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Hoooooo boy. Internal engine carnage!!!


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Is this the one that had the oil pressure light on? ( I might be thinking of the wrong person)

 

The crank can probably be undersized and reused with the proper size bearings. Take ot to a machine shop and ask what they would do. Sometimes it can just be polished out and be fine. Might be cheaper to get a good used crank though.

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20120310_200135.jpg

 

Rod bearings were disintegrated. Wondering if the crank/rods are even salvageable at this point?

 

I'm going to split my other block soon, but it felt just as crunchy :(

 

 

NOT HAPPY.

 

I doubt that the one rod journal can even be ground out. I bet the damage is over .050 deep.

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Well this one is thrashed too. Between the 2 though, I should have a good engine after I find out if either crank can be saved and/or buy a good crank.

 

Anyone have a good 2.5 crank? :clap:

 

The second engine completely lost the #3 rod bearing and beat the hell out of the case. Probably salvageable, but the first case was nearly perfect. Going to definitely be a hodge podge like everything else, lol.

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Yikes! That's no good :(

When I tear down my 25D, that's now what I'm expecting to see.

 

Rockauto has a 25D crankshaft for $205 with a core charge of $100. Might be worth it if yours is beyond machining.

 

Yeah, I may have found a good one from someone on here. I'll be taking both cranks, the bad case, and all the rods down to the machine shop. May be welding up some cool garage art out of all the destroyed goods.:headbang:

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Did you check the camshafts? The shiny stuff has the bad habit of traveling all around the engine...

 

One set of heads/cams had some scarring. The other looks like it was a quick painful death from the sump getting punctured, and the heads are pristine.

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I use to grind cranks many moons ago ,and sometimes on very expensive cranks (tractors) customers would have journals welded back up to try and save the crank. But it seemed more often than not it would warp the crank so badly that it was not usable( or there would be to many inclusions in the weld).

Is this a common / reliable method now?

 

Did some reading online , and apparently if done right , it works well.

Edited by Robert Harik
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