Sloppy shifter questions: Just bushings, or linkage too?

[tehP]

The more I read about the shifter bushing/linkage replacement

job, the more confused I get.

There seems to be a number of versions depending on model/Mfg. date.

 

My car is a "bump roof" '96 Legacy Outback Wagon (B11, i belive) with 2.2l and 196k.

The Mfg. Date is 11/95, as per the door jam Subaru badge.

 

As mentioned in the previous post, I purchased 5 bushings.

Here's the parts diagram I got from the Subaru dealership in Queens.

 

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/42779/Gallery/Shufter_Part_Numbers.tiff

 

I bought bushings 4x Part# 35035AA030, and 1x #35035KA010

(circled on the diagram).

I also got a "cable return spring" though some sources say that my

model doesn't HAVE a spring... I mentioned this to the subaru parts guy

and he shrugged and said "you won't need it". It was $2 and i figured what the

hell.

 

I believe I may also need to replace the linkage; is that correct?

The guy at the Subaru parts department was pretty insistant that

I wouldn't need to replace the linkage, rather I just needed new

bushings. But after seeing photos in this thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=113480&highlight=shifter+bushings&page=2

(of a nearly identical model, year, and mileage) and his GNARLY looking linkage

 

The shifter is SO sloppy my wife has a very difficult time driving the car,

which we can't have. Finding third gear is nearly impossible for her she drives around town in 2nd LOL.

I really, really don't want to have to do this job more than once.

As it is now I work late at night; I'm on the street in Brooklyn, NY and

i'm paranoid somebody is gonna hit my car while I'm under it.

 

So, four questions.

1) Should I replace my linkage, along with the bushings I bought?

2) What is the correct part number? (My sheet designates the linkage as (35046*B.....)

35047AC030

That's what I'm lead to belive based upon the diagram supplied by Subaru.

I called a different Sub dealer in brooklyn with a linkage part number 35047AC010

and she immediately said I was wrong and gave me a "different" part number

35047AC030.

3) Do I also need bushings "35035F" (cirled blue on diagram), or are they included with the linkage?

4) Should I pickup any other parts/bushings/nuts/bolts etc when I go to Subaru this am?

The official Subaru of America parts page doesn't even LIST the linkage;

when I plug in the part number it warns me that 'this part may not fit your vehicle'

 

 

THANKS guys. This forum has saved me $100s of dollars already. Probably closer to $1000s.

I LOVE my new (to me) Subaru <3 and I'm having a blast learning about it.

I've been daydrearming of walking away from the IT business and going to Mechanic's

school.

[Olnick]

The more I read about the shifter bushing/linkage replacement

job, the more confused I get.

There seems to be a number of versions depending on model/Mfg. date.

 

I also got a "cable return spring" though some sources say that my

model doesn't HAVE a spring...

 

1) Should I replace my linkage, along with the bushings I bought?

 

 

It is confusing--Subaru changed the linkage design several times over the years. But I'm pretty sure yours is just like mine ('95 Legacy L) and that is what is shown in the drawing you posted.

 

You should have the spring (#35043) too. Get under the car and look at the large washer (shown as #35082B)--there's an "ear" with a hole that the spring hooks into. Other side hooks to an ear on the linkage IIRC.

 

I really doubt that you need to replace the linkage. Again, get under the car and check out the condition of yours before you go buying a new one.

 

You probably do not need the shift rod bushings (there are two, one on each side: #35035A)--mine were okay when I checked them.

 

Suggest you use the "search" function here on USMB. There's a lot of discussion from the past that may be helpful to you.

 

Good luck.

[tehP]

Cool, thanks for the reply.

Yes, I have spent many hours reading nearly every article

I could find on shifter linkages - both on this board and the internet abroad.

But like I said, the result was I was left with more questions than I had before I started.

Because of the variation in the parts, and the fact that everyone else seems confused about it as well (including a few Subaru mechanics I've spoken with) led me to this post.

I really do try to be self-sufficient.

But thanks for taking the time to reply.

 

I didn't realize I could see the stupid linkage without tearing it all apart though, so that's a huge help all by itself.

 

I ended up finding the linkage nearby in NJ yesterday, but I can return it if mine is okay.. Here's hoping. These parts aren't cheap!

 

Hopefully the weather will be as nice as it supposed to be. It didn't get above 40 today, and at that temp my fingers start to get swollen from the cold.

I'd give my left nut for a heated garage to work in... Working on the street is cold and stressful

 

Thanks again. I'll post here tomorrow if I get myself into trouble

[Fairtax4me]

Finding the correct info that applies to your specific vehicle is a bit difficult. As Olnick said there were several variations of the shift linkage, and nobody seems to know where/when the changes were made.

But there were two main types, one that's servicable and has 2 bolts that to through to hold the bushings, and another that is non-servicable that has a pin cold punched in place. If you get a bolt from one of the servicable types (junkyard) the pin can be cut and knocked out, and the bolt will fit in its place thus making it servicable.

The entire linkage does not have to be removed, once it's loose from the transmission end, which is the most difficult part because there isn't much room to swing a BFhammer under the car, the rear bolt on the flex section can be removed and that part will slide off. Whats left of the old bushings can be removed from the linkage rod with a screwdriver. The new bushings fit in easily and the flex section of the linkage can be replaced or modified, whichever suits you.

[Olnick]

I really do try to be self-sufficient.

But thanks for taking the time to reply.

 

I'll post here tomorrow if I get myself into trouble

 

You're certainly welcome, tehP. I respect anyone who tries to research a problem before jumping in! And folks here on the board want to offer help if they can--so "ask away" on the questions.

 

Good luck and be careful. I feel for you working on a city street in the cold!

[jarl]

It can't be that difficult to find the gears, is it?

 

...just like a Ferrari H gate

 

Good luck with the surgery

PD: Found the above video after looking at

 

BTW: You DO have the FSM for your car, right?

Edited March 12, 2012 by jarl
Avoid creating a new post...

[Red92]

It can't be that difficult to find the gears, is it?

 

Haha. My '94 is *almost* that bad.

 

I'm debating what to do though... because despite the fact that every gear feels like neutral, I actually don't have any problem shifting it and neither do the other people who drive my car. The centering spring is still good and strong, and it doesn't rattle or anything. So is it worth the effort to fix it? Dunno.

[Olnick]

So is it worth the effort to fix it? Dunno.

 

To each his own, Red! All I can say is my '95 Legacy "felt like new" when I replaced the bushings. It's a great feeling.

[Pooparu]

Sloppy seconds questions:...

[tehP]

Just wanted to give an update on my shifter.

 

The TL/DR version of below is simply "I was sold the wrong linkage, tore mine apart and replaced the all of the bushings, and re-assembled the whole shooting match with nuts and bolts instead of the factory spring pins and rivet".

 

 

This post details my struggle, and lists all Subaru part numbers

as well as some photos.

I simply wanted to share my struggles and hopefully save somebody

a little pain, and the $60 of purchasing the incorrect linkage.

 

Here's my linkage on top, and the new one on the bottom. Ugh.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/42779/Gallery/right%20vs%20wrong.jpg

 

I didn't make a full "walkthrough" as an excellent one by "doc526" exists here:

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=113480&highlight=shifter+bushings

Learn it live it love it. Make SURE you have a 10" socket extension and the proper

punches BEFORE you begin.

=======

Yes, it was a *************** to get this job done.

 

**If your linkage has a "neutral return spring" mount hole

like mine, your replacement linkage part number is 35047AC010.

 

If I had a bottle jack/transmission stand/similar (and a 14mm deep socket…) I ABSOLUTELY would

dropped/moved the transmission. Dropping the tranny will give you a straight shot at the spring pins.

That's the only hard part about this stupid job.

 

Borrowed ramps from the building super. Drove car up on ramps.

Chalked wheels. Got comfy under the ***************.

Working on the street, I put cardboard down under all the "trouble" areas,

as I was certain I'd inevitably need to use large amounts of penetrating oil.

I was right about that! Plus lying on cardboard is nicer than 40 degree

pavement.

I was smart enough to start shooting the linkage with PB Blaster the week before

I began this project. My linkage was basically FUSED to the transmission so try

to focus some at that joint.

 

Again, here's the hard part.

One cannot get a straight shot with a punch at the spring pins. It is impossible as

your transmission is in the way.

This is where you should ABSOLUTELY drop the transmission enough to get in there.

 

I unfortunately had two issues preventing me from doing this; 1, I didn't have a 14mm deep socket.

I could un-button all but ONE of the transmission mount bolts (!). Second, I didn't

have a real secure or smart way (transmission table or bottle jack) to support the transmission. A stack of 2x4 chunks

isn't the smartest or sefest, Plus the *************** is heavy to shove back into place. So take it from

me and don't do it that way.

But using my method, I was able to nudge the transmission about 1/2", enough

for slightly cleaner access to the pins.

Using a motley assemblage of a punch, socket, universal socket joint,

and a 10" socket extension (held together with electrical tape) I was able

to hammer the piece of ************ pins out. Again, read doc526's walkthrough for a description

of the punch setup.

Once the pins were popping out the top enough to get a vicegrips on, I was able

to negociate a smaller one in there, clamp down, and pound on IT with a socket

extension to pop the pins.

There are two spring pins, one nested inside of another. You have to use the smaller

punch to knock the little one out first. Then the larger punch for the second, bigger pin.

 

I ended up having to use a torch on the transmission shaft the linkage

sits upon. After a good 30 minutes of hammering on that with a 5lb drilling

mall and a big concrete chisel, I was able to get the old linkage off.

Luckily it's a tough part so I didn't bang it up too bad.

Here it is just before the last pin was knocked out:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/42779/Gallery/linkage_mount.jpg

 

Here's the gnarly old bushings:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/42779/Gallery/Old%20plus%20bushings.jpg

 

I spent nearly an hour cleaning the shifter arm and all of related bits.

I re-greased the bits which needed grease. Make sure you do this.

This is also the time to replaced the 4 other bushings.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/42779/Gallery/Shufter_Part_Numbers.tiff

 

Inside the shifter assembly, I removed the wire-clamp, pulled the shaft it out of

the rubber boot and replaced the big white bushing , #35035KA010

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/42779/Gallery/shift_bushing.jpg

Lots of grease. Buttoned it up and cleaned everything.

I didn't take photos of this for some reason

 

Much to my amusement, the Subaru dealership had sold me the incorrect

linkage. Luckily, I threw out the plastic baggie it came in so they won't let

me return the $60 part.

The internal bushings were all shot causing a huge amount of slop.

 

I'm nearly positive the way to determine WHICH linkage part # you need is simply based

upon whether yours is equipped with the "neutral return" spring or not.

This spring attaches to a washer with a tang and to a hole the linkage.

My spring was missing of course, but I was wise enough to order a new one

just in case.

 

 

Here's how I rebuilt my linkage. It took some time and I had PLANNED

on replacing it anyway. If I had to do it all over again I would STILL replace

the part rather than rebuild the old one, but it isn't necessary. A bit of time

will save you a $60 pain in the rump roast part.

 

I cut the head off the rivet holding the mess together (see photo link below) with my Dremel+cutoff wheel.

A trip to the hardware store later,

I had a 3" 5/8" bolt, a 2.5" 3/8" bolt, two nuts, two nylon lock nuts, four flat

washers and four lockwashers. I used locktite on the bolts too. I realize it's total

overkill but I'll be damned if I'll have those stupid bolts backing out and flying off while

my wife is driving on the Brooklyn Queens Expressway, dodging tractor trailers and taxicabs

without the luxury of "changing gears".

 

The 3" 5/8" bolt rig replaced the rivet. The 2.5" 3/8" bolt rig replaced the spring pin ************fest. I believe

I cut down both bolts to fit a bit better with the Dremel+cutoff wheel.

I strongly recommend you do the same in case you have to pull yours out for any reason.

Which I of course had to do after assembling something incorrectly! My god If I would've

had to get those spring pins out again I think I would've lost it.

Heres a photo of the linkage indicating the rivet and the spring mount hole.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/42779/Gallery/Linkage_rivet.jpg

 

Got it all back together - feels 100% better. Something STILL isn't quite right as it

doesn't "stay" in first or second gears. But at least the stick returns to neutral.

My wife can drive the car now

And I haven't missed 5th gear/hit 3rd since. SO I think i'm in good shape.

Pretty sure I simply put the big washer with tang that the "neutral return spring" attaches

to back on incorrectly - it's under quite a lot of spring pressure at all times.

But I haven't had the heart to climb back under the ***************

 

Here's the correct parts diagram taken from Opposed Forces.com (http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_44/manipulation/manual_gear_shift_system/illustration_1/).

I've circled the parts I replaced.

 

Full part numbers: bushing #35035A in diagram = subaru part number

35035AA030 "Sport Bushings" - Buy 4 of these.

44044AA010 "Spring" - Neutral return spring.

 

 

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/42779/Gallery/Shufter_Part_Numbers.tiff

 

This is a two hour job if you 1) move the tranny and 2) do your homework and have the right parts on hand.

I could only nudge #1 and as hard as I tried, I failed at #2. Luckily I was able to make it work.

 

=======

 

Since this job, we succesfully drove our "new" '96 Subaru from Brooklyn NY to my Mother in law's in

Rockville Md, outside of Washington DC.

I did this job, as well as bled the brake system/changed brake fluid. She also received a new

stereo (bluetooth hand free calling FTW) as well as front speakers! Looks pretty good.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/42779/Gallery/stereo.jpg

That cable coming out is the microphone for the hand free calling setup. Gonna re-route it up the

vents or something.

 

It's about a 400 mile drive and the car performed FLAWLESSLY.

I was very impressed. My gas mileage consistently improved, too; first tank was 22mpg; second was 24.5

and the last was 26.5!

Plus we brought this guy home

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/42779/Gallery/nico%202.jpg

Having a car allowed us to pickup the dog outside Philly on our way

back from DC. sure beats AmTrak or a grayhound.

Since we got home I did a SeaFoam "crankcase" treatment via the PCV valve (with some in the gas).

She was starting to idle a bit rough, and for some reason wouldn't drop below ~1k RPM. The SeaFoam

totally fixed my idle and it feels/sounds great.

It poured out SO MUCH white smoke it was like a goddamn smokescreen! I took it on Ocean Parkway, a sort

of mini-expressway, and drove at high speed. The drivers behind had to change lanes to see! This ended after

5 mins and the car has been happy since.

While I was pulling vacuum hoses to dump the juice in I found the inside of the vacujm hoses are deteriorating!

Black rubber gunk has collected in those hoses, which I believe is greatly restricting airflow.

I cleaned / sprayed them out the best I could and re-assembled. So I'll be replacing those hoses.

 

I've already got ~1500 miles on her since I bought it, so I'll be changing the oil again.

Next up : struts in front and back, as well as the "power steering gear boot" on the driver's side.

Got a part on the way. I don't think I need to replace the tie rod.

After that I'm gonna take her in for a front end alignment. It's actually really great in terms of alignment

but has a SLIGHT pull to the left. So that will be a good time do do it - figure it will need

it after I pull that tie rod/replace the struts!

 

Thanks and please let me know if you have any questions about any of this. I'm by no means

a master mechanic but I'm learning.

[1-3-2-4]

Question is it room enough to use a air hammer on the linkage? my car has a spring return so mine should be the part number 35047AC030.

[Fairtax4me]

Which part? I used one to knock the roll pin loose.

[1-3-2-4]

to take off the whole linkage the pins I'm not too concerned about it's about getting the linkage off

[Fairtax4me]

PB blaster. Vice grips. Clamp the vice grips on and twist after the PB has soaked in for a while. Once it breaks loose you should be able to twist it off, smack the side of the vice grips with a hammer if it needs persuasion.

[tehP]

to take off the whole linkage the pins I'm not too concerned about it's about getting the linkage off

 

I found the Pins to be the hard part.

The linkage wasn't bad. Again, PB blaster applied liberally starting a few nights before helps.

I got mine off with a ball joint puller and a ball peen hammer.

 

If you pull the transmission down, you could certainly get an air hammer in there i'd expect.

[1-3-2-4]

well I hope so I have lots of koil here.

[1-3-2-4]

I got subarupartsforyou.com AKA (Dan perkins Subaru) to make a link for this shifter part # 35047AC010 it's under ZZ special order, shows as a impreza part number and that it's not in stock but to my surprise they just sent me a email that it's ready to be picked up so I'm going to head out to go get it.