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Retro GL-10 TURBO build


Nico
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Thanks mate.  Yeah I know the XT6 is the Vortex, we only got the XT4 version.  Any XT6's in Oz are known as a grey import or a personal import - not factory delivered here.

 

Does the inlet and outlet port angles become an issue with fitment or are they not like the stock L series lower radiator angle?  I'm hoping they're both only gently angled up at the most like what I can see in your pic above of the upper inlet pipe.  And it turns out there's one in stock in Oz - surprising what you can find if you ask!

 

Last question - have you fitted this radiator yet?  Keen to know what sort of clearances you have between the engine and the radiator you have ;)

 

That's insane building two engines!  Clearly you're passionate about this build - or you're keeping "Bloody Murphy" and his law away!  With that spare engine built on the shelf waiting to go you'll not have an issue with the one you're running!

 

Regards

 

Bennie

 

 

 

I haven't tried to install it yet because its winter in Canada.. And Boy O Boy is it winter up here this year lol.... in the summer ill be installing the rad, i'm just comparing it to the GL rad for now..

 

but the inlet port has a slight angle very small not like the GL point up to the hood, ill take a picture of it flat on the floor.... but in the GL and XT6 the rads sit on a angle pointing back which will straighten out in the end..

 

 

I don't see any reason why it wont fit with the same Rad Fans.. my Fans are mounted on the steal bracket and don't sit close to the fins on the rad... but with a double core like this one they will sit perfect maybe 2mm away from the fins.

 

 

the rad is the same size as the GL just double core... the end tanks are the same size with out the large ports..

 

 

 

the spare motor I'm making is so I can have the car for sure in the summer if something goes wrong like last summer I wasted..

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

here is my water pump set up, this pump is for a non turbo Subaru "1990 Subaru Legacy 2.2L NA". There is a couple things special to this water pump which works perfect in my build. The black pipe is coolant heater core pipe single, and the hose adapter is H6 ez30
 
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little back ground on the design
 
 
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The EJ257 and EJ255 engines are using a low cost stamped impeller water pump that is inferior to this JDM spec closed back cast impeller water pump. The stamped impeller pump is less efficient and more susceptable to cavitation. We suggest installing a closed-impeller pump on any performance or motorsport Subaru engine build
 
 
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so besides the cast impeller, the inlet port is huge which should help a bit more with coolant flow. on a turbo water pump there is 3 nipple ports... 1 oil cooler... 2 swirl pot... 3 heater core...   now because I'm not using a swirl pot and have a rad cap on the rad I can delete that nipple port & the pipe all together. 
 
also my oil cooler has no coolant going into it any more so that port can be deleted also, because of the use of the JDM spec-C S204 adapter.
 
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  • 1 month later...

i love that car! man i wish i had some money to throw around hahaha :)

 

thank you

 

 

It feels like my GL-10 is fast in fwd with a stock ej20g, I can't imagine how fast yours feels with proper suspension to handle it, ha. Looks fantastic!!

 

you must smoke the tires right up in 3rd gear with that no ?... your car has to be super light with out all the awd stuff, my gl-10 started life in fwd it was quick for a old car.

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wow, just wow. i just read your build today. you have built one of the most beautiful sedans i have ever seen.

 

next time you come down to the DC area, you gotta hit me up, i am in maryland, about 50 miles from DC. i would love to see this car in person. if i ever get my house finished, id love to have you come out and hang out if you have time. i am doing a wrx conversion on my brat. 02 wrx engine and drive with various years of suspension, 2002-2012 or so. i would love to be able to compair notes, so to speak.

 

keep up the awesome work, i cant wait to see the progress you make when it warms up again.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I stumble across this build on every forum i go on it seems like haha

 

lol ya i should have limited the fourms but to late now I guess people like to see it and what i'm doing on it now 

 

 

 

wow, just wow. i just read your build today. you have built one of the most beautiful sedans i have ever seen.

 

next time you come down to the DC area, you gotta hit me up, i am in maryland, about 50 miles from DC. i would love to see this car in person. if i ever get my house finished, id love to have you come out and hang out if you have time. i am doing a wrx conversion on my brat. 02 wrx engine and drive with various years of suspension, 2002-2012 or so. i would love to be able to compair notes, so to speak.

 

keep up the awesome work, i cant wait to see the progress you make when it warms up again.

 

 

thank you !!  If I come down again ill send you a pm, maybe in a couple months i have to come back down for some visiting again.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

got lots of parts coming in for my toy very excited to fix the little problems and add some new updated bits to make this car more fun a race track this year.
 
 
 
I found a nice GL-10 Turbo cross member from the local scrap yards had it sand blasted and powder coated black for that long lasting effect. also did the USMB washer weld on trick to re locate the control arms a bit further out so I wont have rubbing binding problems any more with the XT6 control arms.
 
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here you can see the old hole with new hole
 
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my spare Bosch 044 came in (might use this for my other build going on will see) and my arp head studs 625+ for the spare motor, still waiting for the new subaru crankshaft to come in from subaru japan to build the block which wont be much longer.
 
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So I been collecting parts for my car now do to everything being Super RARE or no longer available (NLA) from Subaru any more.

 

just in case I bend something or I need to replace something, some of the stuff is still getting sand blasted and powder coated.

 

 

 

 

front control arms bushings XT6 only white line # W51458. you must melt out the XT6 bushing and re use the BUSHING shell (not the bolt shell in the center) for this to work.

 

top corner in Pic is bushing and shell

 

 

 

 

 

there rear mustache bar on the older Subaru's also have a bushing that can be replaced with a white line part number # W91379. this part fits on all new Subaru's T bar holding the diff up. to make this bushing work you must burn out your old metal shell that the bolt goes into, then drill out the white line bushing to the same size as the bolt shell.

 

pic bushings is in center XT6 control arms you can see them.

 

 

 

 

 

there will be more bushing's coming to firm up the ride on my car, I need to measure them still and cross fit from a newer Subaru once all stuff comes in.

 

 

 

 

 

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Edited by Nico
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Thanks for those Whiteline part #'s. I need a new one for the mustache bar.

 

no worries there will be more once I figure out the rest of the sizes to mix and match 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

today my Nolathane bushings came in for my Subaru XT6 control arms, for people that never heard of Nolathane, there the owner of Whiteline which is more popular in north america then in Australia but the boys down under know all this all ready lol.
 
 
Now I'm waiting for my other bushings from SuperPRO which should cover the rest of my underside bushings and give me that firm more responsive ride around the race track this year.
 
 
Nolathane # 46200
direct swap made with the shell
 
 
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here is the drain back for the dip stick for the Mann Hummel Provent 200 set up I have made... this is for a friend of mine which has a built Subaru also, same design as my original one I made for my Leone.

 

ill also be making a easy adapter for the inlet on the Provent 200, so its easy to connect the block vent and valve covers all in one tube with out making back pressure free flowing for better movement of air.

 

used a stand grinder then cleaned up with a file and deburring tool.

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ill weld this up and paint it so it stays nice and clean rust free.

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when building a subaru motor fuji bond or fixing the brakes RX2 grease and servicing the cv axles and cv boots you got the proper grease from subaru ! 

 

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Edited by Nico
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well I finished the welding the dip sticks for the return line for the Provent 200. I also made a adapter piece because I have had a couple say the pipes inlet are to big and hose will not fit this and that...

 

the pipe I made is for the block vent and both valve covers, came out ok should do the trick and not block as much air as T ing the tubes up.. more air you can move the better.

 

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all the under side of a GL / XT / XT6 / Loyale sand blasted and powder coated to last a long time... Turbo cross member, XT6 arms front rear, XT6 20mm sway bar, XT6 5mt or 6mt cross member. I'm just missing the rear cross member which I need to find a spare to work with.

 

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Whiteline & Nolathane bushings in place now got to do new wheel bearings and there done.

 

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looking good so far, cant wait to see them bolted to the car.

  

 

It's all most time to take the car out of storage. I just need a rear cross member to play with so I can figure out what bushings sizes are so I can figure out which ones to order.

 

 

 

 

My question is where did you get the 4WD TURBO stickers?

 

I ordered them from Subaru, I also got the 4WD TURBO RX one coming in also.

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with the help of Franz @ DieboldAutosport he pointed me in the direction of Karim @ Lachute Performance for this Aim Fuel level adapter for a Subaru.

 

the Aim dash needed a converter to give it proper signal on a factory fuel sending unit. The sending unit is for the OEM subaru Analog dash in the 1986 ~ 1994 Subaru GL or Loyale, my Oem unit was a digital dash so it need to be changed to the different Ohm unit.

 

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It's all most time to take the car out of storage. I just need a rear cross member to play with so I can figure out what bushings sizes are so I can figure out which ones to order.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I ordered them from Subaru, I also got the 4WD TURBO RX one coming in also.

 

PFT, you must have a good dealership near you!  I tried to order a key set for my 02' Impreza and they wouldn't lift a finger in Tampa.  They wanted a vin and I said, "I could give it to you, but it's an EDM 1.6L Impreza...  and I doubt your system would recoginize it.."  and no, it didn't....   And they wouldn't just order me a new key set!  It's not like I was ordering a new vin tag set haha

 

Definitely keep the posts coming

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Not sure if it would be a possibility or not, but the lady in the parts department at Anapoilis Subaru in Maryland is amazing. not sure if they will ship parts over seas, but it couldnt hurt to ask.  

 

 

Edit: are you in florida or Ireland? lol

 

PFT, you must have a good dealership near you!  I tried to order a key set for my 02' Impreza and they wouldn't lift a finger in Tampa.  They wanted a vin and I said, "I could give it to you, but it's an EDM 1.6L Impreza...  and I doubt your system would recoginize it.."  and no, it didn't....   And they wouldn't just order me a new key set!  It's not like I was ordering a new vin tag set haha

 

Definitely keep the posts coming

Edited by subyrally
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so I just got most of the SuperPro bushings in and new bolts nuts washers every where from Subaru oem :D 

 

 

 

80's Subaru radius rod SuperPro # SPF2534K for 18mm bar, check your bar width if you decide to get these. this are made so much better then the whiteline ones that don't even fit in the socket.

 

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80's Subaru 4WD Differential Pinion Mount Bushing, press bushing out melt out middle add SuperPro # SPF3005K with lots of grease and your done... last year I used a newer whiteline bushing from a impreza this year ill use the proper one. New oem subaru bolts and nuts are on back order still.

 

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88 - 91 Subaru XT6 rear hubs 20MM sway bar, this was a tricky one had to cross reference Nolathane XT6/Vortex number to these proper bushings from SuperPro # SPF0361-20. Oem brackets bolts and nuts from Subaru

 

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some people didn't get to see my Before & After pics, I had to get the ball rolling so I just got another spare set of XT6 5x100 rear set up in and this is what they look like from the wrecker's

 

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STi 6mt Gear-linkage, Support Bar, Front Bush SuperPro # SPF2462K

 

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80s Subaru Rear suspension mounts oem Subaru with SuperPro # SPF2755SK for the shock absorber's to give less movement in the control arm. you only need 4, I'm working on my next project car.

 

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80's Subaru oem rear cross member bushing, this one is going to be tricky to upgrade. ill have to come up with something even cut the bushing mount out and weld up something to a newer style. I have a couple idea's in my head, but ill need to think of a good way to stiff this up. one idea is getting it made solid out of aluminium... there is also one more bushing in the rear cross member, it hasn't come in yet once I get that one to play with ill know where to start.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
finally found one of these (really found 2 one for the spare build I got in the works). Manual steering rack OEM Subaru VGR ( variable gear ratio ) which means, less weight, less heat, less stress on the motor.

 

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VGR teeth change

 

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right from Japan antic vintage Subaru grill badges for my Leone and the keys also. I'd Like to thank Billy @JPNHunt for getting me this stuff !! great guy to deal with if anyone is wondering !! 

 

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I didn't think they would fit, lots of late night number crunching worked.... 225/45/16 DUNLOP DIREZZA ZⅡ + 16x8 et45 Braid custom made rally wheels just for the perfect fit.

 

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