Regasket job car don't start 91 Loyale

[mickytrus]

So it started as a timing belt breaking.

This was due to a seized tensioner. The

one on the distributor side. I wasn't driving

the car when this happened.

So I towed it home about twenty miles

with my other Loyale..... White following the

black one....

Anyway, At home I decided to regasket the

motor. She leaked like a pig away....

In an earlier post last week... I had a thread

going about cracked heads.....

They were Gen2 heads..... After the

Ea82 was reassembled I did a compression test

all cylinders are over 150psi.... they are more

like 155psi.......

I did the timing belts with the proper procedure

(three notches on the fly wheel... driver side belt

first... cam gear lined up with notch in cover......

spin flywheel once around do passenger belt.......

I did have the distributor out.... due to it was

electrolysised into the cambox.... I believe this was

set in properly..... Passeger side first cylinder being

#1 and TDC #1 compression.........

I have been checking the timing belts as I went

through this not starting frenzie... the seem to be

the same... and correct........

SO IF YOU READ THIS POST THIS FAR..........

Observations:

When I crank the car over..(attempting to start it)

.... the tachometer jumps up and down all over the place.

from zero up to 8000 grand..... true Spasticity.........

NOW.. the other thing I did was while cranking I pulled

the coil wire off and left it close to the distributor to see

if a spark jumps...... There was no spark jumping.......

WHAT do you's think?????:-\

I am thinking Coil ..... COmputer..........

bad ground....... It is just that tach jumping........

I remember once....I had a bad alternator....

and the dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree........

So......:-\ some......

[man on the moon]

I test the disty by pulling a plug wire off, and putting something skinny and metal up there, and holding it 1/8 inch or so from a ground point. Not sure how close your wire was to it's mount but it may have been too far away just going by what I remember of the plastic and rubber housings around there.

 

You can also feel the zapping if you grab a wire for a few seconds, it tingles your funny bone. The distributor could be off a tooth or two, watch MilesFox's video or use the search function to figure out how to align it. The chilton's description is very inadequate.

 

It will still throw a spark if it's set wrong, it just throws it at the wrong time/place.

[mickytrus]

I will check the spark at a wire

To the plug by sending spark

To ground. Look for spark

At the gap

Thanks

[MilesFox]

1. make sure the disty is not 180 off on the exhaust stroke. verify this when the passenger side cam dot is pointing at the top hard edge of the valve cover. The driver side will be pointing at the bottom hard edge. Supposedly there is a dot on the disty gear to align with the cam gear.

 

2. make sure the fuel lines are not reversed. Tge side from the pressure reg. is the return side. The top line on the intake is the supply line.

 

I like to use a spare spark plug to test spark with.

 

Check fuse #5

 

check the wires on the coil, the black ones are positive, the yellow ones are negative. the blue wire from the transistor goes to positive. Make sure the transistor is plugged in to its own harness on the body.

 

make sure the ground wire is connected on the water pipe. One to the battery, the other one to the coil.

[mickytrus]

1. make sure the disty is not 180 off on the exhaust stroke. verify this when the passenger side cam dot is pointing at the top hard edge of the valve cover. The driver side will be pointing at the bottom hard edge. Supposedly there is a dot on the disty gear to align with the cam gear.

Cool, I watch your vid on this.... It is nice.... I normally would spin

the motor over with my finger over the spark plug hole and feel the

compression. The visual way you mention is easier.......

This checks out and looks good....

 

2. make sure the fuel lines are not reversed. Tge side from the pressure reg. is the return side. The top line on the intake is the supply line.

I checked the fuel lines....... I sort of have a subie farm..........

I have two wagons in running condition, and two flower pots....

(retired generals - well deserving of their retirement)

I looked on the other one that is running.....

THis checks out and looks good.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I like to use a spare spark plug to test spark with.

I will remember this.... good idea.......

I am working alone.... so I got this idea.... I took

my inductive timing light and set it up on a spark

plug wire and turned the motor over....

no spark ..(timing light never flashed)...

(proof) :horse:So I thought maybe the motor is not spinning fast enough for inductive timing light to light.(cause car not running)..

.... So I took it out to the running Loyale(AKA:Ho'tel) and just crank it

enough so it would not start but turn distributor.

When the distributor lined up with the wire the inductor

for the timing light was on... IT did light..... So this

proof says: timing light is a good way to check for spark

(when you are alone and have to crank motor and observe.)

 

 

Check fuse #5

I checked the fuse for ignition coil and fuse pump...

It looks good........(don't know what you mean fuse #5)

 

check the wires on the coil, the black ones are positive, the yellow ones are negative. the blue wire from the transistor goes to positive. Make sure the transistor is plugged in to its own harness on the body.

I didn't need to move the coil... the only thing I did was

to unplug the distributor from the harness..... I plugged

that in,,, and unplugged and plugged it in again.......

So this is good.......

 

make sure the ground wire is connected on the water pipe.

THis is good cleaned it with a wire brush.

 

One to the battery, the other one to the coil.

With regards to the ground of the battery..

There is definitely something wrong.. with the

key in the off position.... I disconnect the

-ground battery terminal positive still connected.

And I reconnect the ground gently allowing a

space so a spark could jump(if there is one)

and I get a spark... Also I hear clicking near

the rear drivers side tail light. and some kind

of momentary hum in the engine compartment

on the passengerside.

ALSO.... when I put the key in the position

where the fuel pump can pressurize the fuel line

It runs till pressure is obtained and then stops

and runs and stops and runs.... and sometime

it eventually stops and sometimes is just keeps

running. AND also the tach jumps up to 8K

and back down.... and sometimes not.....

basically the tach should be sitting still during

cranking

AND .............. I am looking at the ECU

as the fault here......... NOW......

there is a red LED on the ecu..........

on the car that doesn't start..... it blinks

like this when the key is in the position

where the fuel pump gets energised(guessing run position)

three long blinks then four shorts..........

So I went over to the running Loyale(AKA:Ho'tel)

and looked at the LED there....(LED is visible without

pulling down ECU through hole in cover of ECU)

SO Ho'tel's blink sequence is....... just 5 long blinks.......

I am going to go out to my Subaru farm I guess

and harvest me an ECU...

(from Trixie - she is the 91 Loyale I am paying homage to

for her great bountiful gifts she has provided to make

the Jackson ho' what she is today. Long live the spirit

of Trixie in The Jackson ho' and Ho'tel.)

AND slap it in......... Seems like all these bizarre electrical

anomalies point to that........

If you have this, this far.......... Thanks... and congrats....

Any input would be great And I will update.....

Miles what do you think?

 

[mickytrus]

So the problem is solved.....

It ended up being that the plug on

the transistor was corroded..

So I cleaned out the contacts

inside the plug by scraping it with

a small cotter pin.

Glad I considered cleaning the connection.

Just mind boggling to have a car go down

due to the belt breaking because of a

seized belt tensioner, putting it back together

and having it not start due to a corroded

connection(that I never touched during

the tear-down process)

[man on the moon]

For future reference, the ECU light you were looking at is blinking codes at you. Six short blinks with no long ones means "all is clear". That one is not on the Haynes/Chilton's code list. 34 (Three long, four short) means...I don't remember right off hand. If you use the search function up there ^ I know there is a list on this forum. Chilton's and Haynes manuals also include lists.

 

The long blink is the tens position, the short blink is the ones position. The ECU can blink several codes 'together', so watch until they have repeated. Then you know you have seen them all. The ECU is rarely the problem, and will (usually) save you a lot of time and trouble if you look up the code in the chart. And remember '6' shorts is "all is clear" (for the ECU--could still run out of gas or unplug a spark plug and not show up on the ECU).