Coyote Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 Hi every one, I'm having trouble with my 98 legacy wagon. After researching the forum boards I decided to pull the engine to replace the clutch, while it was out I checked the timing belt and replaced that also. Between advice found here and a haynes manual I got the belt replaced with the timing marks correct and the number of teeth between the marks correct. I put it all back together and fired it up...It starts fine, idles up to 2000 rpm and then stalls. any ideas on where the problem could be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 Check the stiff foot long hose on the passenger side that goes the the throttle body basically from under the air filter cover for lack of a better explanation. It's about an inch round. Often it looks like it's on and it isn't. And you can pull your hair out looking for the problem. It's NOT on top. And welcome to the USMB!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coyote Posted March 8, 2012 Author Share Posted March 8, 2012 Thanks for the help, I found it and that fixed it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 Yea. The first time that happens it's like WTF? It's easy to miss it not being connected. Glad it was simple to fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coyote Posted March 9, 2012 Author Share Posted March 9, 2012 now I have a new problem, the car runs great no hiccups idles smooth. drove it about six miles and noticed the temp gauge was too high for comfort so I shut it down and checked my fluid level. Fluids were up. I did notice that the cabin was freezing cold and i had the thermostat cranked up and the fan blasting,...no heat. Ideas? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 Search here for "burp" or "burping" there is even a video. Basically pull off the rad hose at the WP, reattach, fill engine with coolant through upper hose, attach it, top off rad, leave cap off. But search. Often I'll run whatever wheel is closest the rad cap up on a rhino ramp to make that the high point in the cooling system. 2.5's can be tough toburp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coyote Posted March 9, 2012 Author Share Posted March 9, 2012 cool, thanks for the info. I have a 2.2, do they also need to be burped? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 They usually aren't as picky. But following the burping for the 2.5 certainly won't hurt. OEM thermostat? Partly I ask due to quality, partly I ask because the OEM one is so much larger that folks tend to notice/question what they are doing and are less likely to get it in backwards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coyote Posted March 10, 2012 Author Share Posted March 10, 2012 not sure what the thermostat is, I havn't replaced it....yet. I also haven't had a chance to try the burping, maybe tomorrow. That just makes the most sense, not that I havn't had a thermostat stick for no apparent reason before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coyote Posted March 12, 2012 Author Share Posted March 12, 2012 I burped the coolant system and that was the last problem to fix. Thank you for your help, I'm back on the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 Cool. The 2.2's aren't nearly as bad to burp it seems but occasionally folks still do have a problem with one. Glad you're all wrapped up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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