Ricearu Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 Learned a couple of valuable lessons last night. Lesson one. EJ22 Flexplates are about 1/2 smaller than EJ25's (overall diameter) Found this out THROUGH the tiny bolt "inspection" hole. Lesson Two. Don't leave your engine hoist boom up at about 5 1/2 feef off the ground in the dark. Bent the SHNIZZ out of my glasses and knocked me to the ground. I saw stars. I still have a lump/bruise on my forehead. Im most pissed that I have to pull the engine again... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstone Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 ouch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted February 14, 2012 Author Share Posted February 14, 2012 double ouch. pride and head LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 The EJ22 flexplates also have a deeper dish to them than the EJ25 ones. I bet you had to crank down on the bellhousing bolts to pull it together, didn't you? I hope you didn't break the pump in the transmission. It should have just bent the flexplate back instead of crushing the pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted February 15, 2012 Author Share Posted February 15, 2012 it wasn't too hard to get them to mate. I hope it works now... grrrr. I HATE automatics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 I did that the first time I did a 2.5 to 2.2 swap. Common mistake. We have all done it once. I do the flex-plate first after getting the engine seated in the x-member. Always. The one time I did that it did not hurt the transmission. I was able to swap to the 2.5 flex-plate and everything was fine. The automatics are great transmissions. They don't have many of the problems the MT's have. And the flex-plate bolts are not that hard to deal with once you have the process down. What I don't like is the lower tranny cooler line. That's a pain in the rump roast. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted February 17, 2012 Author Share Posted February 17, 2012 thanks for the input GD, it makes me feel better I am at the Indianapolis dealer expo now so car work has halted, but I will be right back at it on monday or thursday. And yes, on all 3 auto subies that have had the radiators out, I just cut the hoses and replace them with nice new supple Gates transmission cooler hose. I just wish I could find a source for 10mm hose, not this 3/8" stuff. Good time to replace them anyways, I learned the first time I tried to get bugger break loose, I busted my hands all to hell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 I quite like the automatic. I prefer a manual in my fun car. But in my every day car, it's awesome. It's actually easier to seat back up than a manual once you figure out a method for the TQ bolts. The only time I've ever said I HATE THE AUTOMATIC. Is when I had a seized engine... Other than that, it's been awesome. The lower tranny line on the radiator doesn't even bother me that much. I take the rad hoses off, top cooler line off, fan connectors off. Then the radiator can come partly out at an angle. At that point you have more than enough room to comfortably get two hands down there and disconnect the line. Then quickly yank the rad out and store it front down so you don't get oil all over the place.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 Something I've discovered about flex-plate to TC bolts.... I now have a small car lift in my garage and can lift the car easily. I put the car about 18" off the ground and then I setup my bottle jack and jack the engine and tranny free from the cross-member (after doing the exhaust, the motor mounts, pitching stopper, and all that other fun stuff on the top). Then I remove the bell-housing dust cover and access the TC bolts from there. With the engine lifted about 3" to 4" they are easily accessed with a 3/8 drive socket and wobbly. Versus doing them from the hole on top of the engine. If the manifold is off then it's no problem to do them from there but otherwise it's often much simpler down below. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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