mickytrus Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 Anyone, have any tricks to doing an oil pan gasket while motor is in car...... Like I can loosen the motor mounts... and lift the motor up... Is it alright to support the motor by the heads? Or is this bad juju.......... It is those last bolts near the rear inspection plate... and holding the motor up that are my concerns.... I don't have an engine hoist or... an a-frame........ Thanks, Micky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 A long time ago, before i had a bunch of tools, I did and EJ22 oil pan in the back yard. Basically, I removed the 2 nuts on the engine to crossmember mounts, and removed the pitchstopper at the firewall. Then removed the coolant hoses to the radiator. And probably disconnected the airbox stuff and a few other little things. I then took my small floor jack, and with some thick plywood about 24" x 24", I jacked it up under the auto trans drain pan, being careful, you don't want to smash that pan. once the engine got high enough, i braced it with some other 4x4 wood blocks to hold it from coming back down. Then i removed the oil pan bolts, pryed the pan off, and put a new one back on using RTV ultra grey. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 Use a bottle jack and a small bit of wood to jack the engine free of the cradle - do this on the transmission bell-housing right behind the engine. Clean up all the surfaces and don't use a gasket - just use Ultra Grey RTV or Loctite 518/Permatex Anaerobic. Cork blows..... GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytrus Posted February 15, 2012 Author Share Posted February 15, 2012 Ok, Sounds good.... Question on the omission of the cork gasket... which I can relate to............ :dead:When I use the "spooge".... ultra grey........ any procedure to tightening? Do I tighten but leave the ultra grey space between the mating surfaces to dry(say 3/16"- setup space). and then when the product dries.... tighten?????? to "torque specs" Thanks, Micky.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 Naw - just torque the bolts. I think it's around 55 In/lbs but look it up and make sure. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytrus Posted February 15, 2012 Author Share Posted February 15, 2012 Thanks, Sounds good.:headbang::headbang: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 Ok,Sounds good.... Question on the omission of the cork gasket... which I can relate to............ :dead:When I use the "spooge".... ultra grey........ any procedure to tightening? Do I tighten but leave the ultra grey space between the mating surfaces to dry(say 3/16"- setup space). and then when the product dries.... tighten?????? to "torque specs" Thanks, Micky.... Hey Mickey, There is nothing wrong with using the cork gasket, sounds like he's trying to convince you to delete it. Subaru didn't give you too much clearance down there for you to leave it out. When it's very cold out the oil will have a harder time getting to the oil pump putting more strain on your oil system. At higher RPM the oil will also have a harder time doing it's thing with the reduced clearance. It's a less than five buck gasket and what you can do is coat the whole thing with Permatex Ultra Black, (suipposed to be the most oil resistant) and bolt it on. If you want to have it reusable, place wax paper on the block put the coated gasket in place, place wax paper between the gasket and pan and screw it down. Wait for it to dry, pull it back off remove the wax paper and you have a very durable reuseable gasket. Keep in mind, any silicone is best if you leave it sit for twenty four hours to cure. hth Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytrus Posted February 15, 2012 Author Share Posted February 15, 2012 Dig it.... Thanks for the input Q Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 There is no need for the pan gasket. I've done dozens of these engines without the gasket. It's troublesome and uneccesary and will eventually fail. The aftermarket cork is very soft compared to the dealer part also so it's not "five bucks" either. It's about $12. Doug is paranoid and I've proven mathematically that the .030" reduction in pan to pickup tube clearance is minor and not a source of oil flow restriction. You can check out these posts: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=1055286&postcount=47 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=1077906&postcount=136 GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytrus Posted February 17, 2012 Author Share Posted February 17, 2012 Yeah, I have seen that gasket just degrade... and offer zero support..... I an not going to use the gasket.. I am not sure when I will attack this....... I am getting a little toasted... been keeping late hours for about a week working on this pup (Jackson Ho') is her name. Toninght I will start it up.... Hopefully, she will pur like a kitten...... I ended up replacing the tensioners and the idler gear...... as well as all the gaskets and seals above the pan...(less the rear seal) Used MilesFoxes.... Grand Head resurfing technique.....(thanks again) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 heres a trick dich the stupid gasket and use grey sillacon like they do on newer engines then u only do it one time the gaskets like to leak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 Probably not the oil pan that's leaking unless someone has taken it off and put a gasket on it before. Much more common leak , and almost always mistaken for an oil pan leak, is the separator plate. Did you replace reseal that? If not, you need to. http://beergarage.com/SubySeparator.aspx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 Ok guys, let me give you some advice about using only silicone as a pan gasket. As a rule, I always let the vehicle sit overnight without any fluids in it to give the silicone time to set up and harden. I have seen ones that haven't let set and they will leak fairly quickly. So if you plan on going this route no matter what engine you're doing it on, give it time to set up before adding fluids. Same goes for automatic transmission pans too which I use genuine Subaru Three bond (the pink stuff). Many years ago, I did a new oil pan gasket on my '78 Brat and it leaked bad after a few miles of running it. Wasn't kinked or folded, just didn't have enough time to set up. This happened on the day I was supposed to head to WCSS6 and ended up leaving the car at home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 Ok guys, let me give you some advice about using only silicone as a pan gasket. As a rule, I always let the vehicle sit overnight without any fluids in it I have not found this to apply to properly applied Permatex Anaerobic or Loctite 518. I have done multiple pans with these products and ran them immediately with no leaks. It's a great product and has virtually replaced all the RTV I use. It's easier to work with, never goes bad in the tube, doesn't stick permanently to rags and clothing, and cleans up easy. I do concur that RTV does seem to require some setup time for best adhesion and leak resistance. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivantruckman Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 The cork gasket does indeed blow , I agree with this approach , I go one step further and flatten the oil pan surface with a body hammer , and also file the high spots, they are usually over torqued and have high spots around the bolt holes. I have had good results with this as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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