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I have always shied away from car dealers because they are usually the most expensive. I stopped at one today and they said they would probably be able to zero in on the problem in an hour or an hour and a half. Is this worth doing?

 

I have had a garage do my diagnostics up to this point. Problem is a switch over from a 2.5 to a 2.2 engine with emissions issues and CEL never goes off. Any thoughts on this?

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if your old engine had EGR and the new one doesn't, you're stuck with the cel and code. To further elaborate.....................

 

This happens when you install a 2.2 motor from a car that had been mated to a 5 speed, which won't have an EGR. If you install this 2.2 motor into a car that has an automatic transmission, it requires an EGR. With no hook up for the EGR, your stuck forever with a lit up CEL , which produces a code stating the EGR is not working.

 

Go to an auto parts store that will read your CEL code at no charge. That way you will know what the problem is. A dealer will prolly charge you $75 to read the code only, and do nothing to fix the car at that point.

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Yeah, get the code for the CEL from an auto parts store. Make sure you get the PXXXX code not what the clerk says is the problem. Post the code here and you will get lots of free help.

 

Dealers are probably not the best to deal with a 2.5 to 2.2 swap, independent Subaru shops would be a better choice, especially those that do that often.

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I just got back from Auto Zone where I had the man there run the code check for both the 2.2 and 2.5; same result.

 

PO106 (map sensor)

 

PO420 (cat. converter or O2 sensor?)

 

P1143 (undefined)

 

Anyone have guidance on the next step?

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P1143 Subaru Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Input

This is another MAP sensor code.

Likely a vacuum leak. Check the hoses that run over to the passenger side strut tower. There are two little "sensors" over there with vacuum hoses connected. The hoses run from the switching solenoid (the one with multiple hoses) to the engine and should hook up to the back side of the number three intake runner.

There is a diagram on the bottom of the hood showing where the hoses should go to. Make sure your hoses are routed to match that.

Also check the hoses for splits and dry rot. make sure they are firmly attached at both ends.

 

My guess is the P0420 code will go away once the MAP sensor codes are fixed.

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Thanks for the info. Chances are that J and J would have found anything obvious like this with all the hours they have spent on it. I may just go to the dealer and pay their $90 an hour to nail the problem down.

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dont let the dealer gess on your car find somone on here that actualy knows dealer sucks at diagnostics and like to just throw parts at it on your dime if you look here long enuff you will find answers dealer you will just spend money and cerate problems

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  • 2 weeks later...

They spent an hour on diagnosics. They came up with active problem codes for pressure sensor and cat converter. I am expecting to hear back from the original repair shop that I believe replaced that. It could be a short caused the pressure sensor to burn out.

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