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My '83 GL: The Ski Wagon


TheLoyale
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Theres a 83 gl 3 door... in colorado that would probably work. its just 2 hours away from me or else i would have bought it before he scraps it

 

What are the odds he would sell you the tank? And what are the odds you'd ship it? And what are the odds it is 4WD?

 

Personally, I don't understand why you can not ship a fuel tank. If you wash it out with Soap and Water, there would be no residual fumes, so WTF?

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What are the odds he would sell you the tank? And what are the odds you'd ship it? And what are the odds it is 4WD?

 

Personally, I don't understand why you can not ship a fuel tank. If you wash it out with Soap and Water, there would be no residual fumes, so WTF?

 

Probably high, I don't think it is a 4x4 but i just emailed him about it (hopefully it is) and I've shipped a fuel pump that had gas in it and was leaking (if you package it your self with out them knowing they don't have a say you just say its a metal box)

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Probably high, I don't think it is a 4x4 but i just emailed him about it (hopefully it is) and I've shipped a fuel pump that had gas in it and was leaking (if you package it your self with out them knowing they don't have a say you just say its a metal box)

 

That is 100% what I figured. For instance, the tank I just removed, was fully (16gal) I drained it all (Put most in my Landcruiser and some in the Dodge) I then left the tank sit in my yard for a day, and it was dry, and didn't smell like anything. So UPS and FedEx are a bunch of pussies. But I do understand there reasoning and liabilty issues. But still, Frustraiting...

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I contacted that Wes dude in Seattle back again, I asked him if he'd hold the tank for the moment, as I am going to see if I can get someone from here who is local to Seattle to pick up the tank and ship it to me.

 

I would paypal the Owner of the tank, and then all the shipper would have to do, is pick it up, rinse it out with Soap/Water so its fume free and box it up. I would then Paypal the shipper the shipping cost, and funds for his/her time.

 

If anyone sees this and is interested in doing so, PM me and let me know ASAP. I will also put out another thread just for this idea.

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I posted this in an earlier posting, but:

 

I had a tank shipped to me from out West by a Member on here.

Cost thru the USPS was just under $40.00 then, probally a bit more now to ship one.

 

Home-made packaging, using plastic, carpeting, and cardboard.

 

No smell of gas, be it old or fresh.

Not sure how he did that...

 

Really thinking he didn't tell them what the "box" contained....

 

But,,,,,,,,,,

I'm really thinking though that one could flush the tank out, maybe soap/water would work. ??? Don't know for sure on that.

Then, flow some air thru it from a hose hooked to an air compressor for an undetermined amount of time. Followed by a flush with a hose hooked to a nitrogen tank for the same undetermined amount of time, sealing up all openings afterwards.

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So, since there were complaints about my cargo carpet, I took it to work with me and cleaned it with a Tennant Spirt machine, I only had Johnson Wax 505 pre-spotter though, so I'm sure I could'a got more out if I used Butchers Pull Out, but it did clean up more then prior!

 

Does this please everyone now? lol. I will probably clean it again later on.

 

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Seat belts and Pillar covers.

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Need to polish the chrome and return the black to its proper state.

Resto004.jpg

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Found out that I have a bad rear wheel bearing on the driver side. I can push/pull the wheel really easy and has a good amount of play. F**k! Where can I get the correct rear wheel bearings?

 

Mean while, I did manage to get the rear seat back, out. It does indeed slide to the Right once the retainer is removed. Very easy.

 

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So, since there were complaints about my cargo carpet, I took it to work with me and cleaned it with a Tennant Spirt machine, I only had Johnson Wax 505 pre-spotter though, so I'm sure I could'a got more out if I used Butchers Pull Out, but it did clean up more then prior!

 

Does this please everyone now? lol. I will probably clean it again later on.

 

Resto002.jpg

 

 

Try using a damp terry towel and an iron to remove the stain. what this does is let the stain migrate from one fabric to another where vacuum won't pull it.

 

I suppose you could try this from the reverse side, since the stain is probably settled in the weave, and why you see in the pile is what has transferred from the concentrate in the weave from the vacuum.

 

Can you discern what sort of stain it is?

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Looks like it is so badly color washed out by now......first pics looked more blue, the last pic it is getting grey, probably not using the right cleaners on it and it is fading it out.

 

Anymore, and you will have grey fibers. I would rather have a little stain and dark rich color.

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Fox, I may have to try that idea. As for the stain, it looks like Cola of some sort, or Chocolate syrup.

 

As for the color wash, it is still as dark as it was, this picture is with flash, and with the pile being ruffled up, The carpet was sun faded to begin with.

 

Brent, I do commercial carpet cleaning for a living, I am using the proper chemicals, as it didn't hard the rest of the carpeting from the car.

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So, since there were complaints about my cargo carpet, I took it to work with me and cleaned it with a Tennant Spirt machine, I only had Johnson Wax 505 pre-spotter though, so I'm sure I could'a got more out if I used Butchers Pull Out, but it did clean up more then prior!

 

Does this please everyone now? lol. I will probably clean it again later on.

 

Resto002.jpg

 

 

 

Nope - not clean enough! :grin: can still see the stain... (you do know I am just messing with you, right?)

 

hmm, cola, huh?

 

nice warm sunny day - hang it up and pressure wash it! (stain side down - basically flip it from how you have it hanging now, so the stuff isnt draining across unstained carpeting)

heck, just using the garden hose with the spray nozzle set to the high pressure fan spray setting works pretty well - if you have decent water pressure. did that with my front floor mats - they looked almost new again once they dried. :cool:

Edited by heartless
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Tom, rough break. That is probably more repairable them my tank though. A Radiator repair should handle that pretty easy, as there is where I took mine for a quote.

 

Jon, Good luck on the car, was a nice day for it!

 

I started with removing all of the hard sound coating which was cracked anyway. Just a hammer and a plain screwdriver did the trick in 15min

 

Down to bare painted surface.

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After using Rust-oleum Bedliner with brush.

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I may remove the headliner at some point to check things out (Rattling) probably a cross brace.

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After coating the cargo area, I am also going to buy something like Duramat sound deadening mat to insulate and dampen sound.

Edited by TheLoyale
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So, I am looking at bearings. Partsgeek offers either Partsmaster or NTN. NTN is a genuine bearing, Timing componenet bearings are NTN for instance. NTN is $70, Partsmaster is $34.

 

Anyone have insight on bearing brands for wheel bearings?

 

The EA81 trailing arm does have the same type of bearings as the EA82 correct? The outer race taps in from behind then the Cone bearings follow. I did it on an XT6 once so I have an idea on the job.

 

Milesfox, insight on bearing brands and such? You're pretty good with that stuff.

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I bought the 100 dollar set from napa. I could have gone with the 30 dllar set. I think i failed on my installation anyway.

 

You will probably want to have the bearing pressed in to be seated fully. At least you can get the ring off. Scott has my pin socket if you need the right tool.

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I will go to NAPA then and see what they give me. I will also need that pin socket, although I'll just buy once so I have it.

 

I will also need to buy a Driverside front axle as there is no DOJ boot on the one I have. I'm gonna be balls deep into this car before its over...

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Good luck getting the rear bearing apart.

 

I just did them on my RUST FREE '84 GL. Mine went to hell from sitting for 14 years. A bit of moisture trapped in there caused all kinds of bearing and race damage.

 

Did not have a pin socket. Wish I had, but even on this rust free example, those rings did NOT want to come out.

 

 

 

 

 

I'm gonna be balls deep into this car before its over...

 

DUH!! :lol:

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I am not looking forward to the wheel bearing(s) I can't even tap the roll pin out of the DOJ side (Closest to the Diff) maybe with more Deepcreep and some heat I can pound it out.

 

I will have to pound the entire axle out through the bearing and back in, as I did on the XT6 as I am not going to be able to serparate the Axle from the stub in the knuckle.

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