Suba_GL_87 Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=1082047&posted=1#post1082047 I've been problem for three times and replace oil pan with RTV, rear seal main-shaft and breath plate with RTV when i was removed the automatic transmission... and then, there's still leaky from main-shaft rear seal...when i was started on the engine under the 30 sec became pour the leaky?! what's wrong with it? did i wrong put main-shaft seal? or have go to shop for replace new main-shaft seal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 The rear main's on these engines are tricky to install due to their large size. You probably rolled the lip on the seal when you installed it. Get a new one from the dealer and install it with a 3" ABS pipe cap from Home Depot. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 Or I use a 3" PVC collar so I can constantly look at th inside and the outside. I place a block of wood on it before hitting the wood (old 5/4 x 6" x 6" piece of decking). Caps around me aren't flat on the part you're gonna be hitting. Which could mean to me that the force of the hit may not be distributed evenly. But then again it isn't gonna do in with one hit anyways. You can take the seal with you into the home improvement store to make sure you get whatever fits to drive the seal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suba_GL_87 Posted February 12, 2012 Author Share Posted February 12, 2012 i was use the lube with mainshaft and drive-driver with wide flats. i was put like a perfect on the seal...and deep as enough. BUT i thought so, i need get the pvc collar in home depot, should be them more deeper than i thought. it's make a sense to me. im question for how much cost for repair seal in shop rate? when i send my car..? Or I use a 3" PVC collar so I can constantly look at th inside and the outside. I place a block of wood on it before hitting the wood (old 5/4 x 6" x 6" piece of decking). Caps around me aren't flat on the part you're gonna be hitting. Which could mean to me that the force of the hit may not be distributed evenly. But then again it isn't gonna do in with one hit anyways. You can take the seal with you into the home improvement store to make sure you get whatever fits to drive the seal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 The seal should not be driven all the way in. It should only be flush and it's critical that it be even and that you don't roll the lip. I usually rotate them as I'm inserting them so the lip slides over the crank properly. Having a shop do it would be expensive - since they have to pull the engine to access it. Probably at least $300. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 (edited) I'm having trouble with your English. As I beleive I stated in the other thread it's too bad that you don't have the back of another engine to look at. I have a few but can't get to them right now. IIR the seal goes in further than flush. But I can't recall how far and don't want to guess but I'm thinking 1/8" or so from memory. But PLEASE get a real measurement before installing the next one. Perhaps someone else has an engine handy and can help you out. DOn't know that a pic would actually be of much help. GD was posting when I was. He says flush, I thought it was a little further in, but it's been a while, so I defer to him. Like I've said the only ones I've ever needed to replace were because someone had already replaced them before. Edited February 12, 2012 by davebugs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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