lilredjusty88 Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 hey guys was wondering if it is at all possible to down grade the ea82 in my 93 loyale to a ea81 engine, i have heard to many crappy things about the ea82's and was just curious i have everything to make it work except the spare ea81 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 SubieMech85 did this on his Gl-10, putting in a ea81 from his ski wagon in place of the ea82t. there are a couple things he had to do. Switch to a ea81 radiator. lay the ea82 power steering pump in the spare tire sill install a underhood fuel pressure regulator. -the ea82 engine in itself is not really that bad. The ea82t is TERRIBLE though. I myself won't own a ea82 engined car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 Use the ea81 long block with the ea82 spfi intake. You will have to make some clearance mods for the intake. Use the spfi disty, flip the gear upside down to use in the ea81 block. You will have to make some clearance mods the the disty mounting tabs, and probably clock it 180 to fit, route wires accordingly. auto or manual trans? use the ea82 exhaust header swap tghe ea82 pitch stopper mount to the ea81 belhousing. you wil lhave to transfer the timing marks from the ea81 flywheel to the ea82 flywheel to set the timing with a light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lilredjusty88 Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 its a 5spd FWD 93 loyale, also if anyone has a ea81 engine they'd consider trading for a low mileage reabuildable ea82 im game LOL. btw do you happen to know the link to to GL-10 ea82t to ea81 coversion thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 Is there anything really wrong with the engine in your car? The EA82's are fine. They all leak oil, most make some noise from the hydraulic lash adjusters in the heads, and they're gutless, but the one thing they are is reliable. That is, as long as you change the timing belts every 60k. Every single SPFI EA82 I've seen in peoples backyards or in junkyards has still run. It's rust or the 3at transmission that takes them down, not the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 The only disadvantage an ea82 has over an ea81 is more places to leak oil (cam seals, tower o-rings) and the fact that timing belts will need service(or at least the tensioners) The ea82 is a little better in performance. An ea81 you can leave more of it alone. An ea82 water pump fits on an ea81, but the pulley alignment is off half a belts witdh. You can make ea82 anciliaries fot on an ea81, and all of those pulleys match up with an ea82 water pump, but the ea82 crank is still off half a belt width. But this will work and run, but belt will be due for replacement more often. If you are using an ea82 water pump and intake, the ea82 radiator matches the same. The ea82 intake will match the upper hse of an ea82 rad, but the ea81 water pump will need some sort of hybrid hose to match the ea82 rad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lilredjusty88 Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 need i say more when i say it smokes like a freight train, blows oil out the intake, n consumes oil.. but it does run and drive still (yeeehaw subaru!) ppl have told me it has a blown ring on the #1 piston because when i detach the #1 wire it doesnt change the way the motor runs at all, it may even at times make it run better. has WAY too much blowby but STILL RUNS! at only 148,000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maozebong Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 seafoam it, change the oil, fuel filter, plugs and wires if they aren't already new, check the timing belts to make sure they are still in alignment and tight, and put a OEM PCV valve in (from the dealer, yes it does matter. it can mean the difference of chugging down 1qt of oil every 750 miles or 1qt every 3k) change any hoses on the car that show any signs of cracking, and then enjoy your car for the next decade. all this can be done for <$100 and will make any old crusty ea82 that has been sitting in a yard for 8 years, and make it run like a top. there isnt much too bad about the ea82 NON-TURBO, that is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKghandi Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 id like to get my hands on that motor.. just to have a spare ea82t my gl-10 has 245k and runs like a top. its got a leak or 2 but all very slow and it does get up and move when i give it the skinny pedal so much so that ive destroyed the rear diff bushings...twice. also mine has the 3.9 ratio so that does help a little bit i think you should pull that motor out replace all the seals and put a set of spfi pistons in it. i dont think you actually need to crack the block open to do that, and you would get quite a bit more power. this is what im doing when it gets warmer out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lilredjusty88 Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 i dont know if i mentioned it or not it is a ea82 not ea82t what is the diff between the dealer pcv n the auto parts pcv? honestly i prolly waited too long on the pcv n blew the rings, or prolly over revved it just a tadd lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 I've had multiple EA82's past 8,000 rpm with no issues then or after, so overrevving a tad won't hurt them. Does it smoke worse on long turns like highway onramps? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 (edited) Biggest issue I've encountered in putting an EA81 in where an EA82 was is the Powersteering. I've modded the pump bracket and drive pulley to work on the EA81. Just haven't devised a good belt tensioning system yet. Tried a few methods, and they did work. Just wasn't "Happy" with them, so on to another one. Still a work-in-progress there.. Just looking for a cheap-easy method that can be done with "on-hand" Subaru parts. As far as putting the EA82 flywheel on an EA81 and the difference in timing marks. You need to add 6* to what you're seeing. In other words; TDC #1 cylinder on the EA81 engine will read as 6*BTDC on the EA82 flywheel. Carbed motor timing will need to be set at 14*, SPFI engines will need to be set at 26*. edit: And for the bottom radiator hose, EA81 engine to EA82 radiator, I bought a Flex-hose of appropriate end sizes. Works.... Edited February 23, 2012 by TomRhere more info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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