the rod the actuated the latch (runs vertically from the hanlde to the latch) cut a slot in the panel for the rod to stick out of to the inside.

 

Now just pull up on the rod when you want to open.

 

A second rod could be added to the lock actuator easily (runs along bottom of the door to the electric actuator)