oleman77 Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 Hey guys need some help. Looked for some threads on fuel issues but really didn't find anything that helped yet. This is what's happening on my 86 EA GL. It started yesterday when I was going to lunch. It started just fine and as I started to head off it putted for a little then died. It would restart but only run at idle for a few seconds. If I tried to give it gas it would try to go but eventually die. After a few minutes of trying to get her going it finally wouldn't even try anymore. I let it sit for 5 hours. It then started fine and I drove her home. This morning same thing happened, started fine but after a few minutes she died. It would run for a little at idle but hen die. Same as yesterday. Im thinking its fuel related (at least I think so). Started looking for fuel pump and found what I think is the fuel pump in front of RR wheel. Its on a sort of metal shelf but its square. All the fuel pumps I've seen online are round. Here's some pics of what I found... Is this my fuel pump? Any thoughts on what I can troubleshoot to find problem? Appreciate the help guys....pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 Yes,check fuel level in the carby sight glass. Tape a fuel pressure gauge to the OUTSIDE of the window. Check voltage at the pump.Ground too if needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 check fuel pressure. before i had a fuel pressure gauge i would pull the fuel line in the engine bay and crank the car. if the pump is dead then sometimes it's really obvious if you don't have a fuel pressure gauge to work with. a gauge would be nice though, quickly verify if that's the issue. of course you always have the possibility that it's flowing but not enough...if that's possible with a carb? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oleman77 Posted February 17, 2012 Author Share Posted February 17, 2012 Thanks guys. I'll get a pressure gauge and see what I have for pressure.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyfun Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 Could be a lot of things, but fuel is a good place to start, especially since these cars are notorious for having problems with the fuel pump relay and poor wiring going to the pump. With any luck it's the relay, or a poor ground, or even a loose fuse. If you have a multimeter, might see if any juice is getting to the pump connector, and if the ground is good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oleman77 Posted February 18, 2012 Author Share Posted February 18, 2012 Ok guys I have done a little bit of work today. I replaced both fuel filters. The one upstream of the fuel pump and the one right before the carb (i have a Weber). Installed an inline pressure gauge. The car did start and the most pressure I did see was 2-3#. I felt the pump while the car was running and did feel it pumping. One thing that I noticed is that the fuel filter (its clear) right before the carb is empty and I can barley see a stream of fuel coming into the filter. Although the car continued to run at idle I'm sure if I took off down the street it would not keep up. So it appears I have a weak pump. I have heard people say it could be the fuel relay but I'm not sure the pump would even run if the relay was bad. Anyone else concur? Thanks guys.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 If the realy was bad, the pump wuld not operate or operate intermittently. I would vote for the pump itself failing. You can replace it with a generic inline rated for the 7-8 psi or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 (edited) 2-3 sounds perfect. Tape the gauge to the windhield.Go for a drive.If pressure remains 2-3 you are golden. You could try a volume test if you are concerned. Spec is around 28 litres/hour. Edited February 18, 2012 by naru Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyfun Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 Have you tried running jumper wires to the pump to see if the pressure improves? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oleman77 Posted February 18, 2012 Author Share Posted February 18, 2012 Have you tried running jumper wires to the pump to see if the pressure improves? No I have not run wires straight to the pump. Sounds like an easy check. I will do that tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oleman77 Posted February 18, 2012 Author Share Posted February 18, 2012 2-3 sounds perfect.Tape the gauge to the windhield.Go for a drive.If pressure remains 2-3 you are golden. You could try a volume test if you are concerned. Spec is around 28 litres/hour. You would think 2-3 pounds would be enough to fill the filter. There was barley any coming into filter. The pressure did go down to 1 pound. I'm still thinking weak pump but will run a hot from the battery to see if pressure increases. sounds like relay is ok because the pump is running steady when the car is running. Remember this is an intermittent problem and right now the car is cooperating. Need to look at things when the car dies as it did yesterday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oleman77 Posted February 18, 2012 Author Share Posted February 18, 2012 If the realy was bad, the pump wuld not operate or operate intermittently. I would vote for the pump itself failing. You can replace it with a generic inline rated for the 7-8 psi or so. So should I expect 7-8 out if my OEM pump or is 2-3 normal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oleman77 Posted February 18, 2012 Author Share Posted February 18, 2012 Could be a lot of things, but fuel is a good place to start, especially since these cars are notorious for having problems with the fuel pump relay and poor wiring going to the pump. With any luck it's the relay, or a poor ground, or even a loose fuse. If you have a multimeter, might see if any juice is getting to the pump connector, and if the ground is good. Should I have 12 volts to the pump? So with 2 wires one is the hot and the other goes to ground? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 Yes. You can also ground to the body to get a reading. You can hardwire the ground from the pump to the body if necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aba4430 Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 Some leads for replacement fuel pumps, in case you need a new one - I bought this one at ADAP for <$40 (with coupon). It is a Airtex boxed Kyosandenki pump from Japan (see picture). My original pump is not bad and the truck is working well. So I am keeping the new one as a spare. The Kyosandenki has the OEM connector, shelf and all, and is ready to bolt in. My problem was a 1/4 tank of gas that had been in for 2.5 years. I just replaced my HGs (over Christmas) and got the truck back on the road, so started having some trouble due to the old fuel. Had to replace the filters, and some lines. The vapor separator is usually full as visible in the engine compartment (few large bubbles visible at the top, after I shut the car off). I am probably still getting some crap from the tank, as it continues to clean out, based on intermittant idle issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oleman77 Posted February 19, 2012 Author Share Posted February 19, 2012 Some leads for replacement fuel pumps, in case you need a new one - I bought this one at ADAP for <$40 (with coupon). It is a Airtex boxed Kyosandenki pump from Japan (see picture). My original pump is not bad and the truck is working well. So I am keeping the new one as a spare. The Kyosandenki has the OEM connector, shelf and all, and is ready to bolt in. My problem was a 1/4 tank of gas that had been in for 2.5 years. I just replaced my HGs (over Christmas) and got the truck back on the road, so started having some trouble due to the old fuel. Had to replace the filters, and some lines. The vapor separator is usually full as visible in the engine compartment (few large bubbles visible at the top, after I shut the car off). I am probably still getting some crap from the tank, as it continues to clean out, based on intermittant idle issues. Cool, thanks for the info.....pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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