kanurys Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 Oh god. Block of those ASV's. Those things are horrible. I made sheet metal plates for the ports on the heads right by the exhaust manifold. Lots of people also do the quarter trick. Just search for it. Also, block off the big port on the EGR valve body. I can't remember what the wire is but if you have the choke wired up and the coolant temp sensor wired up, then you probably don't need it. It sounds like it might be running a little rich and the black soot on the tail pipe would be a sign of that. Pull a spark plug and if it's black then you need to lean it out some more. Clean the plug before you put it back in so you know what it's doing next time you pull it. One more thing. Hook that PCV system up right. What you have there will relive pressure in the crank case, but won't draw air across it or reburn the blow-by gasses. Check my previous post... I'll go to the garage and look at the jetting on my old carb and post back here in a sec. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moosen Posted March 27, 2012 Author Share Posted March 27, 2012 Oh god. Block of those ASV's. Those things are horrible. I made sheet metal plates for the ports on the heads right by the exhaust manifold. Lots of people also do the quarter trick. Just search for it. Also, block off the big port on the EGR valve body. I can't remember what the wire is but if you have the choke wired up and the coolant temp sensor wired up, then you probably don't need it. It sounds like it might be running a little rich and the black soot on the tail pipe would be a sign of that. Pull a spark plug and if it's black then you need to lean it out some more. Clean the plug before you put it back in so you know what it's doing next time you pull it. One more thing. Hook that PCV system up right. What you have there will relive pressure in the crank case, but won't draw air across it or reburn the blow-by gasses. Check my previous post... I'll go to the garage and look at the jetting on my old carb and post back here in a sec. asv's? but my oil pressure gauge says i have no oil pressure? and I just re jetted it to make it way leaner? that black soot is from before Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanurys Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 asv's? but my oil pressure gauge says i have no oil pressure? and I just re jetted it to make it way leaner? that black soot is from before ASV = air suck valve. Most of us eliminate them. It's the thing making a loud exhaust noise that you put your hand over in the video. Search around the forum. It might be lean, too. Crashing can be either. Sometimes the fuel pump is worn out and not delivering enough fuel. Make sure everything is to spec, including float clearance. I'm running: primary main 130 secondary main 140 primary air corrector 190 secondary air corrector 210 This jetting ran fine at 5000-10000 feet. Not sure which idle jets, but I turned my idle mixture screw 2.5 turns out from closed. I set the idle at 900 rpm when warm. Everything ran great. The other thing it might be is poor vacuum advance. Make sure you have it hooked up to the carb properly (not to the egr port) and that the car is fully warmed up or it won't advance the distributor. The distributor timing advance needs to be pushed forward to more like 14+ degrees to work smoothly with the weber. edit: low oil pressure is normal for these engines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moosen Posted March 27, 2012 Author Share Posted March 27, 2012 ASV = air suck valve. Most of us eliminate them. It's the thing making a loud exhaust noise that you put your hand over in the video. Search around the forum. It might be lean, too. Crashing can be either. Sometimes the fuel pump is worn out and not delivering enough fuel. Make sure everything is to spec, including float clearance. I'm running: primary main 130 secondary main 140 primary air corrector 190 secondary air corrector 210 This jetting ran fine at 5000-10000 feet. Not sure which idle jets, but I turned my idle mixture screw 2.5 turns out from closed. I set the idle at 900 rpm when warm. Everything ran great. The other thing it might be is poor vacuum advance. Make sure you have it hooked up to the carb properly (not to the egr port) and that the car is fully warmed up or it won't advance the distributor. The distributor timing advance needs to be pushed forward to more like 14+ degrees to work smoothly with the weber. edit: low oil pressure is normal for these engines. it shows no oil pressure. I don't know how to adjust timing? I am running main 130 secondary 135, air primary 200, secondary 190, idle main 50 secondary 45. Is the ASV causing any harm cause I kinda like the sound vacuum advance? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 (edited) Vacuum Advance is what a Disty uses to adjust Ignition timing through out the changing engine RPMs. Which is why you want the engine hot and at normal idle when adjusting ignition timing. Edited March 27, 2012 by TheLoyale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moosen Posted March 27, 2012 Author Share Posted March 27, 2012 Vacuum Advance is what a Disty uses to adjust Ignition timing through out the changing engine RPMs. Which is why you want the engine hot and at normal idle when adjusting ignition timing. so what do i need to do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 Why do you want to Time the engine? Did you ever touch the distributor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moosen Posted March 27, 2012 Author Share Posted March 27, 2012 Why do you want to Time the engine? Did you ever touch the distributor? I am confused what you are telling me to do Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 To time an EA82 or pretty much any motor with a Distributor and Electronic Ignition (Not 100% about Point based systems) First, remove the little rubber plug on top of the bell housing, look in the hole, you will see the flywheel or Flexplate (Depending if its AT or MT) then, you will need to turn the motor until you see the engraved timing marks on the Flywheel, you will be looking for the mark 20* BTDC (Before Top Dead Center) you then mark that spot with something bright (Yellow crayon) Then, connect the Green (And or White) connector(s) up by the Wiper motor on the driver side firewall, then hook up you timing gun to the #1 Sparkplug wire, Start engine, let run till at operating temp and idle (500-750rpm) then, point the timing light into the bell housing through the window where the timing marks can be seen. You will then see your mark, line that up with the little arrow on the Bell housing by turning the Disty, Either Advancing or Retarding it to make it line up. Once lined up, tighten down the retaining bolts for the disty (10mm) shut car off, clean up everything and you should be done and ready to roll. -Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 I am confused what you are telling me to do I am not telling you to do anything, you asked what "Vacuum Advance" was, I then told you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kerandt Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 Did you get your oil pressure back? Should be the longer wire you held in the video. On my GL it runs down along the dip stick to the oil sender unit. You probably just forgot you unplugged it? You're almost there! How's it feel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moosen Posted March 27, 2012 Author Share Posted March 27, 2012 The distributor timing advance needs to be pushed forward to more like 14+ degrees to work smoothly with the weber. this!? and do i need to plug the asv or can i leave it open? I think it kinda sounds cool? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 this!? and do i need to plug the asv or can i leave it open? I think it kinda sounds cool? I just read the rest of Kanurys post, I now understand what both of you were talking about. He is saying the vac line that runs to the Carb which controls the Vac Advance of the Disty, may not be hooked up right, giving you some running issues (if any) as it is NOT advancing the timing during revving. Before adjusting the timing, make sure the Vac Advance is working correctly first, if it is, and is still not running 100% then worry about advancing your ignition timing. As for the ASV, I am not 100% sure on that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moosen Posted March 27, 2012 Author Share Posted March 27, 2012 Did you get your oil pressure back? Should be the longer wire you held in the video. On my GL it runs down along the dip stick to the oil sender unit. You probably just forgot you unplugged it? You're almost there! How's it feel? I could swear there is already something plugged into that? but I will check again tomorrow. It has a lot more power which I like. and sounds beautiful. But tuning is annoying... and I am interested to see how my gas mileage becomes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moosen Posted March 27, 2012 Author Share Posted March 27, 2012 I just read the rest of Kanurys post, I now understand what both of you were talking about. He is saying the vac line that runs to the Carb which controls the Vac Advance of the Disty, may not be hooked up right, giving you some running issues (if any) as it is NOT advancing the timing during revving. Before adjusting the timing, make sure the Vac Advance is working correctly first, if it is, and is still not running 100% then worry about advancing your ignition timing. As for the ASV, I am not 100% sure on that. oops my bad i thought you were the one that posted kanury's post as well. anyways I don't think that my timing is bad and I have the disty hooked upt o the righ vacuum port on the weber Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanurys Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 A weber-ed EA82 runs a little better with more distributor advance than the with the hitachi. Part of the crashing at wide open throttle problem might be that. Make sure the vacuum line from the distributor advance is plugged into the proper port on the weber before timing. Sounds like reasonable jetting. Try swapping around the air correctors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moosen Posted March 27, 2012 Author Share Posted March 27, 2012 A weber-ed EA82 runs a little better with more distributor advance than the with the hitachi. Part of the crashing at wide open throttle problem might be that. Make sure the vacuum line from the distributor advance is plugged into the proper port on the weber before timing. Sounds like reasonable jetting. Try swapping around the air correctors. yeah i am gonna go to 140 primary 130 secondary jetting. and then bring the air jets down maybe? idk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanurys Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 Seach about the air suck valves. Exhaust gas will pass through them when they fail, being 20+ years old, and melt the plastic resonators. If you like that sound, then do it right with proper leaky exhaust pipes:D Most of the problems you've brought up have be turned over and . Just search around the forum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanurys Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 yeah i am gonna go to 140 primary 130 secondary jetting. and then bring the air jets down maybe? idk When doing this stuff, do one thing at a time so you know how it effects the performance. Don't change a whole bunch of jets at once. It will take a lot of time and getting used to each setting, but you'll eventually get a good combo figured out. Generally, you want to the secondary to flow the same or a little more fuel than the primary because it opens when the throttle is most of the way open. I'd keep the 130 primary, then put a bigger jet in the secondary. I it crashes more easily put a smaller jet in the secondary. I gave you my jetting because then you could have a baseline that worked at your altitude and then mess with other stuff like making sure your distributor advance works, etc... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moosen Posted March 27, 2012 Author Share Posted March 27, 2012 Seach about the air suck valves. Exhaust gas will pass through them when they fail, being 20+ years old, and melt the plastic resonators. If you like that sound, then do it right with proper leaky exhaust pipes:D Most of the problems you've brought up have be turned over and . Just search around the forum. The search function on forums are not the greatest. I am searching for stuff on them but not finding much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 Perhaps type what you are looking for, in the google search bar, it will most likely pop up links to USMB in the search engine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moosen Posted March 27, 2012 Author Share Posted March 27, 2012 Perhaps type what you are looking for, in the google search bar, it will most likely pop up links to USMB in the search engine found it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moosen Posted March 27, 2012 Author Share Posted March 27, 2012 (edited) Okay i really need help on this one. My throttle keeps getting stuck and i have to quickly turn off the engine. The part at the end of the throttle cable that pushes into the bracket to hold the cable to it keeps sliding out to the left and getting hung up on the linkage to the choke plates. How can i prevent this? has anyone else had this problem? If I get this http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/product_p/101.099.htm would I be okay? edit: Gonna try a spot of duct tape for now edit: tape works awesome! Gonna do a more permanent solution sometime soon. Edited March 27, 2012 by Moosen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moosen Posted March 27, 2012 Author Share Posted March 27, 2012 Just re jetted to I'm running: Primary main: 130 Secondary main: 140 Primary air corrector: 190 Secondary air corrector: 200 Primary idle: 50 Secondary idle: 45 it is running a lot smoother. and it dies less when i slam on the accelerator. Which is good. but I don't know if that means I should keep increasing jet size and air corrector size. also plugges the asv and egr intake. Still can't figure out why it shows I have no oil pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanurys Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 Take the old linkage off of your hitachi and bolt on in place of the one on the weber. Works much more smoothly and with more correct pull vs. rotation of the throttle. Sounds like you're starting to enjoy the new carb. I don't think you have to change your jets much, but keep experimenting! I'd start to get the idle mixture screw and idle speed screw dialed in and see how it performs. The idle jets only help in transitions: between idle to slightly open throttle and, between primary and secondary opening up. If you change a jet and it runs worse after a full drive, put it back drive it, change it the other direction and drive it. One at a time. Do some research on oil pressure in the forum search. I'd get an aftermarket oil/temp/volt gauge from online or a parts store to get a better reading of the oil pressure. To diagnose this you'll have to give us a better description of what's going on at several specific rpm readings. It's probably ok, but resealing the oil pump might be your ticket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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