1-3-2-4 Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 I have an idea on how it's done but one thing I do have a question about.. my guess this car was from a salt state but it has some light rust on the inner part of the piston face that hits the pad the inside should be fine right? What does one do to clean out the inside? I'm thinking about doing a repair kit the pistons are failing to retract so they keep full force on the pads in which wears them down a decent amount. before anyone asks yes I checked the sliding pins and they are fine the bracket it's self moves fine it's just the pistons don't retract right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 The last time I faced this same situation, I bought a rebuild from Advance Auto Parts, that has worked fine. I just didn't have the time, or the faith in my repair work to rebuild the old one myself. Yes, you could try some light sand papering to remove the rust, and install new seals, but do you really trust the quality of the repair? I think installing a rebuild is the best way to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 if i'm hearing this right - yes make sure the inner sliding surfaces are good and you'll be fine. the face that touches the pads are always rusted here, just ignore that. clean it up a bit and good to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uniberp Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 The sliding surfaces, both piston and bore, have to be PERFECT, no pits, rust, or even bright shiny marks. They will catch on the littlest thing. Best to use new/rebuilt calipers, IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted March 2, 2012 Author Share Posted March 2, 2012 ended up getting the caliper repair kit.. Since I'm going to be doing this I might as well blast them and powder coat them. I know I have some shots of the calipers I took before but I can't find them at the moment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rverdoold Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 (edited) basic strategy: Tools: basic jack and wrenches Brake oil brake cleaner Copper grease high temp ceramic grease Brake refurbish kit (2x) I always do both sides Brake cylinder hone + slow drill some sandpaper Remove wheel and check if the bleed nipple can be opened (easiest when still on car), just open and close it. Undo lower slide pin bolt and remove brake pads. Place a bowl/bucket under the caliper and have a friend slow pump the brake pedal so the piston moves out. (you will have to remove the brake fluid anyway) When the piston is loose in the rubber socket keep the pedal to the floor with a crowbar or a stick using the chair. This will prevent more oil running out. Undo the banjo bolt and remove the brake line from the calliper. Undo the top slidepin bolt and remove the calliper from the car. Remove the slidepin dustcaps and slide pins, clean the inside of the holes with a stickbrush (plastic). Remove the piston and the dustcap rubber, and checker piston and calliper for rust on the sliding parts. Clean with brake cleaner. Use a brakecylinder hone to rehone (remove rust) the cylinder by having the hone on a low speed drill and making up and down movements (honing). Clean cylinder with brake cleaner and put a bit of brake oil on the internals and feel if the surface is smooth. Put the piston in a vice and clean with brake cleaner. Us a long rectangular piece of fine sandpaper to remove rust. Put the sandpaper around the piston so you do a uniform sanding of the surface. Clean with brake cleaner and lubricate with brake oil. Lubricate the inside of the NEW rubber piston seal rubber and place it onto the calliper first. Now push the piston back in. You can use some bend paperclips to stretch the opening of the rubber seal. Push the piston back in and allign the seal properly. Remove the excess of brake oil on the outside. Now lubricate the cleaned slide pins with high temp (ceramic) grease and push them in the holes. Move them up and down a bit, the should slide easily. Put the dust caps/seals over them. Mount calliper back on the car by the top slide in and open the bleed nipple and connect the banjo bolt. Put back the brake pads (grind the flat surface over some smooth street tiles/asfalt to remove the glazing), and connect the lower slide pin bolt. Open the reservoir and fill with new brake fluid. Have a friend help with bleeding brake system and make sure your reservoir never runs out of fluid!! Do the other side and get a beer!! This is how I did it last time. Enjoy. edit: If you can not open the bleed nipple or it brakes off get a refurbished or scrapyard caliper Edited March 2, 2012 by rverdoold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted March 3, 2012 Author Share Posted March 3, 2012 One thing is what is the point of the brake hone if the piston slides on the large O-ring? My seals came in today So I'm debating if I want to do it now before it starts raining but then again I've worked in the rain putting the engine back in without a cover over the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rverdoold Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 One thing is what is the point of the brake hone if the piston slides on the large O-ring? My seals came in today So I'm debating if I want to do it now before it starts raining but then again I've worked in the rain putting the engine back in without a cover over the car. Indeed it slides on the ring. But I had oxidation/rust in the cylinder so much it could contact the piston. If they look spotless then you don't have to hone them and just replace the rubber rings. My cylinder on the other hand had some nice rust on there. So much that if I had locked my wheels it would not even release the brake of 1 wheel. And that only because of rust. Sanding the piston did magic trick. Just keep in mind brake fluid is extremely hygroscopic. Working in low humidity is much better than high. However you are replacing big part of the fluid while bleeding the system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ocei77 Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 (edited) Oops, my error. O. Edited March 3, 2012 by ocei77 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smiffy6four Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 Conventional brake fluid is hygroscopic(attracts water from the atmosphere); I use synthetic fluid when doing a complete brake job. All hydralic parts last waaaay longer that way, since synthetic doen't attract water and lubricates better. Just make sure to flush brake lines of old style fluid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted March 4, 2012 Author Share Posted March 4, 2012 I'm starved so I'm going to make this short (been working on it since 5 PM) I had to go get a reman caliper long story short I got one piston to pop out but the other one (stuck) I went all the way up to 125 PSI and it still would not pop out.. had a bunch of surface rust on it. Part of what took so long is I went to powder coat the pad bracket and later I will get around to doing the caliper as well. Also that rock auto caliper repair kit WTF.. it said outback 56 mm bore.. that O-ring was way too big.. like 5-6 mm bigger in diameter then the piston it's self.. and just to think I ordered 4 of them :-/ pictures when I get back.. Wendy's to the rescue! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted March 4, 2012 Author Share Posted March 4, 2012 Stuck piston Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 ended up getting the caliper repair kit.. Since I'm going to be doing this I might as well blast them and powder coat them. I know I have some shots of the calipers I took before but I can't find them at the moment. Where did you get the kit from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted March 4, 2012 Author Share Posted March 4, 2012 The caliper repair kit? Rock auto.. It was this one.. DORMAN Part # D351458 I just had a look and every one of them says Outback but only for like '00 to '02 But says Legacy from '90 to '02 As soon as I pulled it out of the box I was like this ring is huge.. I don't think it's worth my hassle to return them.. Anyone know what repair kit does fit a 97 OBW? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rverdoold Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 That stucks!! (proper spelling). A single piston would be easier in this to open. When on is stuck of the dual piston it is really hard. When you got the reman you had to give the core unit (your broken one) as exchange? Powder coating, looks nice. How well does it reduce rust? How hot you have to bake it on? Synthetic brake fluid, any specific brand names? Dit our subies needed DOT 4 or 5.1? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted March 4, 2012 Author Share Posted March 4, 2012 That stucks!! (proper spelling).A single piston would be easier in this to open. When on is stuck of the dual piston it is really hard. When you got the reman you had to give the core unit (your broken one) as exchange? Powder coating, looks nice. How well does it reduce rust? How hot you have to bake it on? Synthetic brake fluid, any specific brand names? Dit our subies needed DOT 4 or 5.1? I blocked the free piston with a half broken brick so when I gave it air it only moved about 1 mm outward. I heard the grease gun is another way to remove it but I don't own one of those lol. The dual piston feels better as far as how it feels when it slows to a stop. And yes I gave the the one as a core with the piston still stuck out.. it's going to be SEP. Also using DOT 3 right now I'm going to fully upgrade the brakes next week Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smiffy6four Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 I blocked the free piston with a half broken brick so when I gave it air it only moved about 1 mm outward. I heard the grease gun is another way to remove it but I don't own one of those lol. The dual piston feels better as far as how it feels when it slows to a stop. And yes I gave the the one as a core with the piston still stuck out.. it's going to be SEP. Also using DOT 3 right now I'm going to fully upgrade the brakes next week The stuck piston is easier to remove when it's stil on the car. Block the one that moves and use the brake pedal to create hydraulic pressure. Run the car if needed to have power assist. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted March 5, 2012 Author Share Posted March 5, 2012 The stuck piston is easier to remove when it's stil on the car. Block the one that moves and use the brake pedal to create hydraulic pressure. Run the car if needed to have power assist. Good to know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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