Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

Can you determine pulley condition by spinning?


Recommended Posts

1997 Legacy auto (Legato) 2.2 180,000 miles.

 

I was going to replace both balljoints, timing belt pulley and water pump before I gave it to my neice, but after replacing the right balljoint and finding out it was still tight and didn't need replacing after all, and removing the timing belt and finding that the pulleys still ran well (not free spinning) and the water pump was cleaner than the rest indicating it had been replaced already, I'm thinking of buttoning it up and sending it on. I did the timing belt when I bought it at 135k, just to be safe, and I'm thinking it's good for a couple years more.

 

Can you honestly tell condition of pulleys by spinning?

 

How about waterpump? Is it possible to identify an OEM for this car? I'd rather not remove it if it's sealed.

 

Car is called the "Legato" for a reason. Never too quick, but good gas mileage (25) at 70 all day. When it got there. ;)

 

Rusty anyhow.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1997 Legacy auto (Legato) 2.2 180,000 miles.

 

I was going to replace both balljoints, timing belt pulley and water pump before I gave it to my neice, but after replacing the right balljoint and finding out it was still tight and didn't need replacing after all, and removing the timing belt and finding that the pulleys still ran well (not free spinning) and the water pump was cleaner than the rest indicating it had been replaced already, I'm thinking of buttoning it up and sending it on. I did the timing belt when I bought it at 135k, just to be safe, and I'm thinking it's good for a couple years more.

 

Can you honestly tell condition of pulleys by spinning?

 

How about waterpump? Is it possible to identify an OEM for this car? I'd rather not remove it if it's sealed.

 

Car is called the "Legato" for a reason. Never too quick, but good gas mileage (25) at 70 all day. When it got there. ;)

 

Rusty anyhow.

 

If they are original to the car , replace them. They don't just instantly fail, they wear over time( then fail). I have repacked sealed bearings many times( usually they fail from lack of grease), but I would not take a chance on such a critical item/ area.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

in my opinion,

 

you can tell when they are bad, they are rough and noisey. but unless you can see into the future you cannot tell if they will last 60k miles until the next timing belt change, unless you replace them.

 

the only way to be sure is to replace them. short of that you better be willing to replace valves and head gaskets if you don't and they fail.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wouldn't want my neice stranded for a couple hundred bucks.

 

Get a kit (I use theimportexperts) and do the seals, idlers, waterpump, accessory belts, etc and be done with it.

 

It's still an old car, but you'll have done all that you can and it didn't cost much.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You do all that work to skimp?

 

Never replace a timing belt and skip everything else. it WILL fail, not if at some time between belt changes. Don't forget all the seals.

 

Why not change the front end parts. If she is keeping the car for a while she will need to replace them at some time, why not just do it and she will never have to? 180,000 they may feel tight now, but no one can tell in another 10K.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks all. I went ahead and did everything. Used a kit from Miz******* off ebay. I had hesitated because I have had tensioners (new style) and new water pumps fail.

 

BUT ONE WEIRD THING: the new-out-of-the-box tensioner pulley bushing was too short. It should protrude just barely above the face of the eccentric core, to allow the tensioner to push it freely into position. When I bolted the new one in it was locked in place and would not shift back and forth at all. I used the old bushing and bolt. I didn't like the bolt that came with it either; full thread.

 

The part is a "Kabuki QB-26030 60219 Tensioner Bearing".

Beware.

 

(NOTE: The vendor gave me a generous partial refund on the defective part after I told them about it. Highly recommended)

Edited by uniberp
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Several folks here have has issues with Mizo kits.

 

Only troubles I've ever had with theimportexterts weren't with the kits and easily remedied and excellent to work with.

 

For instance one time I needed VC gaskets and they sent for SOHC and I needed DOHC - that kinda stuff.

 

Just sayin for future folks who may read this.

 

So being happy with theimportexperts I"ve never needed to try anyone else but members seem to have more issues with Mizu.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i change the water pump timimg belt and coged idler all as a set evry time i do anything with timing belt the coged idler do'es real time and sees way more miles than any others and fails evry day have had two engines just thiss week bent 16 valves because of this idler no ej moter is amune to thiss even if you just change it and nothing else have had them failed under 100000kms had a 07 with 78000kms bad coged idler this part is an engine killer the other pullys are smooth so the belt could slip across if seized and whould give warning the coged one seizes and rips the teeth of the belt

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...