SoobieDoo Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 Hey guys: I've been away for a while, but now could use some diagnosis help for my car. I have a '86 GL Wagon, with EJ swap and it's been incredibly reliable...........until recent. Just after filling the tank (of course ) the car would idle for a short time only, then sputter and die. Instantly when I tried to give it gas. I know the first thing that I should have done is to read the ECM codes, but never hooked it up to the check engine light. I realize that may need to be done to figure this one out. I suspected the fuel filter or pump, so pulled the line from engine compartment and turned on the key to check for pressure. I did get some flow..........but little more than a trickle. I expected much more pressure than that, so replaced the filter. No Go. I checked and do have power at the pump's connector, but couldn't hear any noise from it, even with my ear just inches away. By the way, this is an oem FI pump. I know that it was whisper quiet compared to my old aftermarket one, but silent? Is there a better way to test the pump, is the pressure described sound normal, or am I barking up the wrong tree entirely. MAF test? Is there another light I can hook up to get ECM codes and avoid pulling the dash yet? Thanks in advance for any help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 The pump only comes on for a few seconds after you turn the key to run position, then shuts off if the engine isn't turning. That is if you wired in the fuel pump relay and run it using the ECU. If you have the test mode connectors, you can plug them together and the ECU will cycle the pump on and off. You should have a lot more than a trickle when you turn the key on, fuel should hose out of there. I've had good luck with the $100 F-150 frame rail mounted high pressure pumps from the 80's EFI trucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobieDoo Posted March 12, 2012 Author Share Posted March 12, 2012 The pump only comes on for a few seconds after you turn the key to run position, then shuts off if the engine isn't turning. That is if you wired in the fuel pump relay and run it using the ECU. If you have the test mode connectors, you can plug them together and the ECU will cycle the pump on and off. You should have a lot more than a trickle when you turn the key on, fuel should hose out of there. I've had good luck with the $100 F-150 frame rail mounted high pressure pumps from the 80's EFI trucks. Right on, very helpful! Napa was telling me that the oem pump only put out like 3-5 psi, but we both thought that was wrong. I do have test conn. working, so that may help. I was holding the line into an empty gas can when my wife turned on the key, so I don't think time was an issue. Maybe more than a trickle..............but definitely low flow. I seem to remember running out of gas this summer, having to purge the line of air, and having gas shoot out forcefully enough to hit the radiator. I will check out the ford pumps too..................remembered that from the engine swap, but brain farted at Napa. Any others think it's fuel delivery? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desertsubaru Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 Sounds like a fuel problem. 3 to 5 pounds is for a carb not FI. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobieDoo Posted March 12, 2012 Author Share Posted March 12, 2012 Sounds like a fuel problem. 3 to 5 pounds is for a carb not FI. Yet, I told him MPFI! I found the same searching their website myself. Select FI engine, and get carb pumps too. I'm starting in on it now...........will keep you all updated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobieDoo Posted March 13, 2012 Author Share Posted March 13, 2012 Well, I replaced the pump with one from a F350, but same symptoms. Oddly, I'm only getting 9.3V at the connector, with the battery fully charged at 13V, with the key on. I was under the impression that the relay would only turn on the pump for a few seconds with the key on. The pump is only working while cranking, though maybe at a diminished rate due to low voltage. Unfortunately, I've never been able to locate the relay to bypass it...........California emmision special POS! Other symptoms are now a strong smell of gas, and no flow through the return line. I know the return should have good flow, so what's up with that? This problem has me puzzled and frustrated..........especially since my wife is now driving a carbed Bronco over an hour each way to work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott in Bellingham Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 good to see your still alive :cool: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobieDoo Posted March 13, 2012 Author Share Posted March 13, 2012 Hiya Scott, good to hear from you! I am alive, at least, though the red wagon sure isn't. First major breakdown after the EJ swap.........not too bad really. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobieDoo Posted March 13, 2012 Author Share Posted March 13, 2012 I'm really suspecting the FP relay, because of the symptoms, so will try and locate that now. If I can't find it, I'll try hooking up a spare battery directly to the pump to see if that's it. Can always run wire all the way back from the EJ relay............just don't wanna. Tried unplugging the cam and maf sensors, and swapped the fuel pressure stabilizer, to no effect. Thoughts!?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobieDoo Posted March 14, 2012 Author Share Posted March 14, 2012 (edited) Never mind............I'm bypassing the old relay (wherever it is). Apparently no one here knows, and I've searched and checked all the usual places for it, but being a Cali car it must be different. Not worth it! Edited March 15, 2012 by SoobieDoo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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