EJ22 Heads only or full rebuild

[glkiller2]

So just for SNG I'm gonna go try an oil change.

I still would like a new engine.

 

I bought some LUCAS synthetic additive that I will add to Mobile 1 full synthetic 5-30

 

Probably should have put this at start of thread.

About 2 years ago the last time the ticking was lasting longer without going away I was a Castrol GTX 10-40 user non synthetic.

 

I switched to Mobile 1 and the ticking was instantly better and even disappeared for awhile. Then it gradually came back during startup.

On my last oil change at startup it wasn't ticking.

I took a trip to town 30 miles and when I stopped I noticed it.

It has now persistently ticked for about 6 weeks.

 

I'll go do that change and let u guys know what happens.

 

BTW I realize I may not be the smartest guy on what oils to use so be gentle:)

 

I THINK what's going on is exactly what you guys said I have a bad lifter (dang o-rings) maybe getting aerated oil (dang o-rings) Maybe the LUCAS can pump it up.

Edited March 3, 2012 by glkiller2

[Ricearu]

I find that using 15w-40, my high mile engines run quieter and smoother. If I get a ticky lifter, I dump in a pint of Marvel Mystery Oil and that hasn't failed me yet. My wife's car has a junk yard 160k mile single port ej22 in it and shortly after installing it, a lifter went APE $H!T. I thought it threw a rod bearing until I listened around and found it was coming from the passenger side valve cover. dumped in a QUART of marvel mystery oil and drove it 100 miles and it was all better

[glkiller2]

Same so far, we'll see if a drive helps on Monday.

[GeneralDisorder]

So I followed the link you gave, is that block only? Would need my Heads?

I'm really not too worried about using or selling the heads.

I would rather get a whole new engine and save the current one for sensors and other spare parts.

 

That's a whole engine. You just pop over to Albany, pick it up, and drop it in your car. Obviously you will want to do the timing belt, water pump, idlers, seals, plugs, wires, etc. But that's the basic idea. Very simple.

 

GD

[Whitedog]

Killer, if you would like a hand, drop me a line. $50 in fuel to Albany and back in my Jetta (unless you want to be seen in a New Beetle with another guy). I'm no expert on Subie engines, but I know my way around an engine and I have a few tools and such.

[glkiller2]

so Oil change did nothing to the noise, as expected.

I'll let u guys know what goes on with motor.

[Fairtax4me]

I have a flaky lifter on my 96 that comes and goes. Generally shows up about 2500 miles on oil. Has taken over 100 miles to go away after a change before. Usually it's within a a day of driving after the change.

What Lucas additive did you use? Oil stabilizer?

Marvels Mystery Oil works better to clean up noisy lifters.

 

Start poking around with a screwdriver or stethoscope and see if you can figure out which side the noise is coming from.

Pull the valve cover off of that side, spin the engine so the rockers are unloaded. Line up the crankshaft at 90 degrees clockwise past TDC to unload one side, rotate another 360 degrees to unload the other side. "Unloaded" means the cam is not compressing any of the valve springs on that side.

Check each for play. Press firmly on the ends of the rockers to check for squishy lifters. The lifters sit directly on the valve stems. You can use a prybar against the frame to help apply pressure on the lifters. If any compress before moving the valve, the lifter is either no good or is not getting proper oil pressure.

The oil feed holes in the rocker assembly are tiny and easily clog. That's another possibility, and disassembling the rocker assembly and blowing out the feed holes with compressed air can clear the obstruction which will let proper oil pressure reach the lifters.

[glkiller2]

Yeah Fair, I think I'll try that too. I won't have time till spring break but that sounds good. If the lifters do act normal though I have to get to that oil pump.

But I'm still gonna look for an engine.

 

If nothing else I'll get my spare engine all set and drive this one till it dies. THX!

[glkiller2]

So after MUCH deliberation, here's the plan. Like earlier stated I prob have an HLA Problem. I'm going to pull the rocker assemblies from both sides and check all lifters and replace o rings (dang orings).

Using this procedure as a guide : http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=76989

Also checking for proper relief valve operation and unclogged ports in rocker assembly.

From what I gather if that doesn't work I need to pull the oil pump and install a new oring there. (the one my parts guy said doesn't show up in database.)

This is where the choice comes in.

If I have to do the oil pump I'm going to rebuild the hole engine.

If it does work I'm going to go till something else makes me want to rebuild, hopefully without getting stuck on the roadside.

I can't make sense out of putting on a new T-Belt, water pump, pulleys etc. without just goin all the way and making an engine that will last me another 300000 (if I do a good job:)

Not only that but what if my switch to synthetic oil loosened a chunk of crud in there that's blocking an oil passage in the block that feeds the valvetrain? Then the HLA and oil pump fix AND doing tbelt pumps etc. while I'm in there will have no effect and I would be MAD AS ^$%^&$%!

 

I came to this after firing up my old 83 gl the other day and rallying it around the yard, good stuff, it runs great once warm. (didn't really want to go back to it after my love affair with my EJ22 but I decided to swallow my pride a little and stop whining and throwing around more money) So using that I can afford to park the leggy until completely rebuilt.

 

I wanted to get a spare engine but I'm kinda sick of the pile of parts I have for my old GL and I saw myself falling into a motor collecting pattern:)

 

Will try to dig up my camera and take picks of HLA work for the forum in a new thread dedicated to that topic.

 

Thanks for all the advice guys!

[johnceggleston]

i'm glad you have a plan you can live with but i see a flaw in your thinking. of course i don't know ALL of what went in to your decision.

 

I can't make sense out of putting on a new T-Belt, water pump, pulleys etc. without just goin all the way and making an engine that will last me another 300000 (if I do a good job

timing belts are done every 60k on these engines. even if you do a full rebuild, which i think isn't needed at the moment but each to his own, you will still be doing a timing belt in 60k miles. and a timing belt kit id only $125 w/ the water pump. front oil seals are another $30 at the dealer.

 

i have never done an EA timing belt but i hear that the EJs are easier. check, clean, prime the HLAs and see what happens, but if you have to address the oil pump just do the timing belt then. it will buy you 60k miles. or at least a few until something worse happens.

 

for less then $200, you can install all new timing belt, idlers, water pump, front oil seals, and a used oil pump. if the car only takes you 2000 miles that 10 cents a mile. my guess is it will go that far and more. if it goes 20k miles that is 1 cent a mile. this is more likely.

 

hth

[GeneralDisorder]

EJ22 rebuilding is simply not viable economically. Buy a used one with 120k on it for $500, do a timing belt and WP and be done with it.

 

They are not expensive enough used to consider rebuilding. EJ25's..... maybe. Depends on the condition.

 

EJ22 rebuild (anything involving the bottom end) is silly and a waste of money.

 

GD

[Whitedog]

Would EJ25 heads go on this engine?

[GeneralDisorder]

Would EJ25 heads go on this engine?

 

Unlikely. The chamber size would probably be too large to insure proper sealing of the fire ring from the smaller cylinder diameter.

 

You could likely use EJ20T heads though if you wanted more flow.

 

Still a waste of time though.

 

GD

[glkiller2]

Cheapest SHORT block I could find locally $750.

Not all of us live in a big city.

 

I'm not driving over 100 miles to go look at a uncovered, rusted, full of water block for $500 (worst case) turn around because I don't like it, and look for another.

 

Rather buy a different car...

[Whitedog]

Contact Barrett at All Wheels Driven. He may be able to help you. If you need his number, let me know.

[glkiller2]

Contact Barrett at All Wheels Driven. He may be able to help you. If you need his number, let me know.

 

here's what he said:

 

I can get you a low mileage JDM 2.0 Engine w/ less than 40k on it for +-$800 shipped. That would come with a 6 mo/6k warranty on the engine. It is a direct drop in into your year legacy, with nearly the same power, better mpg, and the same reliability the 2.2 has. I can find used US engines too, but typically they have way in excess of 150k miles and are usually questionable. I may be able to find a JDM 2.2, but they are getting very hard to come by..

 

If ordered today or tomorrow, we'd see it by the end of the week.

 

 

Doesn't sound like a bad deal for sticking a middle man with the chore, but I like my 2.2. I'll keep lookin.

[ccrinc]

No offense to this guy, but any JDM engine that's a "direct drop in" would be a first!

[Whitedog]

I'm sure it would bolt up. Beyond that, what problems would be expected?