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wiring up a MSD 6a


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i recently picked up a different ignition for my project race car, so i have a free MSD CD box i can try out in the soob.

 

 

so, the question is, if you have it, how did you wire it up?

 

did you wire like this: (wire colors irrelevant, its a diagram for a dodge, but should be the same concept)

 

 

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also, does it work with the stock coil at all? im kinda giddy about it all and don't want to wait till i get enough cheddar for a proper coil if it works.

 

 

thanks again fellas. you guys are great!

Edited by maozebong
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What motor/year is it going on?

 

It should work fine with a stock can style coil, but I'm not sure you can use it on most Subaru distributors. Mine has an internal ignition module, which may work or may not, but I know Subaru issued a variety of distributors, so I'd do my homeowork. Have you called MSD?

 

If you get it going, please post results, I'm interested to know how it behaves on an older Subaru motor.

 

Josh

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I have one on my Brat...

 

post 1304 in this thread has my diagram... there's lots of other diagram posting there...

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=80021&highlight=MSD%2A&page=44

 

though It seems I have my disty wires reverse according to the official diagrams... don't know. it works well though....

 

here's the direct post link...

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=1042422&postcount=1304

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It just goes between the distributor /ignition module and coil so should work regardless.

Make sure you set the box to run on 4 cyl mode if it isn't already that way. I had to drill out the rivets on mine and open the box to get to the mode selection wires so I could solder some of them back together.

Wiring is pretty simple. The stock power and "ground" wires to the coil get run to the box instead through the small red and white wires. The black and orange go the the + and - on the coil. If your car has a tachometer hook up the wire to the "tach" plug on the MSD box.

 

I have one on my 85 V6 Ranger with the stock electronic distributor and EEC-IV ignition/emission control system. 85 was the last year with a carbed v6, and the carb has a screwy feedback system for emissions. A carburetor with a throttle position sensor, and electronic idle speed solenoid, then there are two engine temp sensors, and an oxygen sensor, all that it uses only to adjust spark timing. :rolleyes: Should have just made it fuel injected.

Anyway... my original point, it made a HUGE difference in the way it idles and revs through the power band.

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thank you everyone for the information, im going to cobble it together this weekend, and update.

 

i used to run one on my honda prelude and it really smoothed out the whole powerband, and made cold starts easier. it really helps especially at lower engine speeds when bogging was more likely, and giving it a bit more nuts where it would normally bog. but obd1 honda ignitions are stout and can easily support 3 times the stock power levels, so its coming off the honda and going on the roo!

 

 

subaru ignitions are really basic and the simple canister coil. i imagine with a good solid higher output coil paired with a capacitive discharge box, i bet it picks up a decent bit of nuts.

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There's a big vacuum canister (coffee can) that sits on top of the passenger side wheel well next to an array of half a dozen vacuum and solenoids. Zip tied it on top the canister. :D Been there for two years, hasn't moved yet! Don't think I have a pic. I can take one tomorrow.

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:lol:

 

 

when i had mine in my honda, i had it zip tied to the abs modulator/unit.

 

i think i might velcro mine down. when there is enough velcro on it, it can hold pretty damn well.

 

thanks for everything guys! im definitely going to put this bad boy in on my lunch break at work tomorrow.

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another after the fact update.

 

ive been running really lean lately due to a worn out fuel pump/vacuum leaks, and the MSD setup + .055 gapped plugs has brought out a bunch more power that i don't think its ever really had. the engine climbs through the rpms much smoother than before as well. the low-rpm area where the engine typically stumbles seems a bit more tolerant too, like the 2-3k rpm area.

 

im sure if i could get it to deliver some more fuel, id have even more power.

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