Weber carb for my 87 gl?

[Moosen]

Take the old linkage off of your hitachi and bolt on in place of the one on the weber. Works much more smoothly and with more correct pull vs. rotation of the throttle.

 

Sounds like you're starting to enjoy the new carb. I don't think you have to change your jets much, but keep experimenting! I'd start to get the idle mixture screw and idle speed screw dialed in and see how it performs. The idle jets only help in transitions: between idle to slightly open throttle and, between primary and secondary opening up.

 

If you change a jet and it runs worse after a full drive, put it back drive it, change it the other direction and drive it. One at a time.

 

Do some research on oil pressure in the forum search. I'd get an aftermarket oil/temp/volt gauge from online or a parts store to get a better reading of the oil pressure. To diagnose this you'll have to give us a better description of what's going on at several specific rpm readings. It's probably ok, but resealing the oil pump might be your ticket.

 

Oh i already had taken the old linkage off. it's all figured out now

 

got the oil pressure figured out. Wasn't connected but appeared to be till i reached my hand down there. ahaha silly me.

 

Yeah I am loving my new weber. just a couple more tweaks and she is there! Excited to see what my gas mileage is going to be like!

 

now onto the cv axle. hopefully that gets done quickly

[kanurys]

Mileage depends on you. That weber can flow more than your Hitachi or finesse more mpg out of the engine, depending on how you drive it. The jetting I set up worked well for finessing the primary for normal diving but blew the doors off when you floored it.

Edited March 28, 2012 by kanurys

[Moosen]

Mileage depends on you. That weber can flow more than your Hitachi or finesse more mpg out of the engine, depending on how you drive it. The jetting I set up worked well for finessing the primary for normal diving but blew the doors off when you floored it.

 

Yeah i wanna average around 25 at least around town just driving hard. i drive up and down the mountain a lot. and then on the highway to and from town i wanna get like 30+. so we will see

[Moosen]

 

 

 

[desertsubaru]

Thats great! Glad to see you Got r done.

[kanurys]

Fix your pcv system and get the egr hooked up. Your engine will thank you.

[desertsubaru]

Fix your pcv system and get the egr hooked up. Your engine will thank you.

I have run my EA82 with no EGR and with the PCV plugged and have not noticed any difference in the way it performs or fuel mileage. I do not suggest plugging the PCV and your car may differ then mine.

[kanurys]

I've done quite a bit of research on egr and pcv setups. The benefits of setting them up properly outweigh omitting them. The PCV system allows blow-by gasses and unburnt gasoline to be re-consumed by the engine. Without the gentle vacuume imposed by the pcv valve and system, these things will degrade oil very quickly and result in poor lubrication of the cylinder wall and other components. When the engine produces a specific range of vacuum, the pcv valve opens and allows the evaporated blow-by products and water vapor to be re-burnt and passed out of the engine instead of creating a sespool in the crank-case.

 

The EGR also opens at certain defined rpms/vacuum scenarios and introduces unconsumeable gases to the combustion process. This has the effect of reducing pinging, decreasing the chance of burnt valves (and ea82's ping like a bastard with timing set correctly) as well as decreasing combustion temperatures, therefore reducing carbon monoxide emissions and other nasty outputs.

 

When hooked up to the weber correctly (yes there is a port specifically to actuate egr valve on the weber), both of these things will actually make the engine run better and have longer life, as well as be better for the environment.

 

Your engine might run fine as set up, but doing it right has many benefits. This stuff is not on there just because of California emissions laws, it actually helps the little guy run better.

[Moosen]

So i was just messing with jetting. I think I am still running rich cause when i start up my car a little fuel drips out the muffler. and my gas mileage is still not great. also another symptom is when i am at idle and then floor the throttle, the car briefly dies then revs up? and sometimes it backfires when i do that?

 

Any ideas. I am basically at minimum main jet sizes. 130 primary 135 secondary. and my air jets are primary 190 and secondary 210.

 

could the dying then revving when i floor it be cause by my idle jets?

[Loyale 2.7 Turbo]

Your Subie Weber Setup Looks almost Equal to Mine's... Did you Use the TransDapt Adaper?

I Run mine at 140 on Low and 162 on High without Any Issues... Maybe yours only needs some Adjustment to the Idle Mixture.

 

Kind Regards.

[Moosen]

Your Subie Weber Setup Looks almost Equal to Mine's... Did you Use the TransDapt Adaper?

I Run mine at 140 on Low and 162 on High without Any Issues... Maybe yours only needs some Adjustment to the Idle Mixture.

 

Kind Regards.

 

I am at elevation 5500 ft

[kanurys]

What is the rpm at idle and fully warm? How many turns our is your idle mixture screw? Is the choke fully opened when it is warm? Did you check and clean the spark plugs like mentioned before? Did you verify your ignition timing like we mentioned? Poor ignition timing advance will cause this sort of symptom.

 

If it idles fine and it moves through the primary barel fine, then it might be a jetting or transitional problem with the secondary barel.

[Moosen]

What is the rpm at idle and fully warm? How many turns our is your idle mixture screw? Is the choke fully opened when it is warm? Did you check and clean the spark plugs like mentioned before? Did you verify your ignition timing like we mentioned? Poor ignition timing advance will cause this sort of symptom.

 

If it idles fine and it moves through the primary barel fine, then it might be a jetting or transitional problem with the secondary barel.

 

idle warm at just under 900

 

idle mixture is out 1 4/6ish turns. I have my main jet at 135 and secondary at 140 now.

 

choke is open when warm

 

checked the plugs and they were good

 

dont have a tool to check the timing... is it necessary?

 

its better but still bogs under power from idle.. also I am still getting terrible gas mileage? can running too lean be the issue?

[kanurys]

It can exhibit the same external symptoms. First, do you have the vacuum advance hooked up between the distributor and the carb?

[Moosen]

It can exhibit the same external symptoms. First, do you have the vacuum advance hooked up between the distributor and the carb?

 

Yes sir.

 

I know how to check the timing i think. But i just need the tool.

[kanurys]

ok, loosen the two bolts that hold the distributor but don't remove them, just slightly loosen them.

 

Now, looking down on the dist. rotate it about 1 to 2 degrees Clock-wise (manual timing advance). Tighten the bolts to *snug* and see if it made a difference in how it responds when floored. Take it for a drive. Turn it another degree if desired.

 

When you floor it or are climbing a long big hill, if it pings a lot back the advance off a bit till the pinging goes away.

 

When satisfied, torque the bolts appropriately and re-tune the carb one more time.

 

Rotating the distributor can be done while the engine is running if the bolts are still in place.

[kanurys]

when you retune the carb, try a half or one more turn open on the idle mixture screw... remember, one thing at a time.

[Moosen]

ok, loosen the two bolts that hold the distributor but don't remove them, just slightly loosen them.

 

Now, looking down on the dist. rotate it about 1 to 2 degrees Clock-wise (manual timing advance). Tighten the bolts to *snug* and see if it made a difference in how it responds when floored. Take it for a drive. Turn it another degree if desired.

 

When you floor it or are climbing a long big hill, if it pings a lot back the advance off a bit till the pinging goes away.

 

When satisfied, torque the bolts appropriately and re-tune the carb one more time.

 

Rotating the distributor can be done while the engine is running if the bolts are still in place.

 

i think it might be pinging now. there is a weird rattling type noise in the engine and i can't figure it out. pinging?

[kanurys]

yep. back it off ccw

[kanurys]

pinging is detonation before the piston is in the right position and ready for a spark. It can be caused by early spark or dieseling. This burns valves over long periods of time. You want it to run as advanced as possible without ever pinging.

 

Running the EGR also helps reduce this.

 

Then go tune your carb

[Moosen]

pinging is detonation before the piston is in the right position and ready for a spark. It can be caused by early spark or dieseling. This burns valves over long periods of time. You want it to run as advanced as possible without ever pinging.

 

Running the EGR also helps reduce this.

 

Then go tune your carb

 

still haven't figured out how to hook up egr? any help? When i adjusted the advance it didn't seem to make any difference. the sound i am hearing is almost like someone is stick a screwdriver in a tin can and rattling it around?

[Loyale 2.7 Turbo]

Does your EA82's Disty still have the two port Vacuum Advance?

There are Two Vacuum Ports in front of the Weber Carb...

 

The one on the Right is for the Disttribuitor's Vacuum Advance.

 

The one on the Left is for the EGR Vacuum Valve.

 

There is a Question that I Asked and Remains unanswered, Just Curious:

 

...

 

Did you Use the TransDapt Adaper?

 

...

 

And I Drive my Weberized BumbleBeast between the Sea Level and up to 4,000 Feet over the Sea Level in my extremely mountainous country without any Problems.

 

I've only noticed that it doesn't Like the Regular Gasoline, really my BumbleBeast works better with Higher Octanes.

 

Kind Regards.

[Moosen]

Does your EA82's Disty still have the two port Vacuum Advance?

There are Two Vacuum Ports in front of the Weber Carb...

 

The one on the Right is for the Disttribuitor's Vacuum Advance.

 

The one on the Left is for the EGR Vacuum Valve.

 

There is a Question that I Asked and Remains unanswered, Just Curious:

 

 

 

And I Drive my Weberized BumbleBeast between the Sea Level and up to 4,000 Feet over the Sea Level in my extremely mountainous country without any Problems.

 

I've only noticed that it doesn't Like the Regular Gasoline, really my BumbleBeast works better with Higher Octanes.

 

Kind Regards.

 

yes i did use the transadpt. Still had to bang in the power steering reservoir though.

 

I just put a bigger secondary main jet in. 135 primary 145 secondary. And i am at 1 1/2 turns out. runs really smooth and at about 700 rpm's. But now when i floor it from idle it actually backfires? what does this mean?

[Moosen]

pinging is detonation before the piston is in the right position and ready for a spark. It can be caused by early spark or dieseling. This burns valves over long periods of time. You want it to run as advanced as possible without ever pinging.

 

Running the EGR also helps reduce this.

 

Then go tune your carb

 

oh also it wasnt pinging. I read up online on some other forums and found out that it is just my heat shield. rusted through the bolt and now the heat shield is loose and rattling against muffler. Easy fix

[Loyale 2.7 Turbo]

yes i did use the transadpt. Still had to bang in the power steering reservoir though...

 

Thank you for your Kind Answer.

 

The Choke Still Hits there? ... I didn't knew it 'cos I removed all the Choke Stuff from my Weber and Sent it to another USMB Friend, in Australia. We Don't Need much the Choke here in the Warm Caribbean.

 

 

...I just put a bigger secondary main jet in. 135 primary 145 secondary. And i am at 1 1/2 turns out. runs really smooth and at about 700 rpm's. But now when i floor it from idle it actually backfires? what does this mean?

 

That Means that Something is Wrong with the Timing...

 

Running my EA82 with a Weber, made me to Swap the Two Port Vacuum Advance with a Single Port one, but not all EA82's Distribuitors are Equal... Mine uses two Clamps to hold the Cap.

 

Pics & Part Numbers of that are on my Weber Writeup, Click on my Avatar.

 

I Discovered that my Weberized EA82 BumbleBeast works Better with the ignition Timing in 20º Degrees ... Even if the Sticker under the Hood says that the "Normal" Timing should be Placed at 8º and could vary + or - 2º

 

Could you Determine How much Advanced / Retarded is your engine's ignition Timing Right Now? ... I'm Almost Sure that it needs to be Advanced a Little More.

 

Kanurys explained a Simple Procedure to do it by the Test Mode (Without a Light Gun) and that simple procedure could Work Fine, I used to do that also.

 

Good Luck!

Kind Regards.