superpoo93 Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 (edited) I have read post after post, and have not found what I'm looking for. Changed the rear bearing on my 93 Loyale 4WD wagon (drum brakes). Had shop remove/install bearings. I only installed rear spindle, used a piece of pipe to keep outer bearing from moving and gently tappped with rubber mallot, till it felt solid. mounted everything back, grabbed tire top and bottom, still have play. Help:banghead: Edited February 23, 2012 by superpoo93 needed to enter more info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytrus Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 How many foot pounds of torque did you tighten the bearing to.....? you mention that you only put the spindle in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 axle nut go's very tight 200+ ft lbs make shure the berring retainer nut is tight the big round one in back with 4 dogs on it look at the splines on stub and drum and cone washer check all that stuff for where if the cone washer is worn down the nut will bottom before drum titens up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superpoo93 Posted February 24, 2012 Author Share Posted February 24, 2012 axle nut go's very tight 200+ ft lbs make shure the berring retainer nut is tight the big round one in back with 4 dogs on it look at the splines on stub and drum and cone washer check all that stuff for where if the cone washer is worn down the nut will bottom before drum titens up I did not even think of the cone washer...duh. Torqued to 150lbs+. originally. Thanks for giving your advise, I let you know what I found in a couple days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 The way I tighten the axle nut is stand on the end of my 2' breaker bar. So that's my weight x2. Then jump on it till I can get the pin through. Rear bearings have been fine for three years. Because there's the spacer in there, you can't over tighten the bearing. The spacer sets the pre-load. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 Did you check the splines on the inside of the hub? Did you check the mating face of the hub where it rides against the inner race? Did you get the lockring on the back secured all the way? If not the outer race can walk in the knuckle. It's also possible that the bearing was pressed improperly. If all the other stuff checks out.....take it back to them....ask if they pressed the outer race seperately.....or if they just slammed the whole thing in. If they pressed the whole bearing as one piece they could have damaged it. There is a spacer between the bearing races, so if they get damaged....no amount of tightening will fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 Because there's the spacer in there, you can't over tighten the bearing. The spacer sets the pre-load. Actually you can. If you are trying to overtightem it to take slack from a damaged bearing, all you will end up doing is smashing the hub face against the bearing race til it deforms and creates a ridge. Once this is done....the hub is trashed. If you install it with new bearings, take those bearings out in short order. 150 ftlbs. is plenty. If the bearings won't get tight.....something else is wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 150 ftlbs. is plenty. If the bearings won't get tight.....something else is wrong. Exactly. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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