tundrabrat Posted September 11, 2012 Share Posted September 11, 2012 Lowes has bins of fasteners in the bolt/screw dept. You might also check in at Napa. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mechanical_misfit Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-SUBARU-REAR-DRIVER-SIDE-WAGON-QUARTER-PANEL-/220878696469?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item336d657015#ht_500wt_1156 I think he has both sides for this car. Maybe you would want to look in to these to use for your rust repair Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durania Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 I want this in 1080p! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted September 14, 2012 Author Share Posted September 14, 2012 So I ordered a clutch kit today. I will have it tomorrow, comes with everything so it looks. Clutch disc, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, alignment tool. It better be for the 4WD, O-rileys has a habit of giving me the wrong parts. The Kit is Sachs. $100. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subruise Posted September 14, 2012 Share Posted September 14, 2012 post a pic of the TOB would ya? one of my custys bought a "ea82" sachs from said store and im glad i checked w my alignment tool, it was not the right one by any means. nor was the TOB, didnt even look right. the clutch disc and pp bolted right up tho. Thanx, as always Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
branbikenut1 Posted September 14, 2012 Share Posted September 14, 2012 The bucking problem youre having, is it all the time or only before it warms up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted September 15, 2012 Author Share Posted September 15, 2012 The bucking problem youre having, is it all the time or only before it warms up? It is all the time, cold or warm. Turns out the EGR was the main culprit of the bucking, now she runs smooth down the road! Rob, I will take a picture of the TOB and all the goodies when I get it tomorrow. For now, here is the kit I am getting, Has a picture. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1382797 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyeights Posted September 15, 2012 Share Posted September 15, 2012 I have done two Subaru clutches recently and both of them had cracks in the pivot area of the clutch fork. You could tell that the pivot area had been dry of any lube for years. One of the two was bad enough that the pivot ball was ready to punch right through the fork, the other had hairline cracks just starting. Subaru could still get the forks, the retaining spring for the pivot, and the 2 clips for the throwout bearing - none of these parts were expensive. I would look closely at it when you have it opened up. So I ordered a clutch kit today. I will have it tomorrow, comes with everything so it looks. Clutch disc, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, alignment tool. It better be for the 4WD, O-rileys has a habit of giving me the wrong parts. The Kit is Sachs. $100. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subruise Posted September 15, 2012 Share Posted September 15, 2012 i second this, a recent addition to my ''cars that i fix'' fleet was bought for super filthy cheap......broke clutch fork (88 gl) runs like a whipped mini horse. that said, the only donor fork came off another recent addition and the cracks were evident, but not yet fatal. that cars getting a rebuilt motor then ill replace the fork. long story long.........lube that pivot with white lithium grease while you have the chance....but you prolly knew that. i digress.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyeights Posted September 15, 2012 Share Posted September 15, 2012 (edited) White lithium or a high pressure EP moly base works well also. Edited September 16, 2012 by Crazyeights Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted September 16, 2012 Author Share Posted September 16, 2012 I have both, I will probably use Moly so its more robust. Good call on this, I will check this out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
branbikenut1 Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 It is all the time, cold or warm. Turns out the EGR was the main culprit of the bucking, now she runs smooth down the road!QUOTE] Thats good you got her all fixed and running smooth. I'm having a similar problem but only when its cold. The CEL is on but i cant find a shop around here to read the codes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted September 19, 2012 Author Share Posted September 19, 2012 These cars are OBD-I, the engine light will flash a series and repeat. You then count the flashes and look up the code in a repair manuel (Chilton, Hayens) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted September 19, 2012 Author Share Posted September 19, 2012 Motor is now out. Went to the dealer and ordered a rear main, $15! But mine is leaking so it looks. I will have some questions that I'll post up later, with pictures more or less. Side note, Fork looks mint. No cracking, still has original blue/gray paint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted September 20, 2012 Author Share Posted September 20, 2012 Moist. This red rubber, isn't a seal is it? Disc. Pressure plate. The fingers aren't broke, but the ends are worn and grooved. Flywheel looks and feels ok. I don't think it needs to be resurfaced. Yes/No? New Sachs kit. Throw-out bearing, pilot bearing, what is the very small roller bearing for? New pressure plate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 ummy nummy clutch and moist motoor there, son:Flame: what are you doing with the flywheel? It looks more glazed than gouged. a rotary drill sander with 60 grit may do the job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted September 20, 2012 Author Share Posted September 20, 2012 Yeah its not gouged, I feel a very slight groove, so I am wondering if I should get it turned? If I didn't have the groove I would go the sand paper route. Don't want the disc to be slippin' as I ain't scratchin' phat tracks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyeights Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 Your going all the way here I vote just surface the flywheel. It shouldn't add more than $30-$40 and then you know it's all perfect. The little red o-ring is also a seal but I have re-used them without any trouble. Remember to loctite the flywheel bolts to seal them as well. Looks Great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted September 20, 2012 Author Share Posted September 20, 2012 Yeah I'm thinking I may just get it done right. Gotta wait till I have $40-50 stashed. I'm gonna drop the oil pan, de-rust it, paint it (Some color) reseal it with RTV. I'd like to get Stainless bolts for it too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyeights Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 Your build - but just another opinion. I would personally skip the RTV and go to a Ford dealer and ask for the diesel oil pan sealer in the half size caulking tube, or a Toyota dealer and ask for their oil pan sealer (in a tube), failing availability of all of that I prefer 518 anaerobic or Ultra grey. Just some other options. Life expectancy of RTV around oil seems to be about 2 years max and then it turns to mush. One further option is to use a gasket with a THIN coating of any of the above sealers on each side, and clean and loctite the bolts so they will hold tension on the gasket without needing to over-torque the bolts and squeeze it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subruise Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 thanx for the clutch picks......turns out AZ gave us the wrong kit. matches your ea81 kit perfectly (cept for the roller bearing?). this woulda worked for us.......if we had an 87 ea81 wagon (doesnt exhist). oh well, i shoulda gone not the new guy i guess. I digress............. back to work Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 ... an 87 ea81 wagon (doesnt exhist) ... ... in USA. The EA82 engine was "Optional" in Latin America and other markets. Your build - but just another opinion. I would personally skip the RTV ... I prefer 518 anaerobic or Ultra grey... Yes, I Agree that Standard Silicones won't last there, but How about the Mega Cooper? Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subruise Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 well, ya got me there Jezsek, i shoulda said "there is no 1987 MY gen 2 wagon"........in the usa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted September 20, 2012 Author Share Posted September 20, 2012 Glad the pix helped ya. yeah I dunno what that little bearing is for either, ANYONE KNOW? Back to work.... Cleaned all the oooey gooey sludgy fudgy mess off the crossmemeber. Used Washing fluid to break down the oils, scrubbed with green pad then used Soapy water to clean it up. Gonna repaint the entire engine bay satin black (Engine Enamel) Fork with new Throw-out bearing. Inspection plate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 I Really Like how you are Doing the Restoration on that Beautiful Subie, Also I Agree that this is the right Moment to Paint the Whole Engine Bay, but maybe you can Choose Different Colours... in my Case, I Choosed Black for the Firewall and the Rest is painted Yellow like the Rest of my "BumbleBeast" but since it was Engine -ceramic- Enamel, it Looks "Darker" than the Rest of the Car. ... ... I Like that Photo! Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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