mcbrat Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 you should let it run a bit too without anything hooked up to the vac advance port on the carb, so that it sucks all the fuel back out of it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted August 29, 2012 Author Share Posted August 29, 2012 Well I'll be damned. Thats all the problem was! I really didn't think it would matter where it was hooked up, but I did notice the port on the carb has less section than the port straight off the intake, so I can see how that can be a major problem. Problem finally solved! Thank you all! Mick, thank you for the illustrations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrat Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 Well I'll be damned. Thats all the problem was! I really didn't think it would matter where it was hooked up, but I did notice the port on the carb has less section than the port straight off the intake, so I can see how that can be a major problem.Problem finally solved! Thank you all! Mick, thank you for the illustrations. yes, by having 2 vac sources connected, the stronger vac from the intake manifold was pulling fuel in through the vac advance port on the carb, so it would have been creating turbulence affecting the fuel atomization. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted August 30, 2012 Author Share Posted August 30, 2012 Well, the Bucking is back. How is that possible? Ran great earlier today, no bucking, good power, felt great and thought it was fixed! Now it runs like it always has, bucking, runs like crap when you first start it, sometimes it'll revs up and stalled when trying to warm up. Almost like the choke isn't closing (Will check that out) and that the step-up isn't working. Sadly this car is really pissing me off. Time for Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrat Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 have you changed out the fuel filter under the rear of the car yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted August 30, 2012 Author Share Posted August 30, 2012 Yes sir. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrat Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 still seems like a vac issue to me... I had some similar symptons in MtnGRizz before, and I had a vac cap that had split... passenger head egr tube tightened up properly? PCV valve working properly? have you tried removing the vac tube for HVAC and plugging that on the manifold...? how strong is your throttle return spring? the throttle position screw should be set so that with the return spring on, when you turn he position screw in, one you make contact, go another half turn... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbosubarubrat Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 this might sound stupid but have u checked spark plugs yet? that has fixed one of my dads problems before, my sisters geo metro would do the same thing once warmed up and started bucking really bad so we replaced parts and checked fuel pressure,for vacume leaks, even replaced fuel pump, throttle body, but it was the spark plugs, one of them had the electrode broke off so it didn't fire the spark right and once warm up the geo would run on two cylinders so ran really crappy and under powered with the bucking so changed all spark plugs and it was gone:headbang: another problem my dads has got the ea82 and ea81 subarus to run on 3 and even 2 scylinders but they run very crappy with bucking;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted August 30, 2012 Author Share Posted August 30, 2012 The Plugs are new NGK, I've gone over this entire engine through the build. PCV is new and working, There is no EGR tube on the head (Aren't you thinking about the EJ motors?) This is an EA82 EGR, so it bolts to the intake, and a 5/32" hose runs off that to the carb. And the EGR is working properly. All cylinders are firing accordingly, it runs ok, idle is a little off, and it bucks with the throttle pedal pressed slightly when cruising. Put your foot into it a little more where it starts to pull and there is no more bucking. Maybe you have to drive this car like the Harley drivers do, Feed the gas hard, let off, feed it hard, let off lol... The Vac caps are good, no cracks. I have not tried capping off the HVAC yet. Perhaps I'll give that a whirl. Kinda starting to run out of options. Throttle return spring is just perfect with resistance. Feels good and shut the throttle all the way (I adjusted the throttle hold screw up just so it'll idle about 600-700) But now it idles lower and rough for no apparent reason. My header may have a slight leak, could this be the cause? Still not enough back pressure? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted August 30, 2012 Author Share Posted August 30, 2012 I may be onto something here! Will post later with details once I find that it did fix the issue. ALSO, I need a Thermo switch. Mine stopped working today, where can I buy a new one? Rockauto doesn't list it (Only the Temp sender for the gauge) Parts house wants $40 for the switch, BS! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrat Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 I may be onto something here! Will post later with details once I find that it did fix the issue. ALSO, I need a Thermo switch. Mine stopped working today, where can I buy a new one? Rockauto doesn't list it (Only the Temp sender for the gauge) Parts house wants $40 for the switch, BS! for the radiator? if so, I have a bunch. I bought a case of them off ebay a while back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted August 30, 2012 Author Share Posted August 30, 2012 Really! Gonna PM you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted September 1, 2012 Author Share Posted September 1, 2012 Think we finally have the Weber tuned correctly. Had to richen it up, then we adjusted the Choke plate so it'll close more when cold, and adjusted the Step-up a little higher. Seems to start up and run like a top now, thanks Dad! Can't really drive it until I get the thermo switch. (Well I could hook the fan directly to the batt and drive it around, but eh, I'll wait.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mechanical_misfit Posted September 1, 2012 Share Posted September 1, 2012 Good to hear you got it tuned. My thermo switch has been bad since I got The DL, I just wired the fan to a keyed power. Maybe one day I'll buy a new switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted September 1, 2012 Author Share Posted September 1, 2012 I am looking forward to driving it and not have it buck anymore, before, it was like the car was trying to hump me LMAO! I am welding on the original hood tonight. The Calif. Hood has a huge dent in it which can be seen when wet. The original hood it dent free, but had two drilled holes in it from hood pins. I welded those closed and ground them down, next up will be some filler and blending. Wire wheel the underside and repaint with black enamel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted September 1, 2012 Share Posted September 1, 2012 Good to hear that you're getting it running properly. Sorry to mislead you on the disty timing/vac hose thing. I've always set mine as I stated, but apparently a new vac adavnce is more sensitive than an old one. Mine were/are functional, but there must be something to do with age of the diaphram. Don't know..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted September 1, 2012 Share Posted September 1, 2012 Think we finally have the Weber tuned correctly. Had to richen it up, then we adjusted the Choke plate so it'll close more when cold, and adjusted the Step-up a little higher. Seems to start up and run like a top now, thanks Dad! Can't really drive it until I get the thermo switch. (Well I could hook the fan directly to the batt and drive it around, but eh, I'll wait.) you can ground that thermo sensor wire to the frame for fan to work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted September 1, 2012 Author Share Posted September 1, 2012 you can ground that thermo sensor wire to the frame for fan to work Indeed I could. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted September 3, 2012 Author Share Posted September 3, 2012 I fixed all the dents and holes in the original hood today. The hood I bought out of the Junkyard has a very large dent in the center (Like someone sat on it) and has a little more rust. So I cleaned up the original hood and will use this hood instead. Sanded entire hood and coated with Primer. It'll stay primer until I get the whole car repainted professionally later on. This is the other hood which I bought, it'll be a good spare. I may even fix this hood as well when I'm bored. Also painted the wheels Satin black. This is the Core support I got from TomR, thanks man! I just need to cut and weld it up. I have to cut this one up so I don't ruin the upper section as it is still in good shape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdventureSubaru Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 If I'm remembering right, primer will soak up and hold water. It won't be a protection for recently exposed metal from rust. Learned that on a mustang a few years back. I hit some rust spots with an angle grinder to get back to bare metal and sprayed primer over to "protect" it. The rust came right back. I'd get at least a $1. spray can of indoor/outdoor to cover it before I'd let that hood see any moisture. Looking fantastic though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted September 4, 2012 Author Share Posted September 4, 2012 Yeah I hear that. I had that issue with my Loyale for the longest time (Back when I had a primer patch for 3yrs) the rust started to show, resprayed it with primer lol! I might as well paint the hood white while I'm at it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subruise Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 looks good Tom, black wagon wheels are where its at Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jboymechanic Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 Correct, do not drive around in the weather with just primer, a common mistake. Put on a coat of cheap paint to seal it up. When are we gonna do the clutch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted September 4, 2012 Author Share Posted September 4, 2012 When I get the money for one. I'm waiting for the Toyota seals first, so I can have that all done and drive it again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted September 5, 2012 Author Share Posted September 5, 2012 *Puts gun to engine block* Why do you keep bucking! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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