1992 Legacy Station - where's the fuel pump?

[stickedy]

Hello!

 

I have to replace the fuel pump on my 1992 Legacy Station. Am I right that I have to take out the back seat and then there is a service "hole" on the left side where I can disassembe the whole unit from the fuel tank? I only have a service manual for 1995 version, so I'm not sure about it...

 

How long do you think this will take? 30 Minutes?

 

Thanks!

[bheinen74]

leave the seats in.

flip the bottom cushion forward, then fold the seat backs down

then fold the carpet in the back toward and over the folded seats.

the fuel pump cover is the oval one on the passenger side (usa passenger side right) the side f the car with fuel filler just behind the seat hinge in the cargo area

remoevr four screws and lift up the oval cover plate.

spray the 7-8 nuts with pb blaster let soak, cause the studs will snap no matter what.

You will likely only save 3 or 4 studs from snapping off, that will be okay for reassembly, but not ideal try to not snap them off. think they are 8 or 10mm nut. spray with rust penantrant. soak with rust penantrant

remove 3 fuel lines after loosening the clamps

unplug the wire connector, tuck under and to the side.

pull up and out the pump, sender unit assembly, it needs to be twisted and maneuverd up and out, fuel sock will need to be folded some.

Edited March 1, 2012 by bheinen74

[bheinen74]

l.

[Rooster2]

Best to pull the fuel pump, when the tank is nearly dry, if that is possible.

[heartless]

leave the seats in.

flip the bottom cushion forward, then fold the seat backs down

then fold the carpet in the back toward and over the folded seats.

um, no - there are plastic strips with screws in them at the base of the seat backs, remove those, and the carpet will seperate into two sections, one for the seat back, and one for the cargo area.

the fuel pump cover is the oval one on the passenger side (usa passenger side right) the side of the car with fuel filler just behind the seat hinge in the cargo area

remove four screws and lift up the oval cover plate.

spray the 7-8 nuts with pb blaster let soak, cause the studs will snap no matter what.

You will likely only save 3 or 4 studs from snapping off, that will be okay for reassembly, but not ideal try to not snap them off. think they are 8 or 10mm nut. spray with rust penantrant. soak with rust penantrant

only if you dont work slowly and carefully - i have removed all of them without breaking any. they are a 10mm.

remove 3 fuel lines after loosening the clamps

unplug the wire connector, tuck under and to the side.

pull up and out the pump, sender unit assembly, it needs to be twisted and maneuverd up and out, fuel sock will need to be folded some.

 

pb blaster is a rust penetrating oil available here in the US, not sure about in Europe - use what you have available. using a small socket set, work slowly and very carefully on those nuts, if you feel ANY resistance, stop and soak them again, might even tighten them just a tad so the penetrating oil can get down in better. use a small wire brush to help break up and remove rust scale, makes it a little bit easier to get those nuts off.

 

if your car is an AWD version, there is a secondary pump on the left side under a round cover - the main pump is under the oval cover however.

 

and yes, the emptier the tank is, the better - but it can be done with a full tank - just be prepared to have some fuel seepage from the lines when you remove them.

[bheinen74]

^

never use a wire brush around fuel.

hello that is rule number one. Wire brush can cause spark which can burn up .

there is no secondary pump, that is the other sending unit on the left side.

[danbennett2u]

I had no problems with any of the nuts however I live in rust free colorado. The guage sending unit and pump were both together on a unit on the right side on my 92 leg wagon.

[Red92]

work slowly and very carefully on those nuts, if you feel ANY resistance, stop and soak them again, might even tighten them just a tad so the penetrating oil can get down in better.

 

I've had great luck with this technique in general, on any rusted fastener.

 

Any time something is rusted, the tendancy is to just muscle through it and get it out, which is how you break bolts/studs or twist out captive nuts. If you can get it to move at all, then just back it out until you hit resistance, then go the other direction and tighten it up a few turns. If you keep repeating this, it works great to clear the rust and crud off the threads, and importantly - shed the cleared crud, instead of letting it bind up the nut as you get further along.

[stickedy]

Thank you all very much for the informations! It was a simple job doing the replacement yesterday - and the car runs fine again Doesn't take much longer than 30 minutes...

 

I had no problems removing those nuts of the fuel pump assembly / tank after soaking them with some kind of "high capacity rust dissolver" I bought here in a German DIY market a while ago. It produces some kind of silver colored film where it was sprayed and it works great Apropos, those nuts where 8 mm!

Edited March 4, 2012 by stickedy

[Olnick]

Good job, stickedy. And thanks for letting us know how it went.

 

Now--get out there and enjoy those beautiful Bavarian roads!