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factory cruise control 87 ea82t?


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so ive searched and searched but didnt get the info i need.

 

first where does the cc unit get the vss signal? tach signal?

 

and what other inputs does it need to operate?

 

wheres the fuse? vacuum lines?

 

if someone could explain the system to me i can figure out the problem

(i know how cruise works i just need to know where the components are located, what they do and if they are needed for operation )

 

pictures would be nice but not necessary

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Steering wheel. With the on off button right under the rear defrost(also inop.)

 

The lights come on on the dash but I hear nothing when I hit set.

I know the trany is nOt correct for the car and is not wired up

The speedo works but no reverse lights or 4wd light.

 

Does it need the reverse light hooked up to work?

 

And I also have a trip computer

Which doesn't seem to be accurate at all.

Edited by AKghandi
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Start by checking the buttons.

 

Buttons for the "set" and "resume" are fed power by the horn circuit. Check the horn? does it work?

 

Find the Black, 3 prong connector under the column, with the horn wire, and the 2 wires for the cruise buttons. Check for 12v on the green wire for the horn. then check that 12v is present on the other wires when you press the respective buttons. This 12v makes the signal....If the horn works, but the buttons don't send through power, it could be a bad slipring in the column, not letting power from the buttons through.

 

 

If that checks out...move on to the pedal switches. Now, what you will notice, is that there are 2 switches on the brake pedal. One for the brake lights, and another that is part of the cruise.

 

The one for the brake lights is pretty easy, as long as the brake lights aren't on normally this is fine. Brake lights on, cancels cruise.

 

The other brake switch, and the one on the clutch are in a loop. Signal comes from the CCU (cruise box) to the brake switch, through it, to the clutch switch, and then back to the CCU. If either switch is open (from misadjustment or faulty) the loop is broken.....cancels cruise. Adjust them so they are closed when the pedals are up.

 

 

If that all works.......may want to test the Vac pump......report back tonight, and I can dig out the FSM with some actuall wire colors

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Sweets thanks Gloyale

I'll be sure to go check all that

The buttons on the steering wheel are pretty worn and from what I can tell the car was well cared for until the guy I got it from got it. He did all kinds of stupid things I've been working to correct

Like he switched the PB 5spd with a d/r 5spd and he never hooked any of the wires up which is what I'm thinking killed my cruise.

 

 

Any and all fsm wiring diagrams for 87 would be great then I can sort out my cruise reverse light 4wd light and my rear defrost.

 

As for the vacuum pump would I hear it when I turn on the car or is it only when I hit set?

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Like he switched the PB 5spd with a d/r 5spd and he never hooked any of the wires up which is what I'm thinking killed my cruise.

 

 

Any and all fsm wiring diagrams for 87 would be great then I can sort out my cruise reverse light 4wd light and my rear defrost.

 

As for the vacuum pump would I hear it when I turn on the car or is it only when I hit set?

 

I don't think the trans wires not hooked up would affect the cruise. (maybe in a Auto-manual conversion, but not just S/R to D/R 5spd.

 

Vaccum pump would on;y run when you hit set.

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So I checked the buttons on the steering wheel they didn't put 12v but they were making connection I might replace the buttons inside with some from RadioShack .

 

The switches on the pedals are working so I guess that just leaves the vacuum system if someone knows how the vac lines are routed that would be helpful

I'm going to pull the vac pump and put 12v to I and see if it works later.

 

In other news I hooked up the trans so my 4wd light and reverse light works

There was another plug that I couldn't find a home for and it only has 6v going to it. Any idea what that might be?

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So I checked the buttons on the steering wheel they didn't put 12v but they were making connection I might replace the buttons inside with some from RadioShack .

 

The switches on the pedals are working so I guess that just leaves the vacuum system if someone knows how the vac lines are routed that would be helpful

I'm going to pull the vac pump and put 12v to I and see if it works later.

 

Wait, if there's not 12v coming through, the switch isn't working. don't just go pullin stuff out and guessing, cruise systems are excellent for practicing computer controled system diagnosis.

 

Does the green wire have 12v? that's the horn wire. 12v goes out the the horn, through it, then up to the column. When you hit the horn it grounds that wire....driving volts low and sounding the horn. But when you aren't hitting the horn, this wire has 12v (minus the resitance of the horn). This is the source of the voltage for signal out to the cruise. Diodes in the cruise unit keep the horn from sounding when you hit the buttons. That's right, the horn is inline to the cruise circuit. This setup is to minmize the number of sliprings in the steering wheel.

 

Anyway, so just check for 12v on the horn wire going in, and 12v out on the other 2 wires (yellow and white something??) you can pull the steering wheel pad and check for voltages at the switch. If you have power at the switches but not through to the connectors, then the slipring is bad. Then you do have to pull the whole wheel, (easy with a puller)

 

 

In other news I hooked up the trans so my 4wd light and reverse light works

There was another plug that I couldn't find a home for and it only has 6v going to it. Any idea what that might be?

 

If you mean at the body to trans wiring connection that would be the neutral switch. If your D/R came from a carbed car it won't have it.

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The switches on the steering wheel give 12v for just a second then it drops off(I should have mentioned that before) so I'm going to fix them when I get the chance.

 

As for the slip ring I already pulled it apart and cleaned and dio greased it

It's working perfectly. I had the steering wheel off a while ago to replace the ignition so it just pops off.

 

THe switch on the steering wheel is simple I've had it apart already. It looks like generic on off micro buttons

 

 

And yes the trans is from a carbed 87 wagon so that plug shouldn't Matter then.

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I just went and rechecked the switches and they are working properly( had my voltmeter on the wrong setting :banghead:)

 

So that's not it.

 

I wonder if the vacuum pump would freeze up if it was not used for a long time.

I'll pull it off tomorrow and check it.

 

If the pump isn't the issue it could be the control unit.

Wheres it at?

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The speedo works and the trip computer dOes give readings. Which I'm pretty sure are wrong

 

I highly doubt my average sped is 3mph. Considering the immense weight of my right foot.

 

This could point to a problem in the VSS even though the speedo still works.

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Yeah I was thinking that too. I wonder how hard it is to pull out and rebuild(I'm very good at rebuilding electric components)

 

Are you getting a code for VSS? If not then it's probably working. might just be the signal not getting to the cruise box.

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So I fixed it. The pumP was frozen. I Took it out put 12v to it and taped it with a wrench and bam. Came back to life I now have working cruise Control!!

 

Thanks gloyale for your help. I hope this thread becomes useful to someone.

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